Landrovernuts

Sorry forgot to add the pictures!

Hi All I have posted in the International as this a carb question and not just series related - moderators please move if needed. In my new found enthusiasm for getting my Series 1 back up and running, I was rummaging through my spares and found an SU carb that was previously attached to another Series 1 I have owned in the past. The engine never ran right because it was simply worn out with no compression and used more oil than petrol, but it did have an SU on it that I kept. Now because I have a better liking for SU carbs over the Solex that were originally fitted with I am thinking it may be an interesting little project to put on my present Series 1 which has a 1997 spreadbore engine that was completely rebuilt 22,000 miles ago. The question is what did this carb come from? I thought it may have been from a P4 engine but they are side draught. From the way the fuel bowl is mounted it looks like it was originally a downdraught carb but the way of adding oil to the dashpot does not look very original!! The carb is an 1 1/4 inch bore. The carb is all free and despite its present looks is actually not in bad condition. I would still like to give it a strip down and clean up (new needle valve, spindle bushes, seals etc) but what does it come from - may well make getting bits easier? I may have to send Burnlen the pictures but thought I would ask here first. Toby

It lives - coil was knackered. Runs very lumpy and suspect the carb is fill of s...t. Moving in the right direction. Brakes, dynamo, clutch fuel pump (running off a temporary supply of fresh petrol at the minute) and we may be getting somewhere! Toby

Thanks - I didnt know the master cylinders were hard to get. This will be the third it has had! Toby

Thanks - I cannot get to it until next weekend again now but will try again then. Points are OK but no spark across them if you open them manually. I have got some new plugs, new points and condenser coming. I think I may just get a coil as they are not expensive. The other puzzeling thing is the charge light is not coming on when you turn the ignition on (oil light was disconnected in favour of a gauge) almost like the feed from the switch is not working so may have to investigate that and sounds like it is it is part of the problem. wipers work though when ignition is on! Wiring loom was new when rebuilt so cannot be too serious a problem!!! As for the series 1, yes an 88" with the original paint work (scrubs up well though), but total nut and bolt job done on everything other than the body. It was my first car and I first drove in when I lived on the middle of Exmoor when was 11 (I have owned it since 1984 - my father said it was cheaper than buying a radio control car!!). The brakes are seized at the minute, but a new master cylinder and wheel cylinders should sort that. Every thing else seems ok - surprising for so long in storage. Toby

Is CB negative and the ignition feed positive on the coil? If so, that is how my poorly functioning brain told me to do, but still no spark. Ammeter does not dip either when the ignition is turned on (used to slightly) - suspect coil? Toby

Morning All I have recently got my series 1 out of long term storage (since 1992). I am trying to get it running again and have an issue with the coil wiring - what is the correct way to wire the coil on a positive earth system as my brain is struggling this morning?!! Toby

I have not had any issues with my Marsland chassis either although the person that changed it said it was out of alignment which has since been proved as not the case. Yes the Marslands chassis comes from GKN and as part of the issues I have with my so called expert chassis changer (more an egg spurt), I had an Certificate of Authenticity supplied by GKN. When I ordered my chassis it only took 3 weeks before it was ready, but that was two years ago and I was offered the choice of rear crossmembers. Toby

I have exactly the same issue on my TD5. I thought it was the rocker cover gasket and replaced it a couple of times before I looked into the problem abit deeper where I found that I have a small leak on my cam carrier joint right at the very back of the engine. This drips down the back and ends up dripping from the bell housing like the crank seal has gone. As my leak is just an occasional drip it is staying like it at present as it is a head off job to fix (head bolts go through the cam carrier). Toby

That makes absolute sense. Thanks. Toby

Hi All Can anyone let me know if there is a low pressure clutch inhibit (or anything else) that will stop the AC clutch from operating on a 2002 defender TD5? After last years chassis change, the wife would now like the AC functional again and since the system was degassed I have purchased a new dryer and will fit it just before the system is recharged. New O rings have been fitted to the pipe flanges and other than filling with gas I should be ready to go for nitrogen purge, leak test and some Freon. So I thought I would just test it all worked and cannot get the AC compressor clutch to operate. Evaporator fan all works and I have checked the condenser fan and compressor clutch with the Nanocom on test and all works perfectly for the duration of the test. I assume from this that the circuits are all good but something is telling the clutch not to operate when I operate the temperature control and fan switch. I did swap the fan relay and clutch relays around and carried out some brief electrical testing for live feeds etc and all seems good but not knowing the system very well, I thought I would ask here before I look deeper! Toby

The turbo also looks like it was full of water!!

I have just fitted one and have to say the clutch in now as light as my wife’s Audi ( it was bloody heavy before) The instructions say on 5 minutes to fit - took me an hour with lots of swearing, but well worth it. Toby

A friends Defender TD5 got a problem with the immobiliser and would start run for a couple of seconds then stop. We didnt have access to a Nanaocom at the time and it ended up at the stealers. Apparently the engine will start and look for the code from the fob, if it doesnt find it in a couple of seconds it cuts the engine. Toby

Try a stone or something else caught between the shield and the brake disc. Toby

I used a series 3 diesel filter on my V8 ninety for 10 years and a similar filter on my petrol series 1 since 1987 with no problem. Toby

The CV jointed shaft I had made used an SD1 joint at each end which didnt work very well. This was changed to UJ at the diff end and still didnt work!! As you have already pointed out the Toyota double hooks joint, this was welded in, balanced and worked brilliantly so much so I had a spare made which is under another V890 now. They are greasable (including the centre bearing) and, so far I believe, indestructable! The flange bolt PCD needed altering slightly to fit the Landrover PCD, but was easy to do. Toby

As another alternative, HJ Chards in Feeder Road Bristol have always done me proud for propshafts and will supply most if not all bits you could need. They even made me a CV jointed prop for a V8 90 back in the early 1990's. http://www.prop-shaft.com/

Just waiting for the concrete to set so I can get into my workshop then I will tackle it. Toby

Thanks - I thought it was more challenging than that!! May be that is why it seems to be a source of so many squeaks! Toby

I need to get the air conditioning panel including the fan and evaporator out my 2002 TD5 so I can get to the lower heater box bolts and get it out to replace the bulkhead seal. The air conditioning has been degassed and the refrigerant pipes into the footwell have been disconnected, has any one got an idiots guide to removing the panel that goes full width of the lower dash at knee height? I am sure I have seen one somewhere but cannot find it now. Toby

Complete new filter head didn’t fix it, but a new regulator did. Got another starting problem now but I am sure that is a power problem to the glow plugs! Toby

I have a 2002 (January) TD5 110 double cab and think LR were using production line stock up at the time. It has a 15P engine but as I found when doing the headgasket back in the summer it had plastic head dowels. Amoungst other things it has a Salisbury axle, but also has the front discs, larger calipers and larger pads on the back. So I think the change over was slightly earlier than the change to the short nose axle - so 2001 may be correct for the change over. Toby

Looks like a split case LT85 gearbox.

Ivan It used to have all sorts of issues when I first converted it to EFI and forked our for the NAS cables and robbing the transducer off my old RRC solved the issues. The fact you also think it may be running rich suggests it may have an issue which is masking the stalling. Connecting direct to the ecu as above seems a no brainer though and wish I knew that when I converted it! I would check everything else also though. I am away at the moment, but still have temp sensors (water and fuel), stepper motors, air flow meters etc. Since I have defected to TD5 power I am more than happy to let you have them all. They have been stored in an old shed (dry) since and they may need testing before you use them though. Toby