=jon=

No rush - it's only a panel to either chop up or keep as a complete spare when I put my winch and bumper on

Ross works just round the corner from my house, so the last leg shouldn't be an issue

No rush - if you can help Ross that'd be great

Have to love the subtitles!!

I did look into it - but LRSeries shows conflicting info for which switches fit which - with some listed as fitting both 2.5 petrols and diesels, and some just for the diesels, eg: http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/1608/579085-IGNITION-SWITCH-ASSY.html?search=ignition%20switch&page=1 From what I can tell the diesel switches should have two spring loaded positions - ignition on, then sprung loaded for glowplugs, then a second for cranking. Mine's got one as per a 'normal' car for cranking only... Mine seems to be a bit of a bitsa 90, with it's non military 2.5NAD VIN, Ford petrol engine and all sorts of other bits changed around, so I'm never sure what's original and what's not! The 2 diodes only cost me a quid and look to have sorted it, so I can't really complain!

A trip to Maplin today yielded some big diodes, which are now wired in parallel across the ballast resistor, so now the fuel pump and electronic dizzy module sees 12v on cranking instead of 6v! When I go megasquirt I can reuse it to provide proper power for that too

Nope! Just looking for a wire that's +ve on ignition and cranking! I would have thought it would have cropped up before as it'd be needed for megasquirt and alarm installs - currently the only way I can think of doing it is with diodes on the ignition feed and from the starter solenoid. Looking at the wiring guide, it seems that the V8's have a complex system to feed the fuel pump while cranking off the starter feed via the oil pressure switch, which mine doesn't have...

I suppose a big diode across the ballast resistor would work - so in normal operation the juice is forced through the ballast, under cranking it can go via the diode to provide 12v to the fuel pump... Does my logic seem sound?

Hmmm - bum One way to get round it would be to swap the ballast coil for a non ballast one, as then the pump would get a proper 12v on cranking, not 6v... Landies are never easy are they!

Hi, Quick question - I'm looking for a +12v feed, switched on the ignition that also stays live when cranking. I've metered out the back of the ignition switch - the switched feed drops when you turn it to the crank position... Any suggestions? If it makes any difference, it started off life as a 90 NAD, now it's got a petrol fitted. The coil / fuel pump feed is off the back of the ignition switch, with another feed from somewhere else on the loom powering the coil direct when cranking (bypassing the ballast resistor). It looks like the fuel pump is powered through the ballast resistor, so only gets 6v when cranking... Any suggestions? Cheers Jon

A bilge blower is better than a series heater fan, but not as good as a defender one

The blower on my 90 is actually pretty decent - after I figured out the switch wouldn't go to the second position! After some adjustments full speed was restored.. I think the full speed setting is 12v to the fan so changing the resistor won't make any difference...

Quick update - I bought some mass loaded vinyl, insulating felt and waterproof insulation from the link I posted for my family car (subaru forester) as it suffered badly from road noise. I did the wheelarches inside, under the carpets, in all the door cavities etc and it's made a big difference both to the road noise and the solidity of the panels

If it's £45 and is either no brand or comes in a blue box, I would be quite wary - I've read some horror stories about cheap pattern part steering components..

I think a lot of the Midland ones and a few others can be 'tweaked' - there's plenty of info online

Do you want to be able to talk to other people on the lanes? If so, you'll need CB type ones, which will probably go over your budget. If not, you could get away with PMR446 radios, which are the low powered ones you can pick up from loads of places. They are much lower powered than CB though, and run on different frequencies so incompatible. I've got a set of Midland G7s that I picked up cheap from Maplins a while back for when I'm snowboarding - it looks like you can get them for about £50 a pair if you hunt around. As said PMR is much lower powered than CB (500mw or so vs 4W), and therefore have less range, but the midlands can be boosted by chopping a link inside to transmit at 5W if you happen to live in a country where full power PMR is allowed...

Dynamat doesn't really block sound though, it stops panel rattle so may not make a huge amount of difference... These guys: http://www.carinsulation.co.uk/page/vehicle_soundproofing_faq seem pretty reasonable for no name / unbranded supplies including loads specific for the engine bay... I was thinking of buying one of their kits for my day to day car to cut out road noise...

It's probably worth ringing the Thatcham branch of A-Plan (01635 874646), as they have a specialist 4x4 department They were very competitive for my 90 last year

Even if it's not leaking, the air temp difference and the cold metal roof will cause condensation... The best way is to line the roof somehow - I used laminate floor underlay (1mm thick plastic closed cell foam type stuff) with spray adhesive, it helped a lot... But make sure you use high temp adhesive or it'll all fall off in the summer!

Side window demister vents that fit on the existing dashboard vents, that don't cost an absolutely ridiculous amount of money...

Just for reference - FTC3375 are M12 x 35 pitch (metric fine) thread Up to chassis number KA930455 (1994) use AFU1031 from what I can tell, which is M12 x 40 pitch (metric coarse)

I've got a trailer with a hand winch on it The ramps are at my folks place though - you can possibly winch a 90 up onto it without them though, but I could probably fetch at the weekend..

Thanks for the feedback. TSD : That's much appreciated, thanks!

I'll prob stick a knock sensor of some form or another on it as well, to warn me should anything go amiss! I've probably got a 4 wire bosch lambda in the shed somewhere...

Good point. I could probably get away with one as the exhaust joins before the gearbox, and with only 2 injectors I doubt I could trim by bank anyway. Will MS do fuel trims OK on a narrowband, or is a wideband a lot better for the initial setup? I could probably pinch the wideband + controller from my other car if really needed...