BogMonster

No computator needed, straightforward enough if there are no electronic problems known. Gearbox uses MTF94 I think...

They all P&&s fuel out here after about a year on every single vehicle, but LR claim it is to do with the fuel here and not a pump fault. I don't think they have a reputation for great reliability though...

You could try and get a late set of the tubeless steel wheels, the Defenders that have been sold here for about the last year or so have the same type (same appearance) of std steel LR wheels but they are now tubeless not tubed. Otherwise whatever you do is a compromise as you suggest.

There is an old Series 1 here which used to be 2WD, it has a 4WD axle now (for many years) but the vin plate still says 2WD I think, a while since I looked at it.

Think the only way is to do a screen grab of the page, I have tried and failed to export things from RAVE in the past...

Napalm does the trick

And a 1/5 scale Merlin should still produce 200hp at least since they were over 1000 even on the early ones

if I was going to that much work I think I would have built a full size one then I could fly it always wanted a Spitfire... still do I guess!

Welcome Delay/shunty throttle are not uncommon on a Td5 and if really bad it is sometimes caused by a dodgy clutch sensor. The cheap solution is to unplug it (sensor on top of the master cylinder) which will disable the ASC but you may then find it is too jerky. The Td5s are never good in this respect though, only bearable, so it may be worth either trying some others if you can, or getting an opinion from a long-time Td5 owner. Just ensure the ignition is off and you can disconnect the injector harness with no other problems. It is easy to change (just take the rocker cover off, unplug 5 injectors, unplug from harness, take out, fit new one) no computer required and harness costs about 40 quid. Clean out the plugs on the main harness and on the ECU with electrical contact cleaner and it will usually be fine.

I can't, but are looking for Td5 or V8 for somebody that can?

Hmm - mine never did but mine was a 96MY, maybe 95MY are different. You need a similar procedure to disconnect the battery on a BBUS alarm equipped vehicle to prevent lots of noise but I didn't know it affected the airbag too.

Yes but they are stupid because they are forgetting that 4WD doesn't give you a lot of benefit when it comes to slowing down, most cars since the early 1900s have had brakes on all 4 wheels

It may be as simple as 5 min on the computer to clear a random fault code and I don't know what a UK dealer will charge for that. No idea - the airbag coupler may just have broken as a coincidence, it does happen and often on vehicles that are much newer than yours. Your other option is to get a non airbag steering wheel and do away with the system completely - unless you have a passenger airbag too (which is a lot harder to get rid of as you need to change the dash!) nobody will be any the wiser

You will need a diagnostic system like Testbook to reset the fault code in the system. Some of the systems reset warning lights after so many drive cycles if the fault disappears but the airbag one does not, no other way I am afraid. Can't see why taking the engine out would do anything UNLESS you disconnected the steering rods down to the box, and turned the steering wheel into a different position (or more likely by one or more complete turns) if you do this, this will rip the guts out of the rotary coupler behind the wheel, leading to an open circuit in the airbag system and a fault code/light. Bad news is an airbag coupler is a couple of hundred quid!

If its only a week I'd wait and get an Ashcroft one personally...

RAVE workshop manual says 12mm min thickness on a 300Tdi age Discovery. I think they are probably about 15mm new? I could go to the parts department and measure one, but there isn't much point as if yours are down to 10mm they definitely need changing!! If they are that worn there will be a massive lip around the edge which will chew into a new set of brake pads so if you are changing it do the whole lot at the same time ie new pads onto new discs, if you put a new set of pads in and "leave it till next weekend" then you will probably find they are a bit groovy, better to do it all at once. The other (dangerous) thing that can happen with very thin discs is that the pads can actually fall out of the calipers if the friction material gets worn down nearly to the metal, obviously not on types where the pins go through the pads so your fronts will be OK, but if that does happen then the piston starts chewing into the discs and you need a caliper overhaul as well as discs and pads! If you leave it too long (its amazing how dumb some people are and don't notice huge metallic shrieking noises coming from their brakes...) the piston eventually wears down a bit, falls out of the caliper completely, then you lose your brake fluid and all braking and have a F great big accident. So trying to eke out a bit more from an old set of discs is not really value for money

Not sure about removing the panel - probably just pops off if you work you way around with a flat bladed screwdriver, if it is like most door panels there are just push-in trim clips, you will break at least 2/3 of them in removal so get some new ones before you start! The problem is almost certainly the window regulator, instead of the tried and tested "scissors" mechanism the Freelander uses a stupid continuous-wire-running-in-a-tube design and the wire chafes through and breaks, or corrodes through and breaks, or just breaks. New regulator will be needed if so and they ain't cheap - and you can't get bits to fix them. I seem to recall the genuine ones make a nasty hole in a hundred quid but you may be able to get them cheaper than that if you are in the UK (which is a polite way of saying fill in your profile so we know where you are ) I expect it will be making funny graunchy grinding noises? if so that will be the problem, 99% sure, seen loads of them broken. Often the passenger side one rather than drivers side which is odd because drivers window usually gets more use. I think water sits in the tube and rots the wire through or something. The whole thing is a rubbish design.

On some discs it is stamped into the disc around the edge somewhere - I remember seeing 13mm on some but whether all the non vented ones are the same, I don't know. Its more a judgement call as to whether it looks b**xed or not, i.e. if it looks knackered then it probably is Min thickness is more to do with having them skimmed down to remove grooves but to be honest I wouldn't bother doing this, I'd just fit new discs.

There was something on the news the other day that said something like if the whole of Britain stopped producing electricity and driving cars tomorrow then in 2 years time the Chinese would have increased their emissions to a level where we would be back to square 1. So the answer is simple. Bomb China

Very quick

they are so F ugly - the ones with the half-back on them look like some sort of giant insect, truly horrid things Discovery forum is for photogenic vehicles only

Rated, and load tested frequently too I think, though I don't know how much they overload a lifting device from its "rated load" to load test it before issuing a certificate. A part of our company maintains forklifts used by the MOD and I think those have to be given a "thorough examination" and certified about three or four times a year! I thought PMPO was think of a number and quadruple it

Bill I think most 4x4 winches are rated on the "absolute maximum load it will pull for 1/2 second before something goes pop" basis I have read all sorts of different figures but "proper" equipment I think has a safety factor of 2 for pulling, around 5 to 7 for lifting and 10 for lifting people i.e. minimum breaking strain of the weakest part is 2 or 5 or 7 or 10 times the rated load.

Yes you can do it and no HSE "experts" won't recommend it but HSE rules are designed so the lowest common denominator (a complete f***ing idiot from the shallow end of the gene pool, the bit where it has started to dry out, the sort of person who would light a match to look for a gas leak in the middle of the night) can't really hurt themselves. I made a fitting on my garage roof to put a pulley block on to and used my winch for hanging a 1/4 of beef to cut down: Worked a treat The sensible things to do when using a pulling-only device for lifting would be: 1) Apply a safety factor of about 10 to 1 in other words with a 4/5 tonne winch don't lift anything more than about 500kg and 2) Remember it (probably) doesn't have any safety features built in e.g. over centre valves on a hyd winch so if the winch fails the load falls. I.e. stand out of the #kin way! The one thing I would not do is use it for raising people except in a dire emergency e.g. somebody who had just fallen over a cliff, because of the lack of safety features. Somebody in the know may correct me on this but I *think* the Tirfor type winches are rated for lifting which is why they are referred to as a "wire rope hoist". I have one of those too (a T-Max hand winch) but the Milemarker was much easier to use

ROFL! As for bikers, well I would have thought any biker who falls off in the fast lane of a motorway is probably going to be squished in about 0.3 seconds anyway so the construction of the barrier is probably the least of his worries...