GW8IZR

And the special tool needed at this time of year..... a cup of boiled water to warm them up before you try to fit them.

That's a sh!t turn of luck, sorry to see the debris. Don't let it be an unhappy ending.

Was that a radio truck? It looks more like rfi filtering to me than emp protection ( but that's not an evidence based statement ) If you have ever pulled it apart, what is item 27 made from? They made some pretty advanced systems that lots of time trouble and effort went into them.

On a similar subject, local school was an RV point for children at night causing a bit of noise and fuss, they installed a thing called a Mosquito which was a sound source at a few tens of KHz - it drove the children daft so they dispersed. Those of an age where the hearing has been battered by 9mm rounds and loud music walked past unaware.

Yep, spraying brake cleaner about when the burner or a propane heater is on leads to very odd headaches and strange dreams ..

To disperse a mob or rioting crowd you effectively beamed a high energy RF source (about 150MHz) at 'em. It gave a general feeling of being unwell, made everyone just want to go home. Its effect was almost immediate. Demonstrated on a group of volunteers who all said it was an unpleasant experience. I have suffered similar effects when working on the face of dishes that we had been assured were isolated but clearly were still on. That took a few hours to have any effect but was a much lower level and was about 5GHz. Did see some EMP trials back in the late 70's as well, killing the car HT coil. The pulse caused such a high field in the primary that the secondary flashed over so the ht winding had short circuits turn to turn, after that no HT can be made, stopping the engine dead. No way that could be used as a civvy stop method, no way to direct it so police car would be stuffed along with half the house wiring / tv's telephones etc within a few km ;-)

I saw a trial of a similar weapon to stop rioting crowds, incredibly effective.

:-) there are a few very strange vehicles and owners about ...

The term Strange Rover was applied to a vehicle many, many years before that - and it looked nothing like a Discovery.

An appropriatley specified or sized connector only gets warm because its resistance has gone high. The current may be much lower than expected yet it may still get warm, clean the contacts or replace them and the joint should then behave normally.. It is possible that the motor is jammed or stalled and the increased current was blowing the correctly sized fuse, maybe someone tried a bigger one but if it isn't blowing the 35A fuse and the joint is getting warm you have two problems. Free up the motor to make sure it draws the correct current and clean the joint to make sure it allows current to the motor and doesn't get hot. For interest - the power dissipated (heat) in the joint is the square of the current times the resistance, dirty or bad contacts have high resistance. A good clean joint carrying 10A with a low resistance of 0.001R will dissipate 100mW - that will feel cold A bad joint with dirty contacts carrying just 1A with a high resistance of 10R will dissipate 10W - that will feel hot. HTH

They dont come much earlier than mine (84) and its got white sealent between the seams. It was put there before the gutter was fastned to the roof so I'm pretty sure its OEM. However it was old and cracked (like its owner), so I cleaned it out and sikaflexed it

Tell neighbour his dog needs its anal glands emptied.. Its not a nice job and these days I let the vet do it, money well spent.

Put it on and walk in the kitchen, she will probably change her mind. Or just give it a good pre wash with the garden hose then wash as normal.

I have those little side windows in my hardtop and they are a fantastic improvement in visibility They also take about 30 seconds to remove so some additional security is essential. One last thing, are those wheels rated for a 110 weight? HTH

Index is fine but to recover it ( legitimately ) would be an expensive activity.

Ideally it would be: Supply --> fuse. --> switching device --> filament--> return (-ve) For each filament As you only have one switch separating the circuits after the switch is the best you can achieve. Now with your setup in the drawing the switching devices are unfused. You *should* protect them with a fuse. The failure mode is likely to be physical I.e. melted relay, broken in an accident etc.. so it will be a high fault current if it happens. A big fuse capable of taking the full load current of the fuse box would be best. Yes its a bit of a nuisance all these additional fuses to take care of a "what if.." scenario

That look about it on this little display but as the spots are only auxiliary lighting I would only fuse that as one circuit. At end of day you would still have main beam if the spots failed. The big relays you have selected should be nice and resilient so three is fine. 10A fuses I use for each circuit as they pull a lot of current from cold. 20A for the spots. HTH

So if you look at the original diagram for the lighting it could have been made much simpler, one fuse for all the lights etc, but the designer elected to add separate circuits - the reason being to make the vehicle more resilient and safer to use. What you propose is fine and will work and its probably how lots of LR are modified. Trouble only comes if a filament pops when your going round a bend on a dark lane *(note) Filaments can go dead short for a few mS as they blow which can pop the fuse. If that happens both your main or dip will fail. For the sake of an extra fuse after the relay you can maintain three lamps instead of two. So ideally you have four relays, I do but some might argue that's another failure point. Take a look at what LR did, two contacts on the switch to separate the circuits. *(note) other failures like wires chaffing or dropping off - but with a proper instal that risk is low. Your fuse box is ok as it is assuming the feed to it doesn't go through any panels - if it does you should really fuse it before it exits the battery box. Or you do what LR did and make sure the cables cannot chaff rub or cut, make sure you use good cable and ideally a plastic sheathing, grommet on each hole and cable supports to stop the wires moving. On this tablet I can't see if I've tried to answer all the points till I press 'post' so if I've missed anything or not made sense just shout :-)

If you fuse the feed to all of the relays, which you should if the wiring to those fuses is long and passes through bulkheads and grommets, then you rate the fuse appropriate to the combined total load. Each filament dipped L&R and main L&R ( thats four fuses) should then be fused at the rating for that load . That way if a filament or wire fails blowing a fuse it doesn't plunge you into sudden and total darkness. If the main feed to the relays shorts to earth unexpectedly it wasn't a safe and proper installation ;-) HTH

I'd need to google it ;-) it was the 3" thick rubber that I meant..

Wouldn't do much for the unsprung weight, might be moot with a beam axle but to be commercially viable it would need a wider application market.

Certainly Polaris are not afraid of being inventive. These are very agile. Takes about two hours to swap back to tyres.

Just as life is sitting stable state.. along comes someone with a picture of a 101. It stirs up unusual feelings in your subconscious mind leaving you asking "I wonder if....."

he doesn't actually say an ex mil coiler, just a land Rover, a series might be a better proposition... of course with the caveats above. There are some nice series motors about that have been in private ownership with lots of time and money spent on them. I saw a really nice Lightweight the other day, owner wanted circa 3K for it.. a similar priced defender would have been a real nail.

Only know you through reading your exploits here - but hope today isn't too bad. The day after the "main event" all the other bumps and aches seem to appear. Pain free recovery!