BogMonster

Yes - there is a post from Kev Baldwin on the International forum with full details!

Me too Dunno what the fuss is about anyway, I think tuna tastes vile, so when it all runs out I don't care, in fact it will be a bonus because I will never again have to accidentally eat a tuna sandwich Do you think we can persuade them to fish for cucumber? I don't like that in sandwiches either....

Not sure about this plastic clip - but every Defender I've ever been in gets its seat belts slammed in the doors regularly so I don't think it makes much difference The inertia reels are all pretty rubbish too, it does reel the belt in but fairly slowly. It isn't that old - only 2 and a bit years. I'll alert the authorities in Kabul

Good idea I will have to do some measurements on the weekend anyway, in the short term I think the A frame is going to meet Mr Grinder to leave a mast for the VHF aerial on the stbd side leaving the port side clear for the engine, then I can worry about what to do next but northernchris will get a PM in due course I think

Yes I suppose so - the smaller diameter galv pipe I used on the bike just seemed very brittle - it snapped suddenly and very cleanly, so I wondered if this was a by product of being heavily galvanised - though I guess probably not then? I have no idea what the existing A frame is made of as far as steel quality is concerned but I am hoping to be able to modify it without welding or damaging the galvanising because the blunt end of a boat has a lot of salt water around it and there is a "slight corrosion issue" Otherwise it'll be in the skip as I ain't paying a grand for a stainless one! The problem with that idea is that there is then nowhere to put nav lights or the VHF aerial... If I could get hold of 12 feet of 2 inch 316 stainless and if I could weld stainless I could make my own but I can't and I can't. I don't have a tube bender either, I was just wondering whether it was worthwhile trying to find one or whether it would be a waste of time as the galv pipe would just snap... not sure how the bends in the original one were done, it might have been heated. B_B_C come here... <smack> now go away

Nige I have just had a look at the snatch block we have in stock (just an ordinary swingaway type) and it gives ratings for both on the label: Hauling SWL 9.1 tonnes Lifting SWL 3.4 tonnes No info on safety factor though...

How easy is it to bend galvanised pipe? Nothing to do with Land Rovers but I need to make some "modifications" to the A frame on my boat, as I can't fit the auxiliary engine with it in the way. I have only ever tried working with galv once before to make a "heavy duty" set of motorbike handlebars and it worked OK or so I thought - till they snapped on a heavy landing and I got a face full of speedo so I assume it's fairly brittle.... Would you/could you use a normal tube bender? the A frame on there is made of 1.5" (approx - haven't measured it) galvanised pipe and basically I need to put an extra "wiggle" in each side to make it wider to clear the engine. Any thoughts on this would be gratefully received - the option is to buy a shiny bling 316 stainless one but it'll be 3 months coming and probably cost the thick end of a grand stainless boat things are stupidly expensive

What a very interesting way to knock a wall down

Actually it is the new aux I have just got for my RIB, I was looking for somewhere to hang it while I check it over so it seemed as good a place as any, saved building an engine stand Mo, yeah it is winter too

I have never been able to establish the definitive safety factor as you seem to get different answers depending on who you ask ... BUT it is always much higher for lifting than pulling, which kind of makes sense. 2x for pulling and 5x for lifting seems to be the lowest common denominator, with about 10x for lifting people. I have also heard 7x mentioned for lifting and 12x for lifting people... I also believe from everything I have found, that things like shackles and hooks which are "rated" (stamped) are rated for lifting, which I guess is why you find a 1 tonne stamped hook fitted to many Warn winches and a 2 tonne one on some others! Even the big swivel hook I have fitted to the Milemarker is only 3 tonne rated, but if it is at 5x safety factor, that should make minimum ping strength 15 tonnes, so it could be rated for 7.5 tonnes pulling at a safety factor of 2, at least that is the way I understand it. I am pretty sure none of the ratings take into account shock loadings which is important for us - it will be based on a steady pull. I think where you see a rating that is qualified as "not to be used for lifting" (like seems to be the case with many snatch blocks for example) then that means the load is quoted with either a lower safety factor, or maybe even none at all .... in which case the "9000kg not for lifting" snatch block I have might go pop with the MM at full grunt (4700kg x 2) I work on the basis of as big as possible for everything as I have spent ages looking in to it and have never found a "this is the right answer cos it says so in B.S. xxxx" answer.

I guess you didn't see Clarkson's "Toybota" - a Hilux with a 225hp outboard on the back Worked quite well till he turned it over....

...so tonight I built an amphibious Sankey Even the "transom" is the right height for the engine, can't get better than that

No because when you are blowing something you can pile as much pressure as you like to make it go faster through a small hole, but when you are sucking something you only get 1 bar to vacuum and then you run out of air because there's none left... At least I think that would be correct Edited so I can mutter that bluddy turbot-charger beat me to it

Nothing new about that then. Land Rovers have had grindy gears right the way back to 1948 You may find it has simply adopted the gears from the Discovery 2 transfer box (LT230Q) which had some sort of treatment to make them quieter. It certainly works - no gear noise at all in my D2. I like it

From RAVE: "Bleeding of the brake system can be carried out using the procedures given on TestBook, or by following the manual procedure given below. WARNING: If any components upstream of brake modulator, including the modulator itself are replaced, the brake system must be bled using the procedure on TestBook/T4, to ensure that all air is expelled from the new component(s)." I have never rummaged in the brakes of a P38a so I don't know whether it is the same or not, but that's what LR say for the D2...

I've just had a look in a Td4 workshop manual and the boost pressure sensor is in the inlet manifold so there is no hose to tap into. I can't remember the inlet plumbing on a Td4 as its a while since I sold mine, but anywhere that you can tap into the air intake plumbing between the turbo and the inlet manifold will be fine anyway, that will give you manifold air pressure which is what you want.

Thanks, you have a PM, 2 nuts and 4 washers would be marvellous

Hadn't invented man made fibres back then eh Ian? My coat? Why thank you I was just leaving

I've got one of them to go on the front of mine to hook the winch cable on to, just trying to find an M24 nut to go on the back at the moment.... the expression "rocking horse poo" springs to mind

Me too, Tdi engine - has to be manual every time regardless of on or off road. I don't like any auto's offroad, they are good for control in some situations but annoying in many others and on balance I prefer a manual for what I do, also I have driven a few and owned two, and without exception the gearchanges in low range have been savage if you have any amount of throttle which I found really annoying. On road - and behind a V8 - auto every time.... Which is why I have one of each

Yeah I suppose it would be a bit difficult to do that in a mobile phone... Top service as always, the continuing success and reputation of Ashcroft Transmissions is well deserved

I should think he is - it was all going so well until he invaded Poland

"Late 2000" could be either a Td4 or an L series as that was about when they changed - which one have you got? If it's a Td4 I'm pretty sure there is a boost sensor somewhere so you may be able to put a T-piece into the line going to that? Otherwise I guess if you drill and tap into the inlet manifold, that would be another option on the older ones, IIRC the inlet manifold on the Td4 is rubbish plastic like everything is these days so it will probably break if you do that...

I'm thinking something like a small aluminium steering guard mounted vertically just inside the striker, so you sort of bounce off and get thrown out the door, rather than stopping abruptly to the sound of tearing denim The only downside I can think of is that it might increase the slack in the seatbelt slightly if you had a prang and of course the cable tie snapped (as intended) because the seat belt isn't taking an exactly direct line from the mounting to where it goes up over your leg so you may move a bit further forwards before the belt tightens and stops you. It is less of an issue for me, having the seat right back, than it would be for short people, but worth bearing in mind. I may devise a Mark II version of the BogMonsterBeltSaver over the weekend with the hole down a bit lower, to see if that makes it better in that respect. There is a cheaper bodge version which is simply to cable tie the seat belt to the seat tilt handle which is better in this respect but a pain in some other ways. On balance I think I prefer the new idea as I slam the belt in the door a lot more often than I biff my head on the steering wheel...

Might be worth getting a few "for stock" Les, if somebody doesn't mind looking after them