vulcan bomber

I've worked a lathe with around a turn and a half of backlash in it and still got decent jobs from it.

Never really thought about it, as long as you always turn your handles in the correct direction for it, it doesn't cause a problem

That's not leaking from the "normal" place. You have a good chance of fixing that.

If you have time to worry about 0.2mm of backlash in a lathe you've got time to start another hobby..

We Start the Griffons on WR963 from a Pair of yellow top Optima's. 28 volts turning over a 36.7 litre V12. There mounted on an external trolly though, not the aircraft.

Yes the injection pump only cares about boost pressure to adjust the fueling. It's a bit daft because boost pressure is only really the ability to get the air into the cylinders not the amount of air that is actually there. Just like an air compressor, it might deliver a million psi, but start painting and your going to run out in not time because the compressor can't keep up with a paint gun. We use boost and talk boost pressure because it's easy to measure. The 2.8TGV turbo is again controlled with boost, which is about the worst way to control a VNT, it means when your cruising the turbo is trying to make more boost than you need which means the Veins in the pump are creating a restriction in the exhaust and the dreaded "back pressure". There's a good reason why most VNTs are electronically controlled.

Theres a bit of sale jargon In there... I have and do drill through a lot worse than Titanium with standard HSS bits.

Given I pay about a £1.80 for a 13mm drill bit, I wear them out and then bin them and get another from the box. Used properly a drill bit will drill an awful lot of holes before it needs sharpening.

The spacer ring I sell will allow the timing to advance further, this makes the engine more responsive above about 2000rpm, I don't know what power or torque increase you get from it but it's noticeable. It will work on all Bosch VE pumps. I've never looked at the TGV pumps but I'd be interested to see what the part number on them is to find out where they differ. As a general, if you think your engine is struggling, give it a good going over, set the tappet gaps, filters, clean the intercooler out etc. it all adds up.

I happen to know a bloke that does this....

Send it to a machine shop while they have something very easy to position to and they will put a drilll right down the center of it, the treads sghould just peal out then.

If it stops raining I'll pull one out my Case and mesure it up.

Friend of mine bought a cheapish plasma cutter to save some time in his workshop, reckons it doesn't and wouldn't bother again and just stick to the 4½ grinder.

The subject of files came up in the tools section fairly recently, have a look in there

You would need to know the material spec and the process(s) it would go through. It could be case hard, nitrided etc ..

Yes it can be done, it'll be very hard on the outside so it's going to cost a few quid in tooling to do it.

With the best will in the world, I still can't understand where you get £50 from for these spacers.

I had a 1.2 transfer box on my 200TDi for 5 days, it was bloody awful. With the 1.4 box on it will tow 3.5 ton trailers over the speed limit relativly easily but the power delivery isnt there for a 1.2... 5th became almost obsolite when unladen. The transferbox is a fairly simple thing to change, if you and a mate can hold a spanner between you then you'll be able to change it yourself.

Carbide have a very narrow band where they work properly, surface speed, feed per rev and depth of cut. And that's assuming your using an appropriate grade. Get any of them wrong and it won't look good.

I've got a Demand Engineering exhaust on my 200tdi, granted it's a defender one, not sure if they do one for conversions but there a great company to deal with so don't hesitate to get in contact with them.

Personally I don't see the point In a VFD on a manual lathe. RPM isn't that critical within the couple of hundred RPM.

T27 you want, same as the low fueling screw on top of the boost diaphragm.

Your correct. It allows more advance not alters the advance curve, that's what the shims do....

Can you not make your own? I plan to do this on my 110 one day

Should of sent it up Ralph, I'm pretty good at getting broken bolts out.