TSD

Knock up a wooden mould, and get someone to fibreglass it for you?

I use Amphenol C16 as a charger connector. Electrically its way OTT, but they are robust and very waterproof. I use a 4-pole one to connect 2 chargers, so both starter and aux batteries get charged. I have a bulkhead mount version on the Ibex, and engine bay cable on the Disco. When not in use, there are dust caps for both sexes. When not in use, the wander lead is still powered, and is often found in a puddle on the drive. In ten years or more, the only thing that has degraded is the plastic tethers on the dust caps. Not the cheapest, but worth the money. There are cheap copies out there in the usual places, I've never tried then and I wouldn't bother.

Small but important hint for the uninitiated - always make sure you can get the filler plug out before you take the drain plug out. A mistake you'll only make once

Remembering of course that increases mechanical wear on the alternator. It will also increase the output current available at low rpm, which might be useful in some cases. The single Vee belt setup on Defender 200tdi is often a bit prone to slipping, and a smaller pulley will make that tendency worse. (I don't remember it being an issue on my 200 Discovery). None of that is a big worry, but if it's just to make the light go out, then just correcting the electrics for less than 50p seems a better bet. But fix the real problem first...

Thanks Peaklander... Sorry, I'm a slow typist... Yes and no. The warning light serves more than one purpose. Firstly, as a warning light.... When the ignition is on, there is 12V on one side of the lamp. If the alternator is charging, then the regulator in the alternator has 12V on the warning lamp terminal. As theres 12v on both side of the bulb, it doesn't light. If the alternator isn't charging, the regulator output falls and there now a voltage difference on either side of the lamp, so it lights up. When the ignition is shut off, the alternator is still turning and outputting 12V to the lamp, but the ignition circuit voltage is now at 0, so there's a difference and the lamp lights briefly as the engine stops. Secondly, as an exciter... The alternator uses a certain amount of power to 'excite' the magnetic field inside it before it can generate any power. When the alternator isn't turning, current flows through the warning light to the alternator, to kick-start the alternator into life. If this current isn't present, or is too low, then the alternator won't start up until it reaches a higher speed (the 'self-excitation' speed) where the stray magnetism is enough to get things going. Once it starts generating (by either method), it is capable of generating power even at speeds well below engine idle speed. You said your engine is a retrofit. Depending what was originally fitted, you're probably/possibly missing one or two parts from the wiring loom. 300tdi vehicles have a resistor wired across the warning light (the effect is the same as a higher wattage warning lamp), and a series diode to block current flowing from the alternator holding the stop solenoid open on the diesel pump when the ignition is shut off. I'm not sure what value resistor was fitted - the circuit diagram says 1000 ohms, but that seems far too high to me. Something nearer 150 ohms would be more likely I would think. The total load should be more than 0.1A (since we know that the 1.2W lamp often isn't enough) and less than 0.3A (Bosch recommendation for no more than 0.2A additional load be placed on the circuit, in the 'blue book' for those that remember it.) But anyway, if you've always had this behaviour from the alternator, but the starting issue is new, then ignore it until you've sold the bigger problem.

If you normally have to blip the throttle to get the warning light to go out, then there's not much point measuring it before that, it won't be charging. That's not unusual for some defenders with some alternators, and it doesn't mean there is a 'real' problem. It just means the warning light doesn't feed enough current to the alternator to get it going. When you raise the revs the alternator 'self excites', and from then on it will charge normally. Normally the engine isn't left idling for long periods after startup, it's not a problem worth fixing, though a higher wattage warning light bulb, or a second bulb wired across it, will usually solve the problem. My 200tdi has the warning light glowing dimly until the first rev up, my 2.8 has it on at full brightness (and has since new). My 300tdi with disco 100A alternator doesn't have the problem.

There is a different (mobile I think) number listed on the shipping page of their website. It appears the company was incorporated 13 months ago, and has registered 5 changes of address since then. ( https://find-and-update.company-information.service.gov.uk/company/14511512 ) One or two changes at startup is quite normal, not in any way a smoking gun, but not encouraging? There's a few other things that probably look a bit 'off'. scamadviser has 3 out of 3 negative reviews for that web page, if you trust such sites any more than dodgy web shops.

Because 3d prints are full of voids and gaps, I was more concerned about low temperature damage rather than high temperatures. It's not easy to produce a decent size print that is watertight, and certainly not airtight. Out of interest, I have a few failed prints scattered about the garden as a very informal experiment. I've not noticed much degradation in any of them in a few years, though I've only given them an occasional inspection, I've not tested their mechanical properties. Some bright blue PLA parts showed no noticeable change, until one day they had dissappeared completely - either blew away in a storm or gathered by some curious creature. PLA were the first parts I left out, since it's supposed to be biodegradeable. Black PETG (my usual print medium) showed no degradation at all. Also nylon parts didn't degrade, but did seem to be getting some greenery. Nylon absorbs a lot of water, so that doesn't seem so surprising (My D3 is turning green for the same reason ) One of my failed Polyurethane castings has been riding around on my D3 towball for a year or so, and also doesn't seem to have been affected (though in this case I wasn't expecting any). Lots of materials out there to choose from, and properties vary between manufacturers, and even between colours, so there's no universal answers. I've had great success with Taulman Alloy910 (Nylon) and 3dxtech CarbonX (CF loaded nylon) on occasion, but both are too expensive and tricksy for everyday use. I've got a couple of rolls of Arnitel ID2060 here. This stuff was specifically aimed at under-bonnet use, so I have high hopes but I haven't yet found a good enough excuse to open the box.

Post up a fag packet sketch of how you see it (with rough dimensions), and see what feedback you get? It certainly sounds plausible enough, printed in the right material. I had good success previously casting some polyurethane parts in 3d printed moulds, I would be tempted to try the same again for this if it were me. That way it could be a single piece part that expands under a washer to fix it in the hole when the washer jet is tightened into the middle? More time and effort, (and money), and probably a prime example of how to get carried away with 'a little project'!

also

Why not help out by posting the accurate measurements then?

I'm just glad it's got one bid on it, so there's less chance of my ending up with the biggest secret santa on record

In its current state it would fit right in with all the mini-based silliness that @miketomcat has temporarily stored in my garden (Not that any of it is visible in the undergrowth!)

Not sure it qualifies as clever, but pick one and connect it temporarily to the FIP solenoid? With ignition on you'll either operate the solenoid or put the oil pressure lamp on. No risk of damage that way that I can see.

The other thing that can cause this is the bushes parting on the rear upper wishbones. I was shocked how knackered mine were, and I noticed no other symptoms. In fact I think the TC cutting in masked the real problem - the TC notices the movement in the back end just before the driver does and takes control, leaving the driver unable to tell what happened first.

That's lucky, I'd hate to think I'd played any part in someone paying that much money for a few bits of simple angle I missed the seat type, because when you asked the question back in 2020, I was researching putting the 40/60 in my Ibex. I will go back to sleep ...

I knew I remembered something about this from a while back... It's like deja vu all over agian... https://farcorners.co.uk/products/far-defender-110130-second-row-seat-risers

Sorry for the radio silence, been away for a few days... I haven't read the full thread yet, but first thought is that I think you may have the pot the wrong way around. One end to ground, the other end to the coil, and the wiper (middle pin) to the tacho. Also watch out for 'suppressor' caps that have been added to the ignition wiring - you can just disconnect them briefly for testing if you find them. On a clockwork ignition, I'd be wondering if the dwell angle was right, but I assume it's not adjustable on the electronic version of the dizzy? Also, in my experience coils like the FlameThrower cause more issues than they cure, especially on an engine like the RV8 with its absurd firing order. Even with Magnecors, HT varnish and careful lead positioning, they can generate repeated misfires that are hard to find. @FridgeFreezer had one (in pre MS days) that arced out from the coil tower, down the insulator boot, through the dielectric grease or whatever varnish we'd used, and grounded on the mounting bracket, and it was almost impossible to stop. At dusk, his engine bay was like blackpool seafront on fireworks night.

Alternatively, wait and see if the postman brings a small surprise package in the next few days

I don't remember any particular wear on the gears of mine. It was never really A1, from new it didn't shift and and out smoothly unless dipping the clutch, but in the end it would slip when disengaged. It always got regular oil changes, but it did have a hard life, between the 2.8TGV and 33" tyres, and covering a lot of fast country roads about 90 miles a day. The filter screen and the piston housings were gummed with alu dust suspended in the oil, and the wear was obvious in the housing. I cleaned everything up and replaced all the o-rings, but I never got it to the point I was happy with it, so I sold it on here as junk (reb78 has the back half of it, I think, and bill van snorkle got the front gear assembly in Oz) I tried a 1.2 transfer box for a while, but even though the 2.8 could pull it easily, it put all the gear changes in the wrong place and I never liked it, so I bit the bullet and fitted a Roamerdrive. I have a standard(ish) 200tdi 90, which always felt to me like the gears were perfectly chosen and matched to the engine (though a 6th gear would be nice). Somehow I never managed to get the TGV / 33" combo in the Ibex to feel as 'right'.

If you've not found them already, there's a series of articles here about the Triumph Type J overdrive, which is the same core design. I noted it originally because it listed all the O-ring sizes, but it's a good coverage on stripping and reassembly too. It's a shame you didn't get the gearknob. It's the only bit of the whole setup that I liked

According to this document Bosch VE pumps can be either M12 or M14x1.5. On this page, it doesn't seem to mention it, but it is picked up by the search engine. If you read the 'page source' it titles a page section 'M14x1.5' (and M12 on some other driveshaft nuts they sell) , so I reckon that's a good bet.

Again, not quite what you asked for, but I used to use Shure in-ear headphones that used use roll-up foam cores like normal earplugs, really good sound isolation and they don't fall out. I've never looked for wireless ones though. Again music quality , price

To avoid faff, buy a Toyota that will do most things better and be so boring no-one will steal it anyway. The only reason I do any of this stuff is because I find it interesting...

It's not always straightforward to boot phones without their matching batteries, even if you provide the power the battery management/protection circuits can get in the way. But I'd much prefer a supercap hidden away and forgotten than a LiPo. One of my trackers from years ago (I've built many) has a small supercap which provides just enough energy for transmitting a single data burst, so most of the time it runs from a very small, very efficient power supply that can only supply enough current to operate the receiver, and charge the supercap.