Landrovernuts

Loads of end float and you can lift the intermediate gear slightly on the rear end. I will be in touch for a recon box next week!

Yes, with a tad of bearing rumble mixed in! Starts about 35mph and continues to 60mph, after that it goes quiet again. I have just put it back together and filled with oil so I can move it under its own steam while I think what to do now. Toby

Well, made it home with it still howling! I removed each shaft propshaft this morning and still the same. So drained the oil which came out clean with no more than normal filings on the drain plug magnet and then removed the bottom cover to find the intermediate gear loose on the shaft. It looks like the rear bearing outer race has collapsed and canted over which explains the racket. Not sure weather to remove and fit new bearings spacer etc or to get an exchange Tbox as while the box was overhauled last year (by me and not my first one either!), the rear output bearing failed shortly after fitting and now this one begs the question of what quality bearings I fitted. If I was to repair, what would go next? The box was quiet and leak free but I am also concerned if I get it to bits again, what other damage there is that I cannot see. Repair or recon (probably Ashcroft) than - opinions please? Toby

My Defender has been running really well recently and as such should have suspected something was going to go wrong soon! I have recently done a few long trips in it which is much easier now with the legs of a 1.22 transfer box. There have been no noises maifestering either. Anyway to cut a long story short, we were loaded up and on the way to get the Plymouth ferry to France and the transfer box starts howling like the gears are slightly out of alignment. It gets no worse and we get to our destination. Due to limited tools, I borrow a 1/2" drive ratchet and check the oil - fine with only a very slight dribble coming out and not discoloured or burnt. I let off the handbrake and feel the very slightest movement on the outer part of the brake drum on the rear prop, but felt ok to me. I grab the front prop and it is quite stiff to turn - normally slack for a slight bit until the play is taken up. Quick look at the prop joints which I greased before leaving and all else seems ok. The noise starts at 35 mph, does it only when putting the power on and in 3rd, 4th and 5th. Noise also there in low ratio. we are driving home on Thursday - probably at a slower rate than we are used to. If we make it home I will take the props off one at a time and have a look through the bottom cover, but does anyone have any other ideas? Toby

I just went back out and they are working now! When I had my multimeter out earlier there was definetly no power on any of the wires on the grey connector at the park switch (i tried them all as I am colour blind). I thought the same about the washers working and the power to the switch. Would I be right in saying that in the fast position the motor has a direct feed and when on slow and intermitent that it goes through the relay? Hope I do not have an intermitent problem!! Toby

I stopped at a friends house today while it was raining and had the wipers on intermitant wipe. I turned the ignition off while the wipers were in the middle of a wipe, went in dropped my son off, came back out to find that my wipers will not start and are in the upright position. Up until now the wipers have never played up and do not believe this is a mechanical issue. I have checked the fuse and no problem. There is also power on the top fuse connection with the ignition on. I got home and took the dash corner off enough to get to the park switch however no matter what position the column wiper switch is in there is no power getting to the park switch plug. Then I thought column switch or relay. I do have power getting through to the washers (they work!) when you pull back on the switch but everything else appears dead. Would the general concensus of opinion be to get a new column switch and a new relay (I have AMR2341 fitted behind the dash binicle) or is there an easy way of testing which is broken without taking the column to bits? Any perils of wisdom gladly accepted as my grey matter in relation to electric items is not functioning today! Toby

Can anyone shed any light on a problem I have with my nearside rear door on my 2002 double cab, bofore I rip it to pieces? If you press the fob and unlock the vehicle the door opens perfectly provided you press the door handle button straight away. If you wait longer than 5 seconds or so the door will only open to the first position on the lock (pings open half inch or so and then stops on the final latch). Any ideas gratefully received before I wade in with spanners! Toby

It has survived two long journeys now - so looking good!

Wish me luck - I have just had to fit a Britpart top hose after blowing the internal threaded bleed nipple boss out of my one sitting in traffic in the middle of Exeter! It failed spectacularly with hot coolant everywhere and all I could get was a Britpart hose - needs must at the time. The main dealer was not interested, as Td5 is now too old for them to stock any fast moving parts - apparently! Toby

Not for me to say as it does not belong to me now, but it is not a 180hp 3.9. Toby

Ivan - try cutting the small back silencer/resonator join the pipe and retry it for noise then if you like it go for a whole stainless system in the bigger bore. The engine used to have the big bore JE manifolds, but I told you the story with them! As far as I know, as said above the RRC downpipes, are pretty good at flowing and the manifolds while not perfect are better than normal after carefull having them ported to match the heads. Toby

If it helps my engine is a 15P - not that I would think makes any difference for torque/power. I have a standard air filter and standard exhaust but do have the EGR removed and have a Serck motorsport intercooler fitted and runs boost pressures as above. As already mentioned it goes very well and pulls trailers with ease even with a discovery transfer box fitted. It does not smoke at all and when it was MOT'd, the tested couldn't even get a puff out of it (which supprised me to) and seems remarkably good on fuel - but then I had V8's before! Do you know what remap yours has had and what your friends has had as it may be unfair to compare if one is say a stage 1 and one a stage 2 for instance? Toby

As has been said above, there is no reason the boost pressure would have increased with the remap unless the wastegate has been tweaked. My Td5 normally boosted to 1 bar (14.5 psi) and giving it some welly up hill with a loaded trailer I very briefly saw 1.12 bar. This was on a Nanocom - I have no boost gauge. I think your intercooler just had enough! Toby

I am going out this afternoon with my TD5 and trailer - I will take the Nanocom and let you know what it boosts to. As for my remap, I am not sure as it was done by a previous owner, but it goes like a scaled cat. Toby

I didn't use a press, but did have a selection of brass dollies and a large vice with soft jaws. Toby

Easy to rebuild - especially with one of the overhaul kits you can get with all the bearings, sleeves, seals etc As for time, I rebuilt the last one significantly quicker than my first one, but probably took me a couple of days but did not work on it all the time. I am lucky I have a dishwasher in my workshop which saw plenty of action though! You have gone the other way to me - I have a 1.2 in my 110 now. Toby

I have a 10 alpine ARB which I have tried to sell which has only done around 10,000 miles since being rebuilt by Crown Differentials and only been used in anger a couple of times and I could not get £350 for it if that helps.

I found them a waste of time as they used to leak/sweat and then not being able to breath made things worse. I found a decent cap sealed with a smidge of silicon grease and a good set of leads was the best cure. At one point I made a small cover which bolted from one of the water pump bolts and somewhere else (memory failing!) made a difference to as it kept most of the spray from the fan away. Toby

I forgot to mention the shocks! When I bought my 110, it had been fitted with the plain Britpart black shocks and I was given the receipt at the time of sale, so know roughly when they were fitted. Anyway around 4 months later they were removed as they had absolutely no resistance and would suggest that any oil had long since disappeared - so a rubbish from me. I would never have fitted them!

Britpart front brake discs and warped really baby within 2000 miles - absolute rubbish. handbrake drum out of round so far that I could not adjust the handbrake to work without binding - absolute rubbish. swivel housings (kit) is working well so far and I have used oil and not grease - good, but it was only kit ( came with corteco seals, timken bearings and land rover swivel housings) cubby box cup holder - good!

Our emergency generators on many ships I have sailed on were started by hydraulics. They were charged by a small electric pump or by hand which took some doing to get them to 3000psi!! The problem with them is when the bladders in the accumulators leak the nitrogen out the hydraulics only turn the engine one turn if you are lucky!!! No you cannot hand start a 1000kw v12 engine!

Too big for my small lathe! It is new so going back. I did wonder if it had been dropped, but there was no marks to suggest this. Think I will just put it down as another blue box issue. I have the drum off at the moment and it drives much smoother - may be I should save for an X-brake!

I did think about checking on the outside of the drum may be an issue, however it is a machined surface, but whether concentric to the inside surface is another thing! I was going to put in my lathe but it is slightly too big. I cannot mount it back to front as there is a machined chamfer on the inside where it fits over the drive flange which it does not have on the other side, so that scuppered that idea! The wear mark suggests that the internal surface is not round though. I was going to measure with some calipers but cannot for the life of me find the ones for measuring that size. Something else gone walkabouts! I did also think about machining it on a friends lathe, however then if there is only one high spot it would cause an imbalance and as pointed out it is new! Thanks for the offer of the drum Ralph, however a friend has just offered me one, however I will bear it in mind should that not materialise. I did think about putting in the defender section, but thought this was a common part with discos and RRC

Afternoon All I have been having fun and games with my 110 (2002) handbrake and now realise it is completely my fault in that I bought something in a blue box!! It turns out I cannot adjust the brake properly as it binds in one position. If I adjust the shoes away from the drum to stop the binding the brake only comes on at the very end of its travel and not very tight. Getting bored and frustrated (p....d off!) I put a DTI on the drive flange and got a maximum of 2 thou runout which in my own mind is expectable. I then put the drum (from the blue box!) on and did the nuts up evenly with spacer washers, to make sure it was tight, and I now have a run out of 45 thou (1.143mm) on the outside of the drum. I turned the drum through 180 degrees and got the same reading. Does anyone know what the maximum runout of the drum is? I did threw it all back together and adjusted it just so it was binding very, very lightly and went for a 6 mile drive. I came back dismantled it and guess what, there is a very slight wear mark on one side of the drum only, so it appears that blue box handbrake drums are carp also! I only thought I would go for the blue box item as it was all my local supplier had and I thought how can they mess up a brake drum!!!! So next week the drum goes back, however I am still interested in the max runout. I took a video on my phone of the DTI needle so there is now doubt which I will show them. Can anyone vouch for any other brands of handbrake drum? Toby

I have seen them and inertia starts (using the flywheel) on lifeboat engines and they worked very well.