=jon=

I've no experience of any of the above listed LR specialist tuning companies, but you are very dependant on the skill of the person who did the original remapping (of the original vehicle for which the map for every other is based) - there are plenty of cowboys about who don't really know what they are doing, which can result in severe engine damage... Do plenty of research and look for independant third party opinions before you make a choice. A 'crappy' remap will just wind the boost up which would take the mapper a few minutes, a decent one will have tens of hours of tuning the fuelling across the whole rev range, as well as increases to the boost pressure to give the best results, and will retain the safeguards & safety margins that LR put in as every engine is slightly different... Also don't necessarily be swayed by claims of huge power increases - especially on something like a LR, low and midrange drivability is more important than peak power at the rev limiter...

I believe Armstrong are what LR fit in the factory from new (pretty sure they did on the series, possibly defender too)..

Do you know if the petrol Omega's used the same gearbox as the 2.5 diesels? IIRC they had a derivative of the BMW 6cyl diseasel in it, which was also fitted to RR's and some SA defenders... May be a source for conversion parts...

Not really - I've been discussing it on and off with TSD via PM for about 6 months now, and still haven't got any of the other bits- a week or so won't really make a lot of difference!

If you do, I'd be happy to have it off your hands for a reasonable consideration

Thanks for the feedback TSD - your thread (and build pages) have been my reference and inspiration for a while now Which mark escort is the timing wheel from, can you remember?

Packaging and conformity mainly - if it's a standard component and on board then they are all the same - so the firmware/software can be simpler. With the ECU in my other car, the sensor is external, and you can use any type - but you have to go through a calibration process to define it when you set it up initially. In theory the pipe run should be short, but someone on the MS forums did some testing and pretty much proved that the length of pipe between the manifold and sensor didn't really make any difference to the results...

Alternative ebay vendors of edis6 packs are available you know I think the EFI cars were all Cologne v6's, not Essex, but I'll have a check...

OK - this is the kind of info that I'm after For the injectors - the only option is throttle body injection, so there's only 2 injectors, so not so much of an issue.. For a MAP sensor I think you use an external one - bosch or similar... I've PM'd Nige already as he seems to have a load of v6 EDIS units on ebay at the moment

Hi, In my oddball 90 I have a ford essex v6, currently running an electronic dizzy and a weber twin choke carb - it goes reasonably well, makes a rather nice noise but is only slightly more economical than an RV8... One of of the ways of hopefully getting a bit more grunt and a bit more mpg (although I'm not hoping for miracles ) is to go for megasquirt... I should be able to get a trigger wheel and sensor for the crank, ford v6 EDIS which will take care of the ignition side, and potentially a yank throttle body injection unit at some point in the future to replace the carb. With that in mind, looking round microsquirt systems seem to be pretty cheap - £250 pre-built vs. £400odd for a full fat one. Will the microsquirt run everything I want to OK? I know it's cut down a bit but don't want to end up crippling myself... I'm not hugely up on MS, but understand standalone ECU systems from my other toy, a turbo'd MX5 which is running an alternative full standalone ECU Any advice appreciated! Thanks Jon

Might be worth a look next time you are in your preferred magazine vendor : http://www.classiclandrover.com/ "Put simply, Classic Land Rover has no bling, just leafers and early coilers!" I bought a copy but haven't had chance for a proper look so far

I had a similar problem with brakes locking on randomly with blue box wheel cylinders - they failed internally so would lock on - you'd fiddle with the snail cam and they'd free up, until the next time you hit the brake pedal with reasonable force... Might be worth adding to the list of things to check..

I got 5L NATO Green Satin for £31 from e-paintbay on ebay. Seemed OK to me, but haven't used that much of it (door and bulkhead top).

I used to have a link to a big section of the Series2 forum where there's loads of info on it - but I think the forum has moved. It would be worth a look on there if you can find it... Found it - http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php/board,59.0.html

All the best Jason, glad you are on the mend Let me know when you feel up for a cuppa and a natter, I promise not to cause anguish by parking the LC in front of the house again (should be easy, cos it's gone - but replaced with something else non Solihull-esque!)

You sir, are an absolute legend - I was trying to work out how to do exactly this a few weeks ago!

http://www.repairmylandrover.co.uk/defender-repairguides/guide-to-defender-door-lock-barrel-replacement

Mine's a 2400v2, according to the sticker on the side

I can't remember if mine's a 2400 or a 2450, I'll go and have a double check in a bit... I rate mine whichever one it is..

Take the bulb out of the low fuel warning light I think the general consensus is they all do that! Mine certainly does...

I've got a Sealey 24v one as per: http://www.tooled-up.com/product/sealey-24v-cordless-impact-wrench-1-2-square-drive-325lb.ft-1-battery/142701/ I rate it - has enough grunt to undo series wheelnuts which have a habit of tightening themselves up over time. Power drops off quite quickly as the battery goes down though, but you get a quick charger with it..

They are mods, yes. I bought them second hand from another forum - I looked for a stamp with the offset but couldn't see anything, although I didn't get as far as whipping a wheel off and checking the back.... If noone makes anything standard looking I guess it's raid the piggy bank time

It'd be very close on mine - with insa dakars (BFG mud pattern) the tread extends out a long way too... I'd rather spend a few quid on some arches than potentially a fine / points for being borderline! Other option is to replace the wheels/tyres, but that's kinda overkill!

Typical Some chappy at the Newbury show was selling a set of 2" extended arches that looked completely standard fitment, they were £60 but by the time I'd wandered round for a bit and gone back they'd gone... So I guess they must exist out there, somewhere!

Hi, I changed wheels a while back, and while I was round at Jason's a while back he pointed out that they were slightly (!!) protruding past the arches, so were technically illegal... It looks like it's the offset / width of the rims as they are only 265 tyres, and rather than have to spend a fortune on a new setup, I was looking at the options for extended arches. I've found ones similar to these ones: http://www.paddockspares.com/pm789-defender-extended-arches-2-inch-wider-than-standard-set-of-4.html Do they require trimming of the metal to get them to fit? Ideally I want something more 'standard' looking but 2" or so wider rather than bolt on type ones... Any other suggestions? Cheers Jon