=jon=

I know it's a vapour build at the moment, but I'd probably wait and see what the government decide - currently the London ULEZ will mean you have to pay an extra tenner a day in the congestion charge zone if your vehicle isn't euro 6 compliant if it's a diesel, or euro 4 for petrol cars. It may end up that older petrol cars get hammered by this as well

http://lrcat.com/31/4/53594 Looks like it goes behind where the radio sits... (part 6 on the above)

The second link is the same part as the first, just with a ridiculous price!

http://www.hoses.co.uk/images/2015catalogue/1407.pdf http://www.hoses.co.uk/washdown-fuelling/high-pressure-lubrication-system-equipment/remote-grease-system/2-point-remote-grease-system-high-pressure-lubrication-equipment £130 though!

Go to somewhere like Pirtek and ask them to make up a short flexible hose with a 1/4" male fitting on one end (to screw into a grease nipple sized hole) and a 1/4" female on the other end (to screw a standard grease nipple into)?

The VDO tach I have (unconnected) in the 110 has a setting for being connected to an alternator (as well as #cyls settings) with a calibration pot so you can tune it to read correctly if using the alternator...

Doug - that'd be helpful - thanks!

HoSS did the auto conversion on mine when he owned it - he made a nice centre console up from plywood with a cubby box, hole for the auto shifter / transfer shifter and a front panel that covers where the fuse box is (a bit more like a 'modern' 4x4) and covered it with trimming cloth. Looks pretty decent If you are handy at woodwork you could make something similar than much less than the crazy cost of the proper NAS part!

For the auto shifter, it should be cable operated, so you can put it wherever suits in the cabin. Ashcroft have a part listed that mounts the Disco shifter at the correct height (possibly from a NAS defender?): http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/miscellaneous/defender-auto-conversion-parts/shifter-mount-bracket.html However it's fairly straightforward to make your own mounting up. That's just easier if you are using the NAS centre console too. The Ashcroft site also lists some of the other parts you may need (clutch pedal blanking plate, larger brake pedal etc), which sometimes have LR part numbers listed or may give you inspiration for fabbing your own stuff up... http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/miscellaneous/defender-auto-conversion-parts.html

Hi Has anyone fitting multipoint LPG onto a Thor Inlet, and can share some pearls of wisdom about how and where they fitted the injectors? Looking on ebay at second hand manifolds, the norm appears to be to drill the lower section and fit the injectors on short pipes, eg: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-ROVER-P38-DISCOVERY-II-4-0-V8-LPG-CONVERSION-INLET-MANIFOLD-HRC2905-/142284739633?fits=Car+Make%3ALand+Rover&hash=item2120d4d431:g:epIAAOSwx6pYsl~f If there's some wisdom to be shared from past experience it'd be much appreciated

Before : Overrun Fuel Cut = on After : Overrun Fuel Cut = off

Tested this over the weekend, the jerky on/off throttle transitions have gone With regards to the cold start fuelling - I added a load to the Cranking Pulse values and now it starts nicely on petrol from cold - however the values seem high compared to what tunerstudio suggests is 'normal' : 10c = 500%, 20c = 400%. Is this usual, just a quirk of the v8?

From the article, you need to take a pic of the unit along with the first 3 digits of your reg number and mail it in to Foundry - no other info is needed... They've said that this applies to all sales models (direct from Foundry, from Si or from Paddock..).

The DB Power ones are clones of Foscam cameras. Which I believe are a clone of one of the other brands!

Agreed

Hi Not seen this posted here before, but it if you have an X-Eng pedal lock you need to get in contact with Foundry 4x4... https://4mud.co.uk/x-eng-pedal-lock-free-upgrade-important-information/ Cheers Jon

If you have to leave it with weight on the tyres, I'd pump them up hard - 50-60PSI dependant on the max on the side of the tyre. If you can get someone to move it round regularly so that the same bit isn't always at the bottom of each tyre that'd help prevent flatspots too.. Ideally I'd put axle stands underneath the axles so there's no weight on the tyres, and cover the tyres with something to prevent UV damage..

If you have a decent condition puma standard exhaust, I'd probably chop out the middle box and put a straight through one in. The standard LR exhaust is very heavy duty and the middle silencer is massive. If you don't want to chop up your exhaust, you can get new take off ones on ebay very cheap, you could then take it to a custom exhaust place and try a range of silencers to find one that suits your ears

I had some cheap IP cameras at my old house, with Zoneminder running on my server, and it worked pretty well. You could do unlimited pre/post record on motion detection, or do full 24/7 recording if you wanted with 'events' being highlighted. There was a notable jump in quality between the cheap camera (£40 foscam clone) and the better one (£100 Dahua). The cheap one could use wireless which worked OK, but the better one was wired only. It also supported Power over Ethernet so you only had to run one cable to it. If I was doing it from scratch again, I would get a load of Hikvision or Ubiquiti cameras, and feed them back to either a PC running ZoneMinder with lots of storage, or a NAS like a Synology. If the buildings were remote with power, I would have a look at using powerline networking to get it back to the server, set up a wifi network if that failed, or bury cat-5 if all else fails!

It's very dependant on which engine you have!

Worst case, would it be an option to put the thor inlet manifold & gubbins on it? The linkage sits right at the front of the engine then, so there's plenty of space to connect everything up...

I've not had a chance to take the laptop out yet and change it - it's on my list of jobs (along with fixing the cold start fuelling so it starts easily when it's sub zero)... As it spends 95% of it's time running on gas, it's only when it runs out and I have to switch back to petrol that it reminds me to sort the petrol fuelling out...

I have one of those. I replaced the standard FIA type with it as it started getting a bit iffy switching on/off sometimes, and I've heard that some thieves carry that kind of FIA key with them as they are common security measures on landies!

Thanks for your help

Decel Fuel Amount is currently 90% When it wams up a bit I'll go outside and have a play