Daan

That certainly works. You are not actually meant to have full load onto the splice point. I have the M5 (or M6) as well, if you use a 12.9 caphead, it should be ok You are meant to have 3 wraps around the drum minimum and put a wrap around this so you cannot unspool further than this. Not that anyone does that though. Daan

splice the rope into an eye, and use the bolt that you have for the original eye. The bolt with a penny washer secures it. Have done this for years on my EP9. Increasing the friction is a waste of time, once your cable is covered in slippery mud. Daan

I use these people for tubes: https://allterraintyres.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1095_1263_1296 Daan

This, coupled with £2 a litre for fuel soon and eyewatering gas bills, A land rover is now out of reach for many people.

Did you try a series 3 rad?

I turned it into a lever: http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae318/junglerower/P4280259comp.jpg Keeping it simple is generally best IMO. Groeten, Daan

I think you mean these: I reckon the bf goodrich in this size is hard to beat: https://tiresize.com/tires/BFGoodrich/Mud-Terrain-TA-KM3-7.5R16.htm Might work well on my jeep. If only they existed in 9.00 x 16, I 'd have some for my landy. Daan

Look on the bright side: the last time I had a full day on my project was before our little one was born, and he turns 4 soon! Daan

Last but not least:

I think the original 46 mm callipers with vented disks are hard to beat, Unless you increase the wheel diameter. This is what I have run for years. And the only place where these might not be up to the job is if you come down mountains a lot and don't know how to use engine braking (or have an automatic). If you use stainless pistons, the heat transfer to the fluid is less. When I was involved with rally cars, this was the second choice of materials for pistons. Titanium is better, as it transfers heat slower still, but that was not allowed in certain classes.

Modify the car? I am on 35" tyres and about 2" lift. And lowered the body 40mm lower on the chassis, chopped 60 mm out of the roof and used a flat roof, rather than the ribbed version (saving another 25mm). The sporty reason for the mods is lower C of G and less frontal area (against trees), the practical reason is so it fits in the garage. It measures 2m exact, and my garage door opened is 2050mm. Painting the garage:

Good to see he finished it, sort of. I think it is a great concept. Daan

Badger 110 and L19Mud are currently leading the charge, any more takers? Daan

Really sorry to hear, just keep going!

I know it's a bit late, but with regards to toyota wheels, would this fit? New Toyota Landcruiser 750x16 Pickup Tyres On Split Rims | eBay Looks ideal for local abuse, and split rims with tubes for easy fix in the field. edit: sorry they're 5 stud. Daan

I'd say you can hang a london bus of that. I have a suggestion though: the single ball joint becomes a bit of a weak spot with those portals and large wheels. I'd be inclined to suggest that replacing the a-frame with 2 straight links with ball joints or bushes at the ends is far stronger, and easier to engineer. Daan

Good show. Daan

My write up, it was the SVA versus the IVA now, but in terms of testing and paperwork, I doubt it is much different. The car vs commercial bit is important, as the Commercial test regulations are about 10 pages, whereas the car test is several hundred of pages: Ps. we want a build thread for your Tornado project! Daan

If you sell it, you are going to spend the next 10-20 years thinking it would have been this much if I kept it. I am not selling mine as there are too many memories attached with it. The fact that no one offers me anything for that heap helps too! Daan

..Or even get to retirement age.

I am afraid I have to agree; I am not getting the classic car conversion thing. First of, classic cars that are worth keeping do have a high value, and the ones that are worth a lot, are worth this because they are original; That's were the argument falls flat on its face. You spend a bucket load to convert to EV, and the value of the car becomes less? Than the argument of how much you use it. I used my landy between the last 2 MOTs about 400 miles. Hardly worth the bother I'd say, and that will be the case with most Classic cars. Going forward, the EV will be the only thing we can buy from 2030, so there is no question it will become mainstream. I think there is an argument to replace our fuels for our existing cars with drop in fuels that reduce the real life CO2 considerably, Like bio diesel which was discussed recently, reducing our CO2 by 90%. Currently I don't think we have enough space to grow the crops to replace all the fuel used, but if the majority moves to electric, I'd say that is the way to go.