paintman

Expensive ones are great for professional use, but for occasional use on copper or kunifer I have never had a problem with the Machine Mart one. Setting it all up & ensuring the pipe end is square is the key. As is using the right diameter die.

Mine aren't. Unless you have a particularly mint vehicle forget it & buy one with the transmission you want. It really is more trouble than its worth.

Take the vehicle for a drive & find a nice quiet piece of road. Switch to petrol. Get to about 30 in 4th then accelerate hard. If you don't get a 'rattling' sound then stop, advance the dizzy slightly. Repeat until you get the rattling. Then back off the dizzy until it JUST does it ever so slightly. That's as far advanced as you can really go & still be usable on petrol without fitting an electronic gizmo as LPG can be much further advanced. When you get home use the timing light to mark this position on the pulley. Which you may find bears no relationship to your previous setting using the existing marks! In the manuals my RRC should be TDC+/- 1deg. Set by the above - I normally run on LPG - it is around 8deg BTDC according to the marks.

Bare alloy should be abraded clean then IMMEDIATELY coated with etch primer. U-Pol Acid 8 in aerosol form is very good. Get the Technical Data sheets for the material you have from the paint supplier. It will tell you how to use it. 2k is normally applied by spraying. Sound old paint is usually an excellent primer for new paint - needs cleaning & abrading to give the new paint a key - providing it is compatible with the new paint. Test paint a small area first. 2k isocyanate paints/clearcoats do not contain cyanide.

I've done several that way with a mig & its worked every time. The heat expands the race & the weld stops it shrinking back. But as you haven't got a mig then its out with the angle grinder.

What engine? If the V8 could be the bearing on the front of the pump has collapsed. This will throw water out at a HUGE rate. See if the shaft on the pump wobbles when you pull it. The seal at the front of these can also fail & water will escape from the hole under the nose of the pump. This one can be a little difficult to spot as the fans blow the water away quickly. I have had BOTH the above problems. Either of the above requires a replacement pump. If there is no apparent water loss from anywhere on the engine check to see if you have lots of steam coming out of the exhaust. If so that would suggest head gasket/liner problems.

Top tips for welding from under the vehicle: Use masking tape to close the sleeves of your overalls to your wrists. Stops splatter going down the sleeves. Take a large wet towel & cover your overalls with it. Stops weld splatter burning its way through your overalls from the outside.

There are several shades of most colours & this may be where the problem arises. As an example in DuPont Centari Ford Diamond White (transits etc) lists 9 different shades on FACTORY vehicles depending when they were built. Although to be fair I only usually come across the last two. Standox & Spies Hecker both list Rioja as having two shades. The later being bluer than the original.

Land Rovers have enough problems without looking for more If it's running sweet like you say when assembled as was intended leave it alone!

Could also indicate a generally worn engine. If you put a small amount of oil into the low reading cylinders via the plug hole & the readings improve then it indicates worn bore/rings. Low readings on adjacent cylinders often indicates head gasket failure between those cylinders. But heads off is the only way to confirm. If you do that then a piston looking unusually clean is the one that has had water going into it.

You need to get the system pressure tested & this might involve parting with a few quid to a garage. The contamination test doesn't always show anything. Is it still hissing? The 3.9 & bigger engines do suffer from liner problems & I hope this isn't the case as it is terminal. There are many areas that the V8 will leak from given half a chance! Or you could just put in a container of K-Seal from http://www.kalimex.co.uk. & hope for the best. This is the replacement for the older Cargo Seal-Up sealant. It is more expensive than Radweld & others BUT it really does exactly what it says on the bottle.

Where did you get the paint from Les? & this is definitely cellulose & hasn't got a lacquer clearcoat over it?

Metallic and/or pearlescent paints comprise the base coat which is the colour coat - and a clear lacquer sprayed over the top. The base coat dries matt & it's the clearcoat that gives the shine so you need two lots of materials plus thinner/hardener etc. What ever paint you get ask for the Technical Data sheets (examples at http://corporateportal.ppg.com/Refinish/Ma...D/3000_TDS.html )as these have all necessary info as to pressure, thinning, drying times ete etc AND safety info re breathing protection. Not difficult to use - but I do it every day! Bonatti Grey code is LAL

Pressure caps on cooling systems get weak as they age & no longer hold their designed pressure. If in doubt change it.

Just to go back to the original question, using EP in a box that specifies ATF/MTF WILL make it go bang. And will also invalidate any warranty claim.

Pass. Perhaps you could research it on the net & let us know.

Held on by the long filter mounting screw & a spacer on mine. You did replace the two 'O' rings on the filter?

Common misconception. It doesn't. For Health & Safety info on safe usage of isocyanate paints look at http://www.hse.gov.uk/pubns/web33.pdf

If it is indeed the 3 speed Torqueflyte box (the 4 speed ZF is NOT adjustable) then the brake bands can be adjusted. Note that the torque figures are in pound/INCHES and NOT pound/FEET so you will need the appropriate torque wrench.

As you have found, there is more than one type. PCL is most common here & is the long fitting.

ATF = leaking torque converter to gearbox seal Engine oil = leaking rear crankshaft seal As to what to do will depend on how much you are losing. As replacement of either seal is an engine out/gearbox off job you need to decide if you can live with it. If it is engine oil you may want to look at the engine breathers as if they are blocked the pressure can unseat the crank seal with disastrous results.

http://www2.qha.com/catalogues/QH08.pdf lists clutch sizes

Take the round cover off the back of the transfer box. With the engine OFF & the vehicle in gear rock the vehicle back & forth whilst you look at the relative movement between the splines on the gearbox output shaft and those on the transfer box input gear.

Try entering HHO into the youtube search engine. Will keep you amused for hours!

Mine's a 'Parkinsons Model F' Size 8. Previous owner the National Coal Board! 5"jaws, quick release, & cost £10 at a bootie.