GW8IZR

Yes but there isn't much material once the pipe outlet is gone, what I meant was try to get a s/h leaky unit and swap the good end cap and gasket over to the old none broken unit. Or just buy new :-)

There isn't much material to tap near the outlet but with care you might be able to fit a 1/2" bsp fitting. Be careful and think of the potential headlines ..... LR owner mows down bus queue after bodged repair... I would ask around here for one that's been swapped due to leaking oil, drill out the rivets and screw the 'new' end cap on to the good body. There again they are so cheap I'd probably just replace

I've always found SHB in Glasgow to be pretty fair to work with. And yes, we worked their trucks very hard.

Marsland was spot on for me. Easy to deal with and no defects / alignment issues at all.

Rattle can of satin black, job will be spot on. I put a 70 quid set with display etc on my firms Hilux and they were spot on till the ATS van shoved them a foot closer to the front. The repair place wouldn't fit eBay specials so fitted genuine Toyota parts..... they might as well not be fitted. Now your post has reminded me I'll get another set from eBay.

As long as you are not Mr January you have nothing to fear.........

More likely a Kawasaki Mule / JCB workmax / JD Gator kind of thing would be more successful in that application, pretty much everyone here are getting them or wanting them now as the latest farm "must have" The trade off between payload v battery weight v endurance is probably a calculation that will be quite dynamic as the power source evolves. Personally for small farm personal transport (incl dog etc...) I wouldn't swap the quad for any other 4x4 but an electric quad, now that I would seriously consider.

As long as we continue to live the way we do - heck I commute to Oslo weekly, then our energy needs will struggle to keep up. As with previous tens of generations our lifestyles will adapt and when fossil fuel becomes more scarce and too costly we will adapt and travel less. Those of us living in rural areas will change our habits - EV technology will improve. Private home generation will become practical... the list goes on, its simply evolution. My Defender will almost certainly outlast its usefulness as a means of transport, not as a result of wear and tear or rust but fuel cost. It would be nice to think it could live on with electric traction but I'd more likely start with a small light van. BTW recently saw a cracking 120Km/h touring bike with huge duration, exchangeable cell packs.... the guy charges it at home and work and commutes 100km daily. He reckons its lovely to ride with super power and immense torque........ who'd a thought it.

I had my Halfords 3/8 checked by our 'calibration man' and he reported it spot on over the entire range.

Yes - millions of insulation displacement connectors are used world wide for safety critical systems and the failure rate is insignificant A baboon buying a blister pack of cheap Scotchloks from Halfords and using them on the wrong sizes of wire isn't really a fair measure of their effectiveness.

Well yeah... but he's not trying to set the tracking, he's doing a DIY four wheel alignment which is a bit more involved.

Need to ascertain whether the rear axle is bent maybe due to a stub axle etc, or if its straight and simply not running true fore / aft I like the idea of g cramping a couple of straights on the discs as that will tell you something factual .... I'd more than likely knock something up to hold a couple of cheap laser pointers - easy to get them true by reversing them and adjusting out the difference til they are spot on.

To accurately estimate time to do a task, work out how long you think it will take. Then increase the units by one order and reduce the number by half. So if you think it will take: 10 minutes - that's 5 hours 1 hour - that is 1/2 a day 3 hours - 1.5 days 1 day - 1/2 a week 2 days - 1 week Etc..... I expected my rebuild to take 2 months, wheel the axles out from under it, stick the axles on the new chassis move the body over job done = 1 year (so far) :-)

Is the string measurement mirrored on the other back wheel? In other words if there is 5mm on the front edge on one side is the other side parallel or 5mm at the rear edge? Regards Paul

I did a task list a couple of months ago - to be honest it didn't encourage me! I'm almost twelve months into this chassis up rebuild and I can +just+ see the end now. The last few months have been very hard to justify to myself as its cost an absolute fortune and eaten so many hours. At the end it will be a truck that I'll keep for as long as I'm driving but its still going to be an '84 90 worth next to nothing. When I was 20 it would have been 6 months from start to finish........

My 1984 90 bulkhead vents are ally and screwed in. Edit! Gawd... just spotted the date on this :-)

You are responsible for ensuring the load is safe and legal etc, no point saying some bloke on a forum said it was ok :-) but when *I* carry long items on vehicles, I work on up to 1m either end of the vehicle tie a bright marker such as a hi-vi to the ends. 1m to 3m needs the proper markers and a spotter / escort. I will carry 5m poles on a 90 ( itself 3.8m ) but beyond that I'd use a 110 or Hilux etc. Be very careful that long poles etc especially if carried at an angle caused by uneven suspension or roof line Discovery and 110 etc can end up at cyclist / pedestrian head height when joining roads where the junction is uphill or downhill etc, that's one of the times a spotter is important and IMO even if you were within the legal permitted length of protrusion you would still be liable for causing any injury. HTH

Some will tell you it can be done in a weekend with a few mates and a crate of beer.. but I fear you just end up with a shed sitting on a new chassis. A full rebuild will cost several thousand pounds, mine is currently about seven! but I've been a bit anal and swapped just about everything. The killer is the time it takes, as said above your entire life on hold. Mine is knocking on for nine months with still a bit to go. Is it worth it, hard money wise - not a chance.... enjoyment and satisfaction - every penny and skinned knuckle. Have you enough space to do this? You need space for the old vehicle, space for the new build and space for the bits. Once the doors are back on you need a wide area to work in as squeezing past the doors in a small garage soon gets old. Have a plan and decide what you want in the end game, allow for lots of contingency and have fun. HTH

Years ago faced with the same issue I wrapped myself in old carpet - I probably should have used some that wasn't soaked in old oil... my guess is your ahead of me here.

In my experience you would be better stripping to bare metal, etch prime and 2k Hth

I've clearly missed my way in life... I must divert my scrap pile to e-bay

Dirty diesel goes to the largest surface area ...

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/DataSheets/MK/3_Pole_Fan_Isolator.pdf Might be what you want?

Fan isolator switch if you only want to switch both L / N on/off and they look like a normal light switch?

If its possible that you may want to paint the car at some time don't put silicone anywhere near the panels as its all but impossible to paint after that. Buy a 1K seam sealer from an auto paint store as it is ok to paint. HTH