BogMonster

1989 to March 1994 = 200Tdi March 1994 to mid/late 1998 = 300Tdi late 1998 to 2004 = Td5

What's the point in being a frog that can't swim?

Yeah you can but rivers don't hit the engine with 1500psi behind them Senders like oil pressure sender etc, also don't direct it at seals and joints, things like that.

Interesting - when is the official UK launch of the new model? I guess it should be fairly soon....

So you sit in the garage with the engine running thinking "mmm chips"

Superb The best bit is that he points out in the ad that it is not worth £20 and yet there is a bid of £181 on it. Are there some daft people about or wot?

In that case I would say no way it will be the original belt, I doubt you would have doubled the change interval (which is five years) based on the ones I have seen. But it might be five years old which means time to break open the piggy bank

Blimey having read what Bush65 wrote I thought to myself "and people moan about LR being unreliable"!!!

Show off

If in doubt change it I would say! Age is as big an enemy as mileage, how old is the vehicle? At work I have seen several go ping at about seven years old, because at about that age the belts are pretty perished and what happens is usually that they don't break, they just lose all the teeth along about 6" or so of the belt, and the engine stops with much the same expensive crunch as you get with a broken belt Personally mine's getting done no later than four years, the vehicle only has 16000 miles on it (2.5 years old now) but I ain't risking it.

Adapted from 2 inches to 50mm with an angle grinder? Shouldn't take long to remove 0.8mm of metal

Good old Tdi you see, bust a cambelt on that and all you need is a few pushrods, this new fangled stuff is such rubbish

That's interesting - is this Zeus as in the purveyors of noisy cogs of (allegedly) questionable integrity for fitting on the front of one's engine? Seems like a good idea - I have had a problem getting one of mine resealed in the past because of the state of the shaft.

I bet it cost more than 99.9p a litre too

Hmm the expression "a short cut is the longest distance between two points" springs to mind

Two V6s must be a W12 didn't somebody make a W12 engine recently, is that the next upgrade? Sit down and have a drink, some of this should do PS how much do the boots weigh if they have toe caps of 12mm plate?

Probably the regulator but you can check it with a digital voltmeter - voltage at the battery should be about 14.2-14.4V with a few revs on (say 2000rpm) if it is less than 14V then there is a problem and if less than 13V then it is definitely knackered. Not sure at what voltage the light comes on though. Personally I can't be bothered fixing things like alternators, new ones aren't that expensive and if the regulator is on the blink there is a good chance that bearings and things will be past their best as well. But many people do recon them to save a few £

The Tdi injector pumps are all Bosch VE ones AFAIK. I don't know how they react to putting chip fat through them though...

I run my tyres on the D2 at about 24 front 30 rear to give a better ride on rough roads and there are no handling problems at those pressures No motorways here though!

Lick it and see if you keel over?

Borrowed from RIBnet: video Mmm really sensible....

ooOOOoooh Kleenex

Why would you want a colour photo of Richard Green?

From what I have read about them it appeared that the problem may not really have been the engine itself, but the people who put them together and sold them in this country ... allegedly Curiously, said company whose name I won't mention (but it might appear above) had big shiny adverts in all the mags, a bit like another present-day company whose customer backup perhaps leaves a little to be desired I think it is the same basic engine as the Hummer has in it and presumably that vehicles wouldn't have won the military selection trials if the engines blew up every 5 min? just my thoughts