BogMonster

I gave up naming vehicles when I was about six But it is definitely female as it costs money, screaming at it is counter productive, and it usually doesn't do what you wanted it to do when it most matters

Early field tests prove that weight alone does not make a good ground anchor (Yes I know, glass houses, stones!!! )

BFG MT's, if the roads look like those pictures

Yep, man in bellhousing with hammer he banging to say buy new flex plate TC's one is spectacularly f***ed, usually they just break around the centre boss.

Get it from Ashcrofts, its a hell of a lot cheaper than getting one from Land Rover! Last one we needed at work I ordered from Dave because it had been on back order for months, and then finding out it was about 1/2 the price was a pleasant surprise too!

The light is merely an indicator to show when the sensor is broken Change the sensor, or do away with it... 99% likely to be a dud sensor.

I get about 17 on a run but the road conditions here (windy, hilly and loose gravel!) are less than ideal for economy - I should think 20 would be achievable on tarmac roads on a steady run. Yes the D2 V8 uses the Thor engine, the engine ECU controls both fuelling and ignition. Never had an issue with any of the electrickery on mine, which is more than you can say about most Td5s after six and a half years.

I have never seen one break like that either, usually the four rivet things that hold the whole thing together let go and the front and rear bits of the centre separate spraying springs and stuff all over the place. Abusive driver I reckon

Bear in mind that the 99> Defenders were produced as a 300Tdi in limited numbers for the export market right up to end of 06MY so you could actually do it with all original factory parts if you wanted to It would be a fair amount of work but is certainly doable.

You should always finish off with a bar or torque wrench as rattle guns can be very inconsistent! I find what you described happens on 8 spokes too, so after going round the nuts to a torque of "1 grunt on a 3 foot bar" I go round them again and check they are still all to that torque, usually only get another 1/4 turn on each at most.

I agree - its what I use on all locks, car, house and padlock. Messy but by far the best

Well my 2p is that in about 10 years Norton is the only one that hasn't let me down and consistently picks up viruses, though I agree it uses far too much PC resources. I had AVG free installed on a computer at work for a few months, always kept up to date, and when the company IT people came round to check it over they said it had 3 different worm viruses on it which AVG had not even noticed so they put Norton back on! I can only hope the paid version of AVG is better than the free one... the increase in cost of Norton plus the fact that it is a resource hog means that when my laptop's copy of Norton 2006 (the last version that didn't use TOO much of your computer) expires in a couple of weeks, I am going to have to do something else because it will no longer let me renew the subscription - don't know why but it says I need a new "system key" or something, and I don't have anything apart from the key that it came with. Installing Norton 360 would make the laptop too slow so I can't use that.

I think it is an excellent idea Could also include Coopers/Crosland filter numbers, Lockheed brake pads etc etc.

Never drink while you work The rum comes afterwards

Difflock used to do them too but yes - I have a double ended one (32mm one end, 36mm the other) which I bought from Halfords last time I was over - the 36mm end fits Td5s and later V8s.

Yes I think you will have a new collection of rivets and springs for the mantlepiece when you get in there

LR4x4's new anti-spam device. Boom

I have no experience of overdrives so I will bow to others on that, I just know what usually breaks on vehicles here, there ain't a lot of use for an overdrive in this part of the world

I'd still bet on the clutch centre. I saw one the other day which transmitted a minimal amount of drive and when out of the vehicle it felt OK (i.e. you couldn't spin the splines with your fingers and there wasn't the usual pile of rivets and springs in the bellhousing) but when the driven plate was put onto the mainshaft and turned forcefully by hand with the box in gear, it just slipped. I don't think they make Tdi clutches like they used to. The same could be said of 300Tdi brake servos too I'd recommend changing the whole clutch (pressure plate, driven plate, bearing, and probably the fork too unless it's a Hensonite version) if in any doubt.

I think the four day week at the factory speaks for itself

I have my Parrot in the Ranger which is OK on smooth roads but you struggle to hear the other person when rattling along rough gravel where there is more background noise, and I think it would struggle in a Tdi Defender so I haven't bothered with one in the 110. I was going to put another one in the Fairy but I don't use the phone much in the garage...

I read something once that went something like "ever since they invented boy bands you can never judge a man's wallet by the state of his clothes" and it is so right I usually look scruffy and slightly grubby but on a quick tally I think I have bought five new vehicles in the last 12 years so I would be peesed orf if somebody took that attitude with me!!! Thankfully my 'local dealer' is a fine chap

My guess would be the centre of the clutch. I don't think the "130 clutch plate" adds anything other than a slightly wider chunk of friction material, I think it still has the same crappy fall-to-bits centre.

Funny how it is always really easy to spot somebody who really knows what he is talking about... Good post Ian

Prices from £445 exchange for an R380 http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_2.html