Landrovernuts

Ivan - check the air flow meter. Toby

I forgot about that! Toby

I am not sure about this but do the Disco 2 Tboxes not need the rear output housing to be changed to allow the speedo to be connected? Toby

On the motorway now, mine is doing 2400RPM at an indicated 70MPH - which makes it so much nicer to drive now with a sweet spot at 75 mph (where possible!). Rev counter and speedo matches Nanocom, but speedo could still be out depending on tyres. I am running fairly new 265/75. As I said before it still pulls 5th easily and climbs Haldon Hill outside Exeter in 5th at 70 mph, but does need 4th with the trailer on the back. It is chipped, but no idea by who. I have a 28D Tbox (RRC) rebuilt by Ashcrofts and it fitted straight on. The High low switch cannot be connected but was not on the original Tbox anyway. You will probably find that it has been changed to stay in low ratio on the ECU by connecting to earth. I tried mine earthed out and then disconnected and it improved the throttle response when left disconnected. Toby

I have a 110 TD5 double cab and one of the best things I have done is fitting the 1.22 transfer box. Despite the increase in the gearing, it still pulls well in 5th even with our Ifor Williams trailer on the back. I did notice he fuel economy improved but cannot quantify this. My neighbour did comment on the fact I had cobwebs growing over my fuel cap!! As for the vibration, I also have this and appears to be a TD5 issue. Changing my clutch and flywheel made no difference! Toby

If it is the shorter version of the above, i found it was the same as a 3.9 V8 hotwire air flow meter to plenum bendy pipe. Toby

I have purchased an all singing all dancing brand new head unit. Fitted it and no radio!! It is DAB and thinking I may just get an aerial for this instead! I will take the FM aerial off today and try another other than that I am really stumped now. Toby

Home again now. I turned the radio on and managed to get one local radio station with only a little static noise after letting it have a search. Unplugged the aerial and got nothing. Connect a length of wire as Bowie suggested and got the same station as before and nothing else so looking like the head unit is toast, so time to get another!

No LED's (yet!) and no other changes. I have a USB charger plugged into the cigarette lighter but have always had that and didnt stop the radio working before. As for other work done during the chassis change not that I know of. The head unit is a possibility and something I wil look into when I get home. Hope it is not as it is a good Sony one - but even good ones fail at some point. Toby

Just FM. I have put a separate ground from the aerial base and it made no difference. Will have another go with Bowie’s make shift aerial and try another head unit when I get back from work in two weeks.

Thanks - I will have to try when I get home. Got to go to South Africa for work again. Toby

Can anyone help with a radio signal problem? Ever since I have had the chassis done on my 110, the radio recption has been rubbish to non existant. I thought that the aerial may have been damaged so got another plug and rethreaded the cable behind the dash and plugged it straight to the radio - better but not right. I checked the earth at the aerial end, and no problem. I then got one of those cheap boosters and wired it into a 12V ignition feed - no change! Then I broke the aerial (one of those pull out ones) so got a smaller rubber one just to try - again no change. I know I live in an area where radio reception is poor, but I always used to get it and now very little - just electrical noise even with the engine off. Please can someone let me know how to get my radio reception back?!! I was thinking of getting a longer whip type aerial next but fear it will still be the same. Toby

And me...

Oh yes! The only issue now seems to be the oil pressure switch has given up again - third one since I have owned it! Definetley got oil pressure as I have a gauge fitted. I may have to do some investigation into this when work allows. I did manage to do it without putting the crank timing pin in as someone has totally knackered the plug in the bell housing. Next job when I have some time is to get this bugger out! Toby

Quick update! I started to remove everything on to get the head off on the drivers side then swapped to the passenger side to find not only was the plug/bung leaking but it was only finger tight!!! Since I was so close to getting the head off, I whipped it off (understatement!) gave it a good clean checked the valves, removed, tested the glow plugs - all good and injectors all out, cleaned and resealed. Cylinders all looked pretty much like now with honing marks clearly visible and the piston tops also looked deposite free and like new. When the head was off there was a few issues with cable/pipe/coolant pipe routing and clips not done up/reattached that I found and must have been from when the cowboys did the chassis change. Put it all back together and it is running really well and holding coolant again - always a bonus. I think however putting the correct injector codes has made the biggest difference - smoothed it right out. Not sure why they were wrong but will have to blame the previous owner as I have had the injectors out to do the seals before but they went back where they came from (prior to owning a Nanocom). There was only one correct code and that was in the wrong position also two codes started with a "C" and all I have seen before start with an "N". I did burn my arms and legs in the sun though, not that I am complaining about the weather. With frequent oil changes we should be good for the next 120K now! Toby

I must have been having a blond moment as taking all the covers shows a bung/plug as expected. Without taking the manifold gasket off though I cannot really see if the leak is from there or no though. I will just get all the bits and do the plug first and if not continue with the head gasket! Toby

I had every intention of removing the heater plugs and injectors. I want to test the plugs as I am not so sure they are working. As for injectors, I keep genuine washers and seals on the shelf. It seems after moving on from V8's, I am now collecting spares for TD5's - I must get rid of all this V8 stuff now!! I have the timing pins and as of yesterday a workshop manual. As for the bung, I am pretty convinced my head does not have it. I am going out in a moment to whip the covers off again and have another look, as the leak is definetly in that area right above the oil cooler. Toby

Afternoon All Looks like I have the dreaded coolant leak from head gasket below the exhaust manifold. I am 99.99% confident it is here and not the oil cooler and also not the plug in the head as my head does not have the plug in the middle between exhaust ports (15P engine) - not sure if that is normal or not! Engine not using oil and running well. Cylinder balance all good on Nanocom at idle and seems to be running well with no excessive coolant pressurisation. As such reasonably confident it is just the gasket let go between a coolant port and atmosphere. I am fairly sure it is not coming from the exhaust as none of the exhaust ports are steam cleaned (I have had the manifold off since my coolant leakage started and all looks fine). I am a Marine Engineer and have no issues doing the job myself (and have all the tools), but just want to ask for any tips before doing? I have seen a few write ups on the tinterweb and the only real issue I see is how you stop the timing chain dropping off the crank sprocket when you undo the hydraulic tensioner - or is it that it the top sprocket just cannot drop far enough? Other than that seems easy enough although not quite as easy as a Wartsila! I will get a head gasket (Elring 3 hole), top end gasket set and a set of head bolts next week, however any tips gratefully received - I have not worked on such a small engine for ages!! Toby

I found the standard 110 front springs too soft with the weight of a winch and winch bumper. I have NRC9449 fitted to both sides at the front and RKB100111 at the rear. I have no experience with the Koni's but hear they are good, I have Bilsteins fitted and have no complaints. Suspension is one of those subjects that everyone has different opinions on, but the above seems a reasonable set up and handles a fair weight with ease and seems supple enough when not loaded not to shake your fillings out! Above all it does not cost the earth! As for the spring isolators the part number is ANR2938 - you know they will only fit the front of a 110? Toby

Sorry - 2002 TD5 110. I may have to make my own - I was just being lazy! Toby

Can anyone give me the part number for the brake pipe which runs from the master cylinder to the front off side flexible? It is only a short pipe but I have been quoted £133 today and that was Britpart, but I didn’t get the part number! Toby

Working on that very subject now!

All I can say is lesson learnt - I do most, if not all, of the work myself normally and it has just reminded me of the reason why. Toby

I have got the old girl back at last and as expected there are a few issues that have cropped up in the 45 minute drive home! The clutch does not do anything until half travel on the pedal, brake pipes have all sprung and poped the clips from the chassis (need to get new clips as they used the old ones), master cylinder to flexy brake pipe is bent to buggery and needs replacing, turbo inlet pipe not attached (howled like a 747). These are all fixable and on my list to do! One problem that I do have is that the new chassis does not have the brackets to fit the gaurd around the fuel filter and considering where it is on a TD5, I would quite like to refit it - anyone got a solution to this? Other than that all seems good (touching wood!) and soon it will be time to start on the next issues - doors!!! Toby

I did the swivels on my 110 two years ago and I was told by my local spares emporium to ask for the Britpart kits but to add a G onto the end of the part number. With get trepidation, I did this and found inside the blue box genuine swivel housings (in the Land Rover box!!) Corteco seals and Timken bearings. The supplied grease was Britpart though, but binned it in favour of EP140. Two years later they still hold oil - jobs a goodun! Toby