BogMonster

Blimey that is cheap - why are they so cheap? The D2 axles have standard Rover 2 pin diffs in both ends (mine had a replacement diff when new and the back one makes lots of nice "click and ping" noises now 4yrs/30k road miles) with all the weaknesses that come with those. As long as you can get whatever tyres you want in 16" then the standard steel wheels are pretty bombproof looking things. You could even fit some of the 8x18 alloys and fit 37x12.50R18 BFG MT's for a bit of bling, might need a few bodywork adjustments tho B)

Thanks, will have to check that against my BFGs Though while I was over in the UK recently I saw a 90 with what I think were 8.5x16 Compomotive AT alloys, and big BFGs (probably 305/70R16) on and I must admit that combination was quite appealing too, looks good and the size I need

And correctly stamped rated shackles What is the tensile strength of a dog's bottom I wonder? Would 4.75t do it?

It isn't for me - just got some part numbers, a "clutch housing" (brake housing I assume) a seal and something else, can't remember as it is at work. We used to get Warn bits from Arbil and the guy I used to deal with gave me trade prices on everything, but he has moved on now and the last time I tried to explain the business relationship I used to have with Paul I remember ending with the impression I was talking to two short pieces of wood OK thank you all, I will poke some emails off tomorrow

9" grinder Sounds like the pin is seized or broken, I did know somebody who stripped one right down once with just such a problem but have never done it myself I am afraid.

What's the cheapest place to get spares for a stinky old Warn 8274? I'm thinking P G Winches will be worth a try, anybody else? Needs to be somebody who 1) does mail order and 2) answers their frigging emails (something which can't be taken for granted in many suppliers these days ) Ta Stephen

Gromit I hadn't thought of it before, but once you get the diaphragm sorted out again, check the boost pipe that runs from the injector pump round to the turbo, I have seen vehicles where this is split, dislodged or chafed through and if you lose the boost pressure to the diaphragm it drives more or less like a 2.5 naturally asthmatic i.e. not very quick at all

If it did change it was probably when the Td4 came out. Wouldn't like to regularly tow 2 tons with a Td4 manual though, the clutch on mine used to smell after doing a moderately interesting hill start WITHOUT a trailer on.... and I am not somebody who needs 3000rpm to do a hill start!

I did that on my old one Jim but it didn't seem to make any difference. £600 to throw something away blimey I am in the wrong business Just a note of caution on the "dot" - I disassembled a number of pumps - took the lid off to have a look without touching the diaphragm position - when I was trying to reset my old 90 to original settings at one stage, and I found the dots were all over the place! I assume that they are not manufactured consistently (hey big surprise there then!) the most common I found is somewhere in the 10-11 o'clock position as you look at it, but I also saw ones that were down in the lower right quadrant about 4 o'clock , and some at about 7 o'clock! All vehicles that I know would never have been touched - so it pays to just note the starting position and not read too much in to its exact location! As Cols said a good squirt of WD40 or similar is a good idea, I found my old one was quite dry and had a bit of corrosion in there. New one is not far from the end of the warranty so a bit of fiddling and a chat with Allisport is imminent I think :)

This is for a Td4 model handbook but I guess it would be the same as it is basically the same vehicle apart from the oily bits: Max trailer wt 2000kg Max nose wt 140kg Gross train weight 3840kg (1.8P), 3860kg (V6), 3880kg (Td4) GVW of a Td4 is 2080KG so if loaded to GVW then the trailer drops to 1800. Edited to add - the workshop manual also says "† To increase stability, it is recommended that the nose weight is adjusted to the maximum limit, when loading to the maximum trailer weight. * If the vehicle trailer weight exceeds 1800 kg the vehicle payload must be restricted to less than the Gross Vehicle Weight to ensure the loaded combination is within the Gross Train Weight limit. ** The Gross Towing Weight must be reduced by 300 kg (662 lb) when the following conditions exist: climbing steep hills and mountains with air temperatures above 30 °C / 86 °F. altitudes of 1000 metres (3280 feet) and above." No mention of unbraked trailer weight but the limit Jon suggests is probably sensible since a Defender's unbraked trailer limit is 750kg and the Freelander is a lot lighter. I won't therefore comment on how much my twin axle "built from bits of portakabin chassis" RIB trailer weighs with 600kg of boat on it

It can be expressed much more concisely

Why didn't she just wait until a couple of feet had emerged and then tie the end to a tree? Much quicker

You can pull the diaphragm right out on a 300 with no problems - 200 is prob the same - and if you take it out you will see a wear mark on the offset pin where the fuel pin or whatever you call it rubbed up and down as the diaphragm moved, there will be a shiny line on the offset pin. On a 300 this should be facing the front of the engine to get it back to the same spot, a 200 is probably the same.

The discs on the D2s do wear out a lot quicker than the old Discoverys, I guess it is because the pads last much longer so must be of a harder material which eats the discs instead (wonderful design idea) - mine has about 30k miles on it and the discs are really quite worn, a very noticeable "lip" on them (outside the pad swept area) which would not have happened with the old models. To be honest, I have seen mixed results with skimming discs on a lathe and I wouldn't arse around with doing that, I'd just fit new ones especially if you are paying labour for somebody else to do it (not sure how big the job is on a D2 but it is not a five minute job on the older vehicles!) By all means have a look to check, but it is not impossible that they are on their way out - I am afraid I don't know the min thickness but it is usually stamped on the disc somewhere on the old Discoverys, not sure about D2 though.

The lock stops have always been "something I was going to check" but as mine came with 16" alloys on it I assume it has the smaller ones anyway - the bigger lock stops were for the factory fitted 18s I think. It may be possible to grind them down a bit though, but Discoverys have always had a carp turning circle, my Series 1 was not good either, it is one of the (IMHO very few) massive improvements with the D3, the things really can turn on a sixpence compared to the old ones, don't know what the difference is but it feels much much tighter.

"Excuse me madam would you mind standing on the tow hitch while we take a photo of the stand, I'm having trouble with the back wheels coming off the ground"

How do you melt steel in a vacuum?

What happens is that you go to buy one without checking the parts man says "which side" gives you the "right" one you get home find it isn't the "right one" and have to go back and get the opposite side Other than that, no disadvantage (Missing the obvious opportunity to try and persuade somebody that it makes the steering wheel turn the opposite way )

I have had my D2 since new (four years) got about 30k miles on it now, and I am very pleased with it, I am not looking to change any time soon. Only significant problems with mine have been a new diff (faulty assembly - it was making a clattering noise when brand new - new diff under warranty), the steering box bolts came slightly loose (badly made bracket inside the chassis allowing flex of the chassis where the box bolts on, bolts done up VVVFT and not been a problem since!), a couple of viscous fan units, an occasional water leak into the interior (cross threaded bonnet hinge bolt, took ages to find it too ) and a very minor oil leak from the rear crank seal which is not bad enough to worry about fixing and has been there for a couple of years now. I have occasional bursts of Christmas tree lights from the ABS/ETC lights (about four or five times I think) but there has never been anything replaced so I don't worry about it. Likewise there is a slight coolant loss (fill it up to the mark and it loses a small amount) but it goes to about 1/2" below the mark and never any lower so I don't worry about that either.... I deliberately went for non ACE and non SLS because I don't like whizzy electric bits stuck underneath where they get permanently plastered with water and cr&p, and given that a vehicle I know that is the same age as mine has had problems with both systems, I don't regret that decision I have never found the lack of ACE to be a problem, the S2 is much much better than the old one I had even though that had uprated springs and gas shocks fitted, and in fact I prefer the non ACE as I have driven them back to back on the same roads and I found the ACE vehicle had a noticeably more "fidgety" ride which I could only put down to the stiffness of the bars. The V8 is wonderful and the auto box, while it has some odd quirks (torque converter lockup is too early in my opinion and you really want a button to inhibit it completely as sometimes climbing long hills it is annoying), generally matches it well. Talking about Td5s though, having driven both manual and auto I would go for manual every time as I think the auto Td5 is revvy and seems underpowered but others disagree. The main things to look out for have mostly been covered, just check all the electrics work (windows & central locking) as water leaks into the fuse box control unit can lead to some odd things getting blown up and a full set of new door lock actuators ain't cheap... I really do recommend the S2 as an excellent all-rounder and frankly the only thing that regularly annoys me about mine is the poor turning circle. Four years on it still has the Grin Factor for me despite an 88% increase in petrol prices over that period

Can't help you with that one I am afraid - I have ony seen one EDC vehicle and the EDC was broken not the immob....

Likewise - a job which it is good for. Also protects the top layer of the rope from UV I suppose.

The sleeving he sent for mine was about 2" in diameter, far too big

The new ones have "km" on them ... and edited to add the shoulder lugs go further up the sidewall I doubt you will find any of the old ones around now anyway, except for maybe used ones, they have been out of production for a few years AFAIK. I use a set of old ones (33x12.50R15) and a set of new ones (265/75R16) and I can't say I noticed much difference apart from the obvious benefit of 50" of tyre width in a boggy situation

I have driven a Discovery 3 with the new STTs on and they did hum a bit on the road but it was not too bad - probably about the same as BFG MTs I would guess, though not having tried both types on the same vehicle, I could not be sure. I looked at the ST's for my Discovery a couple of years ago but they weren't available in the size I wanted IIRC, so I stuck with BFG AT's. Nice pattern though, and the 17" STTs that fit the Discovery 3 seem like a good strong tyre carcass too, so if all Coopers are built like that then they ought to last.

10mm Dyneema on my Milemarker and I have lifted the back wheels off the ground trying to pull something (which I later discovered was attached to Australia with a spreader plate on the other side) out of the ground so it seems quite strong. It has been mangled up on the drum a number of times with no problems, pull out and give it a shake and it is OK. So no complaints from me, never tried any of the others. And I don't own a seat either, apart from the ones in my Discovery and 90