BogMonster

Prob not at my local hardware store, but I can keep some spares Have to think about mountings though... no roll cage and no intention of fitting one. I want some of those sexy bling radiator plugs of yours too

Are they waterproof Si? I see it says they are sealed. I have been looking for something waterproof to go on the front of mine... might be the answer. The Ring ones I have don't much like doing a submarine impression in the quarry, and they seem to fill up quite quickly at the jet wash too

Brilliant... Not required here though. Take one's wagon anywhere near a nasty scratchy tree? Perish the thought

What's the point of a run-flat tyre that doesn't then? Or am I missing something?

Yep I can confirm from first hand experience that getting them off can be a bind.... Worst case was 2 of us spending about 45 minutes with a 14lb sledgehammer blocks of wood crowbars etc etc trying to get a front wheel off an early Freelander belonging to the company, when somebody had a puncture. It was funny at the time cos it was only 5 min from work and it was a nice day ... less so if dark P*ing with rain in the middle of nowhere. Never tried driving on a wheel to loosen it but I would if it happened again. Lots of WD40 or copper grease now used whenever wheels are off

Alloys suffer from being seized on to wheel hubs on Discovery/Freelander because of corrosion on the hub. And the Discovery 3 comes with a space saver spare (I think the idea is to improve the ground clearance from bugger all to not very much under the back ) though I think most are supplied with full size spare wheels, so LR are not immune

Did anybody see the question: "Q: hello there can you tell me what make and model the winch is please and what condition it is in? regards simon A: Not sure..it has a sort of emblomed W moulded in the plastic cover of the motor- pulls out at least 30mtrs- pulls the 2ton RR out of a sticky hole when it's in one- and runs from an electric cable hook through the front bumper(part of the winch set up) If you want more photos give me an email and and I'll venture out and forage to take more photos Regards" "Has a sort of W in the top?" Yeah sounds like he bought it to me, regular expert on winches, bet he has all the receipts too, for "one 2 ton winch with a sort of W in the top"

God would say: "What was that bluddy great bang?!"

There was an interesting article in LRM (I think) recently about a discreetly armoured Discovery and RR and it said just that - if the oik knows they are attacking a tough target they'll use a bigger bang, but the reason the discreet ones work well is because the effort put into the attack is likely to be gauged on an un-armoured vehicle, so it just bounces off. The Discovery shown in the article was amazing, you really wouldn't know it was any different to any other white 1990s Discovery. The RR was more obvious with split rear doors and heavy duty steel wheels.

I would think something like one of the little square solenoids that you sometimes find as starter solenoids on Lister type generators may be worth checking out. I am not sure if these have a "normally open" and "normally closed" terminal, it may only be "normally open" but it would be worth a look anyway. If there is a "normally closed" terminal then your battery wiring could run through this and then when you flip the panic switch, then it would cut off power. Just a thought. Otherwise you could have a cunning solenoid operated pair of wire cutters on the positive battery lead, press a button, snip, all power is cut off

Have to say that ANY tyre that is down to 1.6mm is about as much use as a chocolate fireguard on a 4x4 anyway, whether on or off road. Mine get dumped long before that!

Where's the logic in vehicles with lots of passengers being allowed balder tyres I wonder

I have some interesting photos of post-accident Defenders and I couldn't agree more.... The safest vehicle to be in during an accident? Not if you roll it!

It probably does but their life is not all that great anyway

you would need to fiddle with the linkage on the SLS height sensor because that goes on halfway along the radius arm so all that would happen is that the air spring would lower until the vehicle ride height was correct again Of course a cheap suspension lift could be had by just fiddling with the linkage so that the back end thinks it is too low then it pumps itself up and voila! I have not tried this but I see no reason why it should not work Can't remember if the SLS linkage is adjustable or not but it wouldn't be rocket science to modify it anyway

Bear in mind the "strengthening" kit for the cross member (the bit of plate behind the jaw and the bit of angle glued on the bottom of the cross member) is an ofishul Land Rover part. I would think they needed to strengthen the wolf. I have seen a civilian spec Td5 110 here with the whole lot ripped right off. Got a photo somewhere, will see if I can dig it out It probably would be OK towing 3.5T on road with no shock loadings but there is no reserve strength there IMHO.

3.5 tons same as the old ones. Might be 4 tons with airbrakes as well, can't remember.

Oh I see I was talking about airbag airbags (the one in the steering wheel) sorry! Why buy an SLS vehicle and then rip the SLS out when you can buy a non SLS one which would be cheaper anyway?

There are no crush plates. The way it is fixed is basically just nuts welded to small bits of plate which are tacked on just inside the outer skin of the crossmember, and that is all. The outer skin is about 2mm thick.... and bends like a Cornflakes packet as you can see in the photos. The "reinforcing kit" (for which read bit of 6mm plate bolted to the outside where it does absolutely nothing useful at all with a NATO hitch) was developed early on after there were problems I think - it is even weaker without it! It does have some use if you have a 2 bolt hitch fitted in the bottom holes because then you can also put the four bolts in above the hitch which helps a bit, but it is still a bodge. With a NATO hitch you still have only the same four bolts holding it on and then the bit of angle iron along the bottom. There are no bolts going right the way through and no spreader on the inside. The whole idea is weak even if it was made of thicker steel, and I can't imagine it costs much less to make so one wonders why they changed it really the old design with bolts right through was perfect. Yes it is identical to the equivalent Td5 chassis apart from engine mounts I think. Just don't snatch tow with one, that is my advice

Exmoor Beast has a "free" Quaife in the back of his 110 I think?

Another vote for Thermoguard here... Mine had done 20,000 miles before it was even installed I am not worried about the response time on the basis that I reckon the bits I need to worry about getting too hot will take as long to heat up as the thermocouple so it is probably giving a realistic view of what the components are doing which is probably more useful to know than the temp of a bit of gas that has gone before you can say "fff"

Many times I have said just that. A couple of new doors, a respray and sort out the notchy reverse gear would have been a lot cheaper than replacing it. And the engine and gearbox and transfer box and diffs were better in the old one with 77,000 miles on when I sold it, than this one was when I got it, never mind now at 16,000 RT maybe I should say to LR, "I thought you said this fitting kit was supposed to reinforce the crossmember" Spot the totally dumb design anyway - the thick bit of plate is on the wrong side of the x-member, the bolts still just screw in to the same threaded holes duh who thought that one up I wonder Still friggin annoyed though

Regular listeners to my droning might have noticed I have a low opinion of the "new Td5 type" chassis especially the bit where the towing hitch goes on. This is why: Reversing my boat trailer in to the water to recover the RIB this afternoon ('kin ell it was cold out there, about 3 deg C and sleety showers!) and there was this curious "grrooiiiinkBANG" and..... Absolute bluddy rubbish they are, might as well be made of Bacofoil The trailer ring didn't even really lock (sometimes the NATO eye will get a slot worn in it and then they can lock solid but this one is perfect, just a bit rusty) and it has just about ripped the f@^%&in thing right out of the crossmember Still it does bring forward the requirement to "BT" the crossmember. I'm off to UK on holiday at the end of the week but will post photos of whatever I do when I come back

OK here you go, on the left is a standard 3.9 plug Champion RN11YCC and on the right is the Champion RC11PYPB4 that fits my 4.0 (which has the "Thor" engine/Bosch engine management/four coil dizzyless ignition system) Everything else is smaller except the thread and reach which is identical so the good news is that they will physically fit According to the "spark plug bible" at work, the rest of the plug number is: R - resistor C - the physical dimensions 16mm head instead of 21mm; reach is 19mm and thread is 14mm same as the RN ones 11 - heat range PYPB - Platinum tipped electrodes with insulator projecting 1.5mm and tapered off ground electrode (same projection as the YCC except platinum) 4 - plug gap 1mm which I make 39 thou in the old money It says somewhere else that you mustn't adjust the plug gaps on these as jamming a feeler gauge in there will damage the platinum coating, and since that bit is what presumably costs £7 odd I guess you wouldn't want to do that

Actually my main objection to that particular grille was that it is "Fugly" The other things which people have already said about the company don't serve to change my mind though Maybe Si should make an "X" logo'ed replacement grille? Not many trees to break mine on round here, so the original is still fine on mine