BogMonster

I have at work, which isn't where I'm at as I write this. If nobody has come up trumps by tomorrow I can try and print it to a PDF for you, not sure if that works from Rave or not...

Easier to fit big spotlights on an A bar over the winch if required Low line fitting may allow you to put it under the bumper as Land Rover do with the M8000 but the main one is keeping the clicky bits out of the poo as you say

I have seen something similar on a Discovery where the seals inside the master cylinder somehow turned inside out and the pedal went almost right to the floor before you could feel anything. New m/cyl seals sorted it IIRC, it was a few years ago now...

Ask Chris (username GBMUD) about buying a cheap diesel Freelander....

Unfortunately for Stephen, Matt is right

I'd agree with Tony I think, that's the sort of age you probably want to be thinking about getting rid of a Freelander not buying it - just my 2p. Not a car to keep for a lifetime

Eurgh. It's not even orange...

a sticky interior locking button can do this, because the solenoid locks it then the fact the button is still stuck up causes the solenoid to "think" that somebody inside is trying to open the door again so it unlocks!

Sure-Seal, its like a silicone sealant but heat resistant and white...

Ah ok I see - so the male pins and female pins on a 12S plug are arranged differently in the same plug body. I only looked at it briefly and thought "hmmm looks the same and surely an extension lead just passes all the wires straight through" but apparently not. Oh well, back to the Bodgit & Scarper school of electrickery then Thanks

I know stuff all about towing electrics but I need to sort some lights for my boat trailer before the scuffers decide to chase me So I got a nifty set of magnetic trailer lights to clap on the back and take off before launching, because we all know what salt water does to things with electricity in don't we But the company I ordered the mag lights from didn't bother to send the extension lead I ordered at the same time so the plug is about 12 foot away from the socket on the back of my 90 Where I'm confused is 12N and 12S ... if I understand correctly 12N (which is what my socket is supposed to be) is for lighting and 12S is something to do with caravan split charging systems. A local store has a 6 metre extension lead which looks to have the same sort of 7 pin plug on one end and a matching socket on the other one - but when I went to buy it, its marked 12S. I assume it won't work as an extension for my trailer lighting?? Is the wiring & pin layout totally different for the 12S? The plugs look the same but I guess they aren't. A simple question I know, but nobody here really bothers with trailer electrics, they just drive a bit slower and hope people can figure out what is going on Idiots guide required please Thank you

Just a guess but I'm thinking motorway use may present some issues too

Yawn. Most things new are probably scorned in their early years. Just think when somebody first said, if I take this lump of metal, bore a hole through it and put a little tin can shaped thing inside it attached to a bent shaft, make it all go round which makes the tin can go up and down and squish some air up tight and then throw in a bit of oil in the bottom and petrol in the top with a little spark, one day we will get enough power out of it to drive the cart, and we can get rid of the horses. How they all laughed on their chariots I don't claim to be any sort of designer but I do know that in many ways good design is about something that does the job, if you can't explain why it works then that doesn't make it a bad design as long as it does work I thought that video was very impressive...

I doubt it. I'm guessing but I expect the BCU takes an input from the switches and then uses that input to switch a relay, so its probably all integral to the BCU. If you could get into the software you could probably change the time-out but its not something that can be done with T4 as far as I know.

Welcome I guess the problem may be that if you feed power back in to the BCU the wrong way then it may energise all sorts of other circuits you didn't want energised, leading to lots of bells and whistles and sirens plus possibly the occasional pop and a modest amount of smoke You might get away with removing the electric window system from the BCU completely and hard-wiring the switches through relays to control the window motors direct, using their own power feed, but it would be a lot of work. Why is it a big issue? You can already close the windows for a set period after the ignition has been switched off, there is a delay timer.

Have you been brinking as well RT?

if it stalled the engine it sounds like a dead short to me!

So am I. It is after all an interesting development and I for one am interested in this and in the future incarnations ... good luck with whatever Phase 2 is

Don't think you imagined it - I think there is a thread like that too - keep looking!

They do! ...and if you get rough on an alloy rim with tyre levers you WILL bend the edge of the rim! If you HAVE to change tyres on alloys with tyre levers then a good trick is to get some plastic pipe about 3/4" in diameter, cut a piece off about six inches long and split it down one side, open it up and put it around the edge of the rim then use the tyre lever on that. Helps a bit... as does a gallon of lubricant.

:hysterical: :hysterical: Can just see you saying that too

I do my own but then I sell tyres as work so I have a nice electric/pneumatic tyre changer to use. If I had to do them with tyre levers I wouldn't bother. Note that it REALLY depends on the type of wheel rim. Tubed tyres onto an old Defender steel wheel with a nice deep wheel well, easy as you like even with tyre levers because the opposite side of the bead goes deep in to the well so it is never very tight. Try putting the same tyre onto some of the new alloys where the wheel well is about 1/2 inch deep, forget it, it is damn near impossible with anything other than the proper kit and even then it can be a fight sometimes if you don't get it just right.

I think the motor is ok, its the standard UK supplied MM control valve that has a flow restriction. More fluid = faster, yes, I'm not sure what max flow the standard motor will cope with though. May depend on whether it is the UK or US spec motor?

I guess the advantage is that a bent bar is still fairly strong whereas a bent tube loses much of its strength and really needs to be replaced immediately - look at a track rod that has been bent and then straightened again, they are very weak and easy to bend again.

Don't think you will get much higher pressure from a normal domestic pressure washer - we have a big Karcher at work and apart from the fact it steams as well (which shifts stuff much easier!) the actual operating pressure and effectiveness is not much better than my home ones (one Karcher, one Draper) If I have a really dirty vehicle I leave it till its been raining to wash it then the muck is nice and soft again