Daan

To echo the above, currently for sale on facebook for less than a decent willys jeep:

Beautiful pictures of the trip. And the Cat! You should write a book about the trip. and the cat! Daan

Very impressive; I think you could sell those 3D printed parts quite easily. Daan

I can see a grinder based solution coming up. Could you show a picture of the puller onto the disco drop arm?

No worry's, do we get to see the M57 install?

There is a solution though; this picture proofs it fits in the garage!

Fit a later 24 spline diff and ashcroft shafts. Cheapest way to upgrade. If you have 10 splines now, you have the strongest CV's. So just change the diff. Don't be tempted to fit a complete 24 spline axle, as the shafts and CV's in these are very weak. Daan

Interesting that the LRO spanner guy got the top job at LRM! Anyway, back to the Munro, it runs disco 2 axles by the looks of it, I wonder how they get hold of them, if they want to build 5000 per year? I cannot see Land rover assisting them in bulding a competitor of sorts, especially after Ineos was pretty much shown the door asking for defender rights. Before it comes to the 5K per annum, I'd say a nose job is in order. Just make it looks like Mikes ibex, and it will be fine! Daan

Hi Yannch, and welcome to the forum. I have heard of people with this engine having issues with the fuel filter housing drawing air in, giving similar problems as you describe. Daan

Christian units again, sometimes I am not sure what to use, Mahindra didn't seem to know either, metric and imperial is randomly used around the car.

Your workshop is the stuff of dreams!

Loads of space in that area, but less in others... The Passat B5 with this engine does 122MPH according to the specs, and is 100 kg heavier compared to the Jeep. I am planning on fitting a block of wood under the throttle!

Hi, here we are again with a (long overdue) update. Summer was mainly spent entertaining my family and seemingly came and went in a flash. So here we are, 9 months and 2 prime ministers later, I have something new to show; I decided to have a clear out of my garage by mounting parts to the chassis, starting with the largest lump, engine and gearbox. Now I have the body, I could take measurements to check for any potential clashes with the VW TDI. It shows that the Mahindra is different in a few areas to the Willys body I have. The gearbox is mounted further backwards compared to the Willys, and is also longer, it being a 4 speed. As a result, the engine rocker cover flange of the VW has no clearance to the bulkhead, and the gear stick does not line up with the hole in the tunnel. More interesting things are happening once I tried to fit the prop shafts; They are too short. The rear by about 5mm, which is the result of the parabolic springs drooping much further due to them being quite soft. (This is all done with the axles hanging of the springs). The front prop was more worrying, as it somehow was too short by about 1 inch. After some measuring, it appears the Dana 30 diff I use is 1” shorter than the Dana 27 it replaced. So, a few problems to think about (plus many more, but for another time). After some head scratching, I decided best solution is to move the engine and box forward by about 30mm solving all these problems. It will need a longer rear prop, which is a good thing, as the Mahindra one is comically short, resulting in unhealthy U/J angles at full droop. The U/J’s are Identical to Defender ones, so it should be easy adapt a defender prop. With the location decided on, I could start fabricating engine mounts. I am using the original Hydraulic mounts that came with the engine (It is a 1.9 TDI 110 out of a Passat B5, engine code AFN, not the 90 HP version I thought previously). I am mimicking the original setup of the Passat, apart from the Engine lying on its side in the Passat by about 30 degrees, where I fit it in the upright position in the Jeep. The included angle of the AV mounts is about 45 degrees in the Passat, which I maintained in my mount arrangement. The chassis brackets are made out of 100 x 100 x 5 mm box section, like this: The engine brackets were made out of 5mm plate, like this: All mounted, it looks like this, RH side: LH side: Engine looks at home in the chassis: Thanks for reading! Daan

Which station? More pictures please!

Hmm, I have a few to do like that! Very nice! Daan

You barbaric engineer; just use large pliers, like me! That hex key nut looks like it would be in the way if You grind something large. Daan

The main issue is that your radiator now is less effective, so a larger one would be better. Allisport does one, or I think people have used a TD radiator, as it is larger. Great progress btw, I am very jealous of your level progress. Daan

Ok, so the only similarity is the colour?

Inspired by a chinook, right?: the only similarity I can see is that both have 4 wheels.

This tells you more: https://gdlauto.com.au/range-rover-evoke-turbo-problems/ What often happens with VNT turbos is that the vanes get stuck due to build up of diesel soot. A simple strip down and clean is all it needs to solve this. Of course, a land rover dealer is not in business to solve your problem as cheaply as possible, so if your car is out of warranty, I would suggest going to an independent local garage who you trust, or get the spanners out yourself. A new electronic actuator costs this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284021754484?hash=item4221040a74:g:ivwAAOSw2gBfqfg4&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA8EnZoKZChQ1GqKy6R2lqu7eNgHw9JdtPy91NAqVGUZIDYCnD9u24IX3Z5lYS9NmwqYenwkVqvVqkjiv99C0l2n%2BuOfvXonBvolyCAWWfWQaUHuBwM%2Bx0FSlCl17NQpqpAToxwZaRlBqIOdw9MEtW3%2BbNYHMfmWZC1X6AbZYCGi0pOUXju4otImjOh8bZ0XOmWPiXP4IsIf3Uj39tczDYNsEIYc1gWzmaMVIYyJ8ign3qPNX5tCtDpnrrMEDMdGTRvyGgLBqTnc14l7XT9wErXB3TP5L8lL1fdeBZqmJ7x%2BFeNjlnt3hEIN5UpRKhvxClnQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMuuXh04th Or a turbo: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/153534784565?hash=item23bf62e435:g:ixUAAOSw3VFihNtF&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAsKo%2F3wysTorOnSiufFKCCIpfI%2FeOIPhzyn38PAvM373YA75WzMkuLhOBcoO1g5lfg4pFfZWMLcahXAWz5sbjMCSU1e049VKsa780NvG24wCOynQyX7E0spBUTx0IxDT5e1yY9KIazLfieVf0QFun9ip%2Bf%2BbkiKWB3tiMKyCVmNSj7BUSmytsaBhNRBVLXMn5XRRcsHj4fG490lKSvn3IGAhMiT4mFXKKXdB6wp5Ep9gT|tkp%3ABk9SR77l4dOLYQ Expect probably the same for fitting. Daan

Looks like you are making waffles...

I cannot comment on their differences, their core size is identical to the mm, so I doubt there is much in it. I don't know anyone who used an airtec intercooler, but know many people who used an allisport one, so that in itself is a recommendation. Allisport is £55 cheaper, which helps I suppose. Bear in mind that a full width intercooler reduces the cooling capacity of the existing intercooler arrangement, important if you go somewhere hot, allisport does sell an upgraded radiator for this as well. Daan

I had a completely finished 2.25 which I rebuild using the 2.5 block and crank basically. It Just meant my land rover would be off the road shorter, as I could get the block done first, then pull the 2.25 apart and mount the parts to this 2.5 block. I do remember the 2.5 petrol pistons had a limited amount of over sizes available, so check this before you get the block bored, if this is the plan. If you decide to go ahead with this build, I can give you all the details for this even in Nederlands, but it was about 26 years ago, and my memory is not getting any better! Daan

This thread is worthless without pics!

Yes, I build one myself, combining a 2.5 TD with a 2.25 3 bearing petrol. I used new 2.5 petrol pistons, that fit to the 2.25 conrods. The head fits, but I fitted 2.5 petrol valves which I think are larger, with unleaded valve seats pressed into the head, after having them counterbored. I also had the head skimmed by quite a bit, the total compression ratio was 9:1. The 2.25 camshaft drive chain works, you just need to pull a core plug out of the oil gallery so the tensioner has oil pressure. I fitted a 2.5 inlet manifold with a weber 2 stage carburettor, and was running it on LPG. the distributor and fuel pump of the 2.25 fitted. Went very well. Daan