=jon=

Morning All, I'm hoping to (finally) get round to swapping the 3.5 in my 110 to the 4.6 I've had in the shed for yonks over the christmas period. I'm busy making a shopping list of stuff I'm going to need (mainly from Fridge's swap thread) so I can get everything ready as sourcing parts may be a bit tougher while everyone is on hols... I've already got MS2 + EDIS fully working with a thor inlet, so that side of things should be reasonably straightforwards, and the new lump has the crank triggers etc. So far my shopping list consists of: Oil filters + break in oil 19mm hose x lots for making the various water hoses up New engine mounts, for while it's out. injector seals for when the fuel rails get swapped over. 16 x Seal - Fuel Injector - ERR7309 - Genuine 1870mm 7-vee serp belt (not using aircon) Some way of bodging the PAS pipes together Anyone know what the threads are so I can source the right compression fittings? I've got a remote oil filter + cooler so hopefully that will swap straight across.. Anything else I'm missing?

Thanks - I did think of the choc block connectors, I'll have to have a look and see if I can fit it over the existing lock/unlock rod... I do have a crimper, will have a look and see if I have some crimps that may work

Hi All I've been investigating why my central locking has been a bit iffy on one of the doors - it's an aftermarket kit made of up solenoids that have a rod that clamps to the standard lock/unlock bit on the door. The clamp that joins the two rods has broken up - looks like it's gone brittle and disintegrated. Any bright ideas on where to source a replacement? You can buy a new solenoid / kit fairly cheaply, but it's a bit of a waste when all I need is a tiny part of it... I've found one place that does them on their own, but they want £4.40 ea for them http://www.machine7.com/product.php?xProd=3318 Any other ideas?

OK - if the landy is starting and running and is reasonably drivable, then you probably have a spark map of some kind already First thing is to check that the MS and the physical hardware are reasonably in collusion with each other - in Tunerstudio go into Ignition Options, and there should be an option called 'fixed advance' - with a choice of 'table' (which will use the spark map in one of the 'ignition table' sections'), or 'fixed timing'. (I'm reading off an MS2E map, so the options may be slightly different) If you choose 'fixed timing', one of the other fields will ungrey itself (timing for fixed advance) and you can force the MS to spark on whatever value you put in there - so pick a value that lines up with one of the timing marks on the pulley. Then start her up, put the timing light on and check that whatever value is in MS lines up with what the pulley marks say. If they don't line up, you can adjust 'Trigger Angle Offset (deg)' up or down until they match up (so 10 BTDC in the MS lines up with the 10 BDTC mark on the pulley). Once you've done that, set Ignition Options / Fixed Advance back to 'use table' and check that the timing isn't still stuck at 10 (or whatever you set it at) and assuming your ignition map isn't all the same value, that the timing changes if you blip the throttle Now if you go back to tunerstudio, if you open up 'ignition table 1' - you should have a little circle hovering somewhere round the table - where is dependant on the current revs and vacuum, which moves around as you rev / drive / whatever - the point under that marker is whatever the timing is at that point. The table is probably something around 10ish bottom left hand corner, dropping as you go vertically and rising as you go horizontally. If you paste a pic of that table one of the grown ups who properly understand how to tune spark maps will be able to help

Are you talking about setting the base timing, or after a spark map? If you are running a distributor, normally you set the base timing up to whatever the book says - so at idle it's running at (eg.) 3 BTDC, normally by twisting the dizzy (with vac advance disconnected). A bit more twist changes the whole timing curve advanced or retarded. On the MS - you should lock the timing to a fixed value, then check that the mechanical timing with a light and make sure that the two match - so if MS 'thinks' it's running at 3 BTDC, mechanically that's correct. Then you set up your spark curve/map in software.

I'd probably pick up earths on the body side of the earth strap. If you are fitting a wideband o2 sensor make sure that the grounds for that go back to the same place as the MS ground can cause major issues...

Subscribing. I've got MS2 + EDIS at the moment on the 3.5, with a BLOS LPG gas carb. On gas there's a second spark map and a zero'd out fuel map. When the 4.6 goes in I'm going to swap to multi-point gas - although I'll use an LPG ECU to drive that, MS3 supports a different AFR target on the second map, so I should be able to run full closed loop fuelling and get a bit more economy out of it.. I've got MS3 on my turbo'd MX5 already, so know my way round the settings reasonably well already

My crystal ball predicts that it will be positioned as a 'lifestyle' vehicle somewhere size / cost wise between the Disco Sport and the Disco 5. If you look at the D5, it's nearly as posh as a RR inside, and apparently has lost the massive load areas that the D3/4 had. It's hardly the working vehicle that it used to be. They also cost a bomb. DIsco sport is a 'posh family SUV'. Not sure if there will be a SWB / LWB type offering, but I reckon there will be a county type version, and a pick up or DCPU at least. The DCPU may be a 1.5 cab type thing like is popular with the americans. I wouldn't really see it as a 'working' vehicle in the same way the old one was - the pick up will be similar to the new Merc pick up - a bit too posh to fill full of rubble, pitched at the site foreman who wants to be seen as a bit above the workers, but not give the impression that he's too good for a 'working' vehicle... Both versions will come with an assortment of LR Branded lifestyle accessories - bike rack, surf board rack, wicker picnic hamper with matching LR etched crystal champagne glasses etc for the man about town who obviously needs such a vehicle to advertise his exciting ourdoorsy weekend activities

I'd argue that most of us on here are driving Defenders or Series because they are noisy, rattly and a bit carp. We justify that by saying that they have 'character' - they bring a smile to your face when you get in it and turn the key, or when a little kid stares as you go past because it's a bit different. People see them as being 'cool' - if I take my 110 to work people comment on it, take the 322 and nobody bats an eyelid. LR can built something that has all the technological wizardry they want, built on a shared platform, etc etc etc - but unless LR retain that character/cool it's just another generic 4x4 vehicle that slots neatly into their range. I think Jeep have been very clever with the new Wrangler (dodgy welding aside) - they've updated it but all the Jeep fans still love them...

Looking at it again, it looks like a Disco 4 with the rear chopped off (DCPU) and a hastily constructed truckman-type top on the back, which as you say would be easy to mock up and conveniently timed to generate some publicity to take away from poor results

Maybe it's the facelifted Disco 5 rear end - they are getting rid of the blooming awful lopsided door

I reckon that's more likely to be the 2020 Range Rover refresh, than a new Defender... If you look at the front, it's similar to the current RR, and the boxing on the back would hide the sloping rear of a RR (although it does kind of look like it's a disguised pick up). The bonnet also looks like a clamshell design (although disguised) which is one of the big RR signature features...

If you are in Berks Real Steel are in Uxbridge and do loads of bits - they are also very helpful if you need to ask for advice about anything..

The chap on defender2.net has just taken delivery of his Shielder chassis and bulkhead, there's pics on the thread I linked above

Look neat and tidy, compared to a tatty old grommit... That said a split grommit would probably do the same job... I do actually get a fair draught from behind the instruments at full chat on the motorway...

Good thread - has got me wondering I should replace the rubbish / rotted out bulkhead grommits behind the instrument cluster with some new split grommits, or splash out on some fancy split cable glands: https://www.icotek.com/en-uk/product-catalogue/cable-glands/

I had an Iroda solderpro for a long time - it was very good, although some of the supplied tips were a bit iffy and got *way* too hot. By too hot I mean 'touch the solder on the reel and watch the solder instantly catch light and go off like a bomb fuse' 😲Swap to another tip which appeared the same and it was much better/cooler! I'm not sure if you can still get Iroda stuff any more - the gas adjuster has started leaking, Maplins were the main seller so guess it's defunct My Dad has one of the cheapy aldi gas irons: https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-mini-soldering-torch-kit/p/052152004497400 It's a bit bulkier but works fine, and you can't complain at the price!

At some point I've got a multipoint setup to fit (along with a 4.6) to do it all 'properly' - but with the BLOS it runs really nicely

Ahh - makes sense. When I swapped from the cooker ring to the BLOS carb I put a feed for the idle valve in between the BLOS and the throttle body to get round that. HoSS didn't use the valve when he originally set it up with the cooker ring as it was bolted straight onto the throttle body itself...

Interested as to why you say that - my Thor manifolded 3.5 has been running for many years first with a gas ring and now with a BLOS gas carb...

Motorsport / kit car places sell it as 'tank tape', or closed cell neoprene self adhesive foam on places like amazon / ebay

I wouldn't get it powder coated - water will get in/under the tiniest chip and it will all start to flake off

Hi I've been running a cheapo rubber duck aerial on the 110 for a while, and it's frankly rubbish. The mounting hole on the 110 is larger than the standard fitting, so I had to fit a penny washer underneath, which soon corroded and stopped the reception from being any good, and now it's all seized together so I'm going to have to get the grinder out to replace it I've had a look round for a decent quality aerial that fits properly, but all I can find is the Nakatanenga one at close to £100 Any other suggestions for something that will fit well (with the larger base size) at a less eye watering price, or have people had any success with cheapy ones and a flylead to earth the base well against the chassis? Plan is to run it with a DAB splitter so it'll do both FM and DAB in one go... Cheers Jon

If the 5.0 v8 is the same that's used in the full fat RR (albeit minus the blower) - then LPG is a lot more tricky as they are direct injection... As mentioned before cam chain tensioners cause issues on the FFs and it's a big bill to get it sorted..

I've always dealt with them over the phone, never had to go down there (although I go past the branch reasonably often..)