BogMonster

Another vote for Tdi IIRC the figures are something like 2.5NA 68bhp 2.5TD 86bhp 200Tdi 107bhp 300Tdi 111bhp My anorak isn't big enough to remember the torque figures too

I am not 100% certain from memory but I think it was with the 2002MY that all parts stuff went electronic to Microcat and I don't think there is a post 02 printed parts catalogue - there certainly hasn't been one for several years.

Do you mean part numbers starting with AMRxxxx? If so then a copy of the old printed retail price list would be about the most complete list but it would be kind of pointless because there is no particular logic behind assigning the numbers so AMR part numbers could fit any of the vehicles in the range and may be nothing to do with yours.

Well saying "apples with oranges" wasn't really enough In tractor pull conditions it would come down to which has the most grip on the surface in hand and then the gearing. From experience I would suggest even a low powered tractor would spin its wheels on any surface in bottom gear and most will have a diff lock too so I think my money would go on the tractor though what I said earlier about weight transfer is significant - the back end of most tractors is relatively light when unladen. Fill the rear tyres with water and I know what my money would go on

Is there a forum discount on any of this stuff?

I hope they say when they are binning the old MT km as I will go and buy a couple of sets for future use! Don't like that at all.

Yes ASC is just the delay/damping built into the throttle response, nothing else. The custard is just a bit thicker in high range

Doing what? Most tractors are designed to take a lot of weight transfer from their trailer to give traction on the rear wheels, so stands a good chance of towing 8 tons of manure across ground that a Defender wouldn't even look at with a trailer on, never mind one more than twice the legal towing weight! You can't do weight transfer on a vehicle with a 150kg max noseweight! Or are you talking about unladen traction if you connected them together on a variety of surfaces? Or something else? It's a bit like comparing apples with small green aliens playing the harp on the international space station, IMHO.

Where are you? If in the UK I would have said talk to Ashcroft Transmissions but as you are talking about dollars I guess you are not in the UK. It may be worth talking to them anyway they might be able to throw some light on the problem.

I think the forum search engine only works with four letters of more, I have had that too. Makes it easier to find Bathtub's posts

I'd be quite interested too, for a 300Tdi

Electrically operated rear locker is an option on the Discovery 3. You can't switch it on though, only controlled by Terrain Response.

They also have ASC but that is anti shunt control - the bit that makes the throttle seems like it is connected to the engine management by two sort of great big paddle things in a vat of custard when in low range, so you move the throttle, the custard churns for a bit, and then something eventually happens Disconnecting the clutch sensor is a good cure for ASC...

I suspect VDO is the manufacturer of the unit. If it's like the C42 cassette decks then you only need a 2.5mm allen key to take it out byh undoing the clamp on either side. Not sure if it is the same technique though - I haven't double checked.

Look on the engine where the accelerator cable goes on to a bracket assy on the intake, there is a second cable (kickdown cable) which comes off from here and goes down to the autobox which is what "senses" the pedal position. You simply loosen the locknuts and adjust this by a whisker so the autobox governor "thinks" you are using more throttle than you actually are and this livens up the response at part throttle. I can't recall offhand how much I adjusted mine - but it was only a couple of millimetres. There is a "crimped nipple" (workshop manual term!) on the inner core of the kickdown cable which is supposed to be 1mm out from the end of the cable outer (described from RAVE) with the throttle closed, so basically a whisker more than that and see how you like it after a slight adjustment. I just did mine with trial and error. A very small tweak makes a hell of a difference and totally transformed the driveability. What you also need to do is check (with the engine off!) that you can get full travel on the throttle pedal so it hits the stop before the kickdown cable comes under tension and the limit of travel of whatever is located in the governor and takes all the strain, because somebody once told me that if you over-do it, you rip the guts out of the governor end (or snap the cable) when you boot the throttle hard, and either of these is a PITA!

Correct

Jizer is better than Gunk in my opinion, and its what I use.

My old one was a V8 but I twiddled with the kickdown settings a bit and it made it a hell of a lot more responsive, it would kick down more readily and hold onto gears longer. In many ways it was better than the D2 which is either normal or Sport, one is too lazy and the other is sometimes too revvy.

A169 is to do with diesel pipes chafing A155 doesn't exist as far as I can tell! A275 is handbrake related Also check here http://www.theaa.com/allaboutcars/recalls/...r&makeId=C3 http://www.vosa.gov.uk/ Bah - beaten to it!

Getting back to the question, it appears simple in the workshop manual and the process reads as follows: 1 . Open the liftgate and tailgate. 2 . CAUTION: Always protect paintwork and glass when removing exterior components. Remove the rear lamp assembly. Remove the 2 screws. Release the 2 clips. Disconnect the electrical connector. Remove the wiring harness. Release the wiring harness from the 2 clips. Release the 6 bulb holders. Release the electrical connector. I guess there are 2 hidden clips in there which either pop out or the light needs to slide sideways to release them, I have taken one out in the past but I honestly can't remember what I had to do.

After some consideration I have made the above post visible despite the fact that it contains some inflammatory comments. Jofnui, you are out of order coming in here with a 1st post and then slagging off the responses you recieved and telling them to go elsewhere so I suggest the approach is moderated because if this turns into a slanging match I will delete this thread. People are entitled to be sceptical about a process and rustproofing is a particularly well thrashed out one on this forum. I assume you have no connection with any of the companies making this stuff?

They are vastly improved and now very impressive, but I think a mechanically locked diff will always win in the end simply because anything else is reactive to the conditions rather than proactive before you get to the conditions

I was 99% sure the Puma 110 was the same as the late (post 02) Td5 110 but I will have a look next time I get a chance There is certainly an ARB for the late Td5 110 rear diff. Maybe worth sending Ashcrofts an email?

Undoing lots of rusty bolts, lots of swearing, lots of WD40, not a few skinned knuckles and bashed elbows, and possibly the odd sense of humour failure Seriously, I guess if they are the same type, age and engine it would not be too bad, there aren't that many body mounts and other than that it is just steering, wiring and plumbing and the gearshift etc if it is an auto. Are you using the drivetrain that originally went with the body, or is it a rolling chassis complete with everything fitted?

I don't think all Metros have the same wheel though?