BogMonster

Oi

Mine doesn't leak onto the seat - it runs down the gutter and then down the little gutter on the edge of the front windscreen - are you sure there isn't a bit missing on yours? Mine is 02MY but I am pretty sure they are all the same. I thought the bits were a lot cheaper than £600 though - check with Ashcrofts. Yours will be one of the "maybe" ones with regard to CDL fitment but it is easy to check on the t/box. Mine doesn't have the spigot Edited to add http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_17.html might be £600 for everything inc labour but not for just the t/box bits.

did you get the prices in writing? if you paid by c/card then complain to the card company, I did this once where a hire car quote (not even given in writing - just over the phone) didn't match what was charged, again it was an ex VAT / inc VAT situation. I think the card company probably paid the difference as a disputed item because it was only £100 or so, probably not worth the bother to them to argue with Eurcrapcar.

Follow the air intake back and it is pretty much the first thing in the plumbing after you pass the air filter, look for a plastic thingy in the air intake plumbing with a small harness coming out of it. Doubt a new battery means anything TBH. Yes the injector harness is idiot proof as long as you don't drop anything down inside the engine not much else that can go wrong though the rocker cover gasket can be a bit fiddly to get seated properly around the back. I never liked the four-eyed headlights on the new ones. They work very well, but they look ugly and completely wrong for the rest of the vehicle shape IMHO. And if you break one they are stupidly expensive

If its overheating then I think you need a new radiator. I have seen a lot of early 300Tdis, admittedly mainly Defenders, that are just "on the limit" of what the old radiator can cope with in normal on-road driving either due to a buildup of crud inside the radiator or more commonly because all the small fins between the radiator bars have rotted away with age. Flushing has in many cases been ineffective so we don't even bother trying it now, just fit a new rad. It is also highly likely that the viscous fan will be blitzed as in my experience probably 50% of 300Tdi owners have a viscous fan that is somewhere between less than effective and completely b*ggered but the 300Tdi is so over-cooled (when the rad is in good condition) that you don't really notice! Fit a new radiator core and see what happens - it could be a self-protection system in the EDC as you suggested. It might not be, but if you want to make it reliable for expeditions and its the original radiator AND its an auto, I'd change it anyway...

Tut. You must have been speeding!!!

And the option of a centre difflock though in every other respect I prefer the pre 03MY vehicles like mine. I use electrical switch cleaner on ECU's but the principle is the same.

I'll have you know it is 07:02 here so there anyway the bluddy kerosene tank for my central heating is leaking so it looks like I will not be in the office today fortunately we have no environmental lunatics here so all that happens is a bit of dead grass and a funny smell which will be gone in a couple of days instead of a massive clearup operation involving helicopters, fire brigades, a police cordon evacuating everybody for 2 miles around and a six metre high bund around the property so much for long lasting plastic fuel tanks - only 10 years old...

Love the new title Fi Avatar?

fair enough but just bear this in mind.... the switch in my Milemarker wired remote failed after only about 10 uses, Alfred Murray sent me 2 replacement switches and the first one of those didn't work either switch quality leaves a bit to be desired... but I also found the rocker switch very awkward to use, much prefer a toggle

Orange springs, eurgh Hmm that one looks like it crashed into the same North London showroom as that green 04 reg 90 that has appeared in a lot of mags in the last year or so. Must be a bad roundabout nearby or something he seems to have collected almost exactly the same bits on the way through

Pete is right - if the lights on the dash work with hazards on then the bulbs/wiring are ok, I am not sure how they are activated but assume it must be a double pole relay so the relay is possibly dud.

I bought a red alloy remote as used on the Husky winches from David Bowyer because the standard plasticky MM remote was junk and let me down and the Husky one is the best available IMHO, though not cheap. I have reversed over one of the Husky ones and it survived (admittedly on grass not on tarmac!) He supplied a matching socket for a few quid extra and it is wired in parallel with the Milemarker own brand wireless remote, works fine. I have mine mounted on the back of the cubby box rather than outside the vehicle, when I am outside I use the wireless and I would never use anything else, the MM one is not that great for range and one day when I get around to it, it will be replaced with a Lodar, but I'd no more go back to a wired winch remote than I would to a wired remote for my video recorder, I can only assume the vast majority of people have never tried one! I can't remember when I last used the wired remote, though I always carry it for a backup. IMHO I would not rely on the std Milemarker remote handset for a backup because it is not at all reliable - the switches give out very easily and it doesn't like being trodden on either... there are plenty of better ones out there, the Warn handsets are good too, just get a remote and the matching socket for it and it will be easy to connect up.

possibly the bulb(s) in the dash, can't remember how many there are on a 200Tdi whether left and right are separate or just the one is it indicators, hazards, or both?

All you need is a 6203 bearing for about a fiver (and presumably a new fan belt, now...) and you can carry a spare alternator along with your spare water pump

I think there are one or two on here that are either in the professional painting/bodyshop business, or know somebody that is, so I wondered if I could pick your brains please. I need to find a new supplier of 2 pack spray paints as the folks that we have used for years and years just cited "a change in HSE regulations" as a reason to charge us over 300 quid to fill in a sodding form for hazardous carriage or something stupid, on an order only worth about £1000. It was clear that it was because they couldn't be bothered and were getting somebody else to do it but regardless of the reason, people only get the chance to do that to me once Needs to be somewhere that can supply 2 pack paints, thinners, activator etc on a trade basis and charge sensible prices for both the paint and any paperwork etc associated with carriage to a UK port, all onward shipping will be dealt with. And I suppose they will have to comply with whatever stupid HSE regulations are currently in force regarding carriage of small quantities of paint. The more I hear about the UK HSE and its stupid regulations the more convinced I am that the rest of the world should do anything in its power to prevent being infested by an organisation manned by frustrated wheel clamp wardens who are hell-bent on crippling an entire country with regulations how dangerous is 20 litres of paint as long as you don't drink it or attack it with an oxyacetylene torch, FFS!!! Any suggestions please? Thanks Stephen

Maybe it belongs to Ken Livingstone By the way have you not said anything right since 21 Dec last year

More reliable than diesel_jim's winch solenoids though

Les, I have also seen it done by chopping out the whole lower section and making a new piece shaped like the red outline in the picture, and then welding that in. Nice work as always

One unfinished project is enough for most people

May be worth checking earths and things. check out the "Definitive Alarm Spider Post" in the technical archive forum, for possble symptoms of the spider problem, and how to fix it. Don't think having the drivers door closed would have anything to do with it though - that sounds more like an earth fault because the door switches go to the alarm ECU and provide an earth when the door is open so perhaps there is another earth that is faulty and that is why removing the earth through the door switch makes a difference - its the only thing I can think of anyway

Look near the bottom of this thread http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=617 in the tech archive, an explanation of the numbers is there. There is also an old "imperial hardness" stamp, some are stamped S and some are T, not sure what they are equivalent to though.

Burn the TD and release the demons of Birmingham

there must be a mechanic in a place called "landrovery" surely

The fitment on any Td5 onwards Defender has to be four M12's, because the threaded inserts inside the chassis crossmember are metric, either 4 x M12s, or for the other sort of towing hitch, 2 x M16s. Half inch (12.7mm) bolts will fit the hitch but M14s, while they may fit through the hitch, won't fit through the hole in the rear crossmember of an older Defender without making the holes bigger, as they are about 13.5mm. The tensile strength of four M12 8.8s works out as something like 26 tonnes anyway IIRC so M14s are probably overkill