BogMonster

Welcome Porny's profile here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showuser=114 if you want to send him a PM.

Yes you could do that but doing it the other way is not really a hard job, it takes about 5 min to reprogram injector grades with a Testbook, can't say I have tried it with a Nanocommie. Certainly a lot quicker than changing 2 sets of injectors over

USB memory stick for me too, like a CD player only it doesn't skip and like an Ipod only it doesn't get nicked

Ideally you want the right age engine for the age of vehicle i.e. 1999-2001 model year or 2002-2006 model year as they are slightly different. You will need a computer to put the injector grades from the new engine into the ECU, even if you change the engine ECU you will still need the computer because then you will need to resync the alarm code. Talk to Porny on here he's the man

The second one of the two. We pay a fair amount for a dedicated server from Invision and it should be more than up to the job but there seems to be little progress with sorting the problem out. The mod/admin team are not at all happy with this and if it does not improve pretty darned sharpish I would be in favour of moving it elsewhere though I am sure that will unfortunately come with a cost penalty

Petzl Tikka for me too - got 3 of them, absolutely brilliant working on and around a vehicle though not much good for hunting I guess! I keep one in each vehicle as there is absolutely nothing better if you need to change a puncture in the dark where there is no ambient light, and they provide a nice spread of light for walking in the dark too, unlike the cheap LED headtorches which I have had and abandoned. Are these "LED Lensers" really 50 x as bright as a regular torch? How would they compare to, say, the 12 volt 2 million candlepower one I have which uses a 55w spotlight bulb? Great torch (range of hundreds of yards) but the rechargeable battery only lasts about 15 min and then needs about 6 hours on charge however it probably really is "50x brighter than a regular torch"! £50+ seems like a lot of money for a torch but I would probably get one if it was a good 'un A LED conversion for my big Maglite would be great B)

Perhaps NFU stands for No F Use I doubt you would get anybody with half an ounce of sense to certify that a conversion which they hadn't done was safe because the liability would pass straight back to them in the event of anything happening and it really wouldn't be worth that for the 20 quid they might make out of it... if its just a paperwork exercise then it isn't worth the paper its written on anyway!

They are "OK" but that is all. The XPC which is fitted to Defenders these days lasts for a fairly average amount of time, has average puncture resistance, very average grip on road, no grip at all off road and is above averagely expensive! Much the same can be said of the rest of the range, which is pretty restricted and the largest size is 235/85R16 which is about as much good as a tow rope woven out of damp Weetabix around here. I knew somebody who had those LTXs once and he said on several occasions that they lasted really well but they were so hard riding he wished the damn things would wear out so he could throw them away and get something else! Probably fine if you have smooth roads and want good mileage out of them but not for rough roads!

I use 265/75R16 BFG MTs on my 110 fitted on Freestyle alloys which are the same size and offset as Disco steels and they don't rub anywhere.

Yes come on Barker pull yer ruddy finger out

I had forgotten about that Anybody got a spare 6mm spade lying around they don't want? I like the look of the Mk3 X-Anchor, just been looking at Si's website.

Er ... yeah ... my Kittygripper has done a bit of depth sounding for hidden rocks too so I can confirm that it is an issue I don't think any plough anchor would take the full force of a winch on the tip of the blade and not bend/break because that isn't the way they are supposed to be used.

I'd delete the whole bluddy lot and see what comes back, thats usually what I do as with a list like that 90% of them are complete cock! Open load probably means open circuit i.e. disconnected. Clear them all, go for a drive and see if any come back. If they don't, maybe check it after a week but otherwise don't worry about the ones that don't reappear! I have regularly seen Td5s which claim they have open circuits on all 5 injectors but they run better than they ought to in that condition....!

They are (I have BFGs on the Discovery and Gen AT2s on the Ranger) but to be honest and IMVHO the AT2 is 95% as good for rather less than 95% of the price, that's what I will be putting on my Discovery next time round as I can't see the sense in spending what will probably be an extra £100 on a set of tyres.

Still Chawton White. I forget when it started but probably around the start of the Td5s (1999) and ran to 06/07 somewhere

I would guess about 3ft but can measure if required...

I like Bowyer's Bikini too (ooer) similar to the one I have on my Milemarker but it looks better than mine.

You can get them quite tight with a 3ft bar and some cussing, can't you

No. Perfick speling is not required, and if I spent my time being really picky I would never get any work done!

If you want something economical that will get you out of a hole you could do a lot worse than a hand winch - I have a T-Max version (there are others including the original Tirfor though that is expensive) and while I would never bin my hydraulic winch it actually works well its just hard work. Towball winches are a mixed bag. Bowyer's ones look ok, I had a cheapo version once and it was carp, supposed to do 15000kg rolling load, maybe it would shift 15 tons on greased ball bearings on an ice rink but it broke the first time I used it in anger pulling a fraction of that!

HW45 unit duly ordered from AIE, 10.0hp / 41cfm / 270L should keep an adequate supply of puff for a while The HW16 was quite a bit more expensive than SIP 3HP models so I gave that a miss.

Each to their own for advanced in-field metallurgical adjustments Are you confessing to being a pie shifter then?

Correct Dad has the same anchor (which was where my tube came from) which presumably came with the pins when it was new. You could make the pins they are only mild steel and I may, ahem, have bent the odd ones now and again top tip, if you stick them through a NATO hitch and heave you can usually straighten them if you have had plenty of Weetabix IIRC they are about 20mm diameter so you could make them out of a length of 20mm bar if you put a head on one end and a point on the other. The reason the head end is a ring and not just a flat bar is so you can put another pin through it to work it loose/haul it out. I doubt it would be worth the hassle and cost of the materials to make one when you can buy an ex mil version for less than £100.

Erm ... a case of beer got my pins (had the tube for years and years), can't say any more than that really Jim you can copy away all you like. I can also provide an alternative design of the 'Grippa with all curves and stuff in the arms if desired

Found another one showing the lengths of the pins This is as far as I know a genuine military anchor though I have no idea who made it as it is about 30 years old! Pretty much bombproof though. I also have a Kittygripper