Quagmire

Found it! Page 2 of this thread: Another MS/MJ thread

*edit- posted in wrong topic! Too early in the morning.

thanks for that- will have a look through the thread when I'm at work tomorrow

Does anyone know of a supplier where i can get hold of some of the three pin connectors for EDIS coilpacks? Have just spent the last 1/2hr googling and have only found places in the states... Many Thanks *edit- is this them? Vehicle Wiring Products

If your talking about changing the distributor, i'd just go Megajolt- it'll be cheaper and better. I'm in the process now! Hope you get it sorted. When a problem drags on and on through endless troubleshooting it can be a real bummer...

Two things: So i thought i'd see how i get on with constructing the $80 MegaJolt rather than fooing up a $180 MS, and then if that all goes well i can get things running and take the MegaSquirt plunge later

Well i found this eventually: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=22090 so it looks like i'll taking a T-piece from the brake servo...

OK, So i was going to go full Megasquirt and lose the SU's once and for all- but chickened out at the last minute. My 90 is my daily driver and i cannot afford to have it running poo whilst i sort ignition maps AND fuelling, and the idea of wiring and soldering so much spaghetti did make my knees quiver slightly. (well quite a lot actually) Plus, its more money right now as i havent even got the EFi kit all working yet, and as the mech advance on my dizzy is shot i needed to do something sooner rather than later. Enough excuses already! Anyways, as my Dad kindly offered to buy the MJ unit from me when i went to MS later my mind was made up. I ordered a MJ unit from autosportlabs and am currently awaiting its delivery. So i have got thinking about getting everything ready for the MJ installation. I have all the EDIS components- just need to get myself some leads now. I have the trigger wheel and mount. But where is best to take the MAP takeoff from on the inlet manifold? The MJ site states that you should really take a feed from each branch of the manifold- but that is going to be horrendous- 8 feeds?! I have heard that the standard SU vac advance take off is too close to the throttle butterfly and gives turbulent/unstable readings. So where should i take a MAP reading from? will one branch do? I imagine that would give a crazy pulsating effect- even with a small reservoir to smooth things.... Thanks

Mine doesn't but its a "basic" model. It doesnt have anything

Funny you say that, i also took a peek under the rocker cover whilst i was tinkering, and was pleasantly surprised at the colour in there. The engine has done about 12k since i rebuilt and fitted it in Novemember. I run with classic green 20/50 and change the oil religously every 3000 miles. This picture was taken yesterday and the oil is due to be changed next week.

Guys, I run LPG 99.9% of the time, only switching to petrol when i run out of gas (which is rare). In the warmer weather i start on gas too. I know that you cannot "read" plugs on modern unleaded like you could with old fuels. I am assuming that LPG gives no indication whatsoever! I am running a closed loop system so my mixture on gas should be more or less correct. However my plugs are white : Is this OK? This is in a 9.35:1 RV8. Cheers

LPG leak somewhere? If its like mine you can have quite a large amount of gas between the tank and vap just sitting in the pipeline. Assuming tank solenoid does close off so you are not seeing a drop in tank levels you could have a leak somewhere further forward. And i thought ATF smelt ok- its the EP90 in the axles/hubs/transfer box that smells bad. Wouldnt say it was like boiled slugs though... And if it was EP i would kind of expect it to smell strongest just after a run, when everything is hot and oily...

B-reg's are the best! Although my 2.25 is now a 3.5

I got mine on from ebay.com from a seller called "atomicjawbreaker". Delivery was very quick! (5days) and only cost $16. For just under £35 total i got the edis8 controller, pigtail, and vr sensor- this price included the shipping. So i need to keep my eyes peeled for the older short tower type if i want to use my 90 as a submarine? One last question then- "FoMoCo" units are obviously genuine, but are the "Motorcraft" ones too? Cheers

Guys, I am collecting all the stuff i need for my Megasquirt setup- I have the EDIS8 controller, pigtail and vr sensor. Now i am looking for some coilpacks. Looking on ebay there are some that are new pattern parts and are much cheaper. Has anyone used these with any success? Or does the old adage "you get what you pay for" apply here ? Also there seem to be different revisions of packs (well they look different anyway)- which are best, am i better with the latest and greatest or are earlier ones more suited to what we do with them? Thanks Jamie

Have you checked the dashpots? Could they be sticking? Jerking on application of throttle is definitely a symptom of lean condition as far as i know. If the pistons are sticking too far down you'd get rich, but too far open and you'd get the opposite. I had similiar at first when setting up my LPG vapouriser. My idle bypass was too far closed, the result was that you had a kind of "digital" throttle effect. You had to push the throttle quite far before it did anything, and no matter how gentle you were it still gave the on or off feeling. Terrible in slow traffic, not good for the transmission either!

Mine didnt leak when i first filled it- and then i added antifreeze! That found all the weak spots Now i seem to generally be fine, but still have to tighten the odd hose here or there, and they have been gradually getting better. I tend to check every month or so and just top up perhaps half a litre i reckon. Thats doing 70 miles a day during the week. My favourite spots for leaks are the rear of the inlet manifold where the heater pipe connects (hard to see under the air filter) and the rubber pipes connecting heater pipes to water pump.... That and the crappy silicon sleeve for the Kenlowe capillary in the top hose, soon to be replaced with an x-fan switch thing i think.

I did the same, but included a copy of the receipt i got for the engine when i collected it. Was only a simple one liner on Word stating that the 3528cc rover v8 engine number "xxxxx" was sold to me by the guy for the price of £10. Had my name and address and his. Think that was overkill to be honest... One thing to mention is that you need to get the capacity correct- when filling out v5 dont just put 3500cc or whatever- check the web and find what the normal manufacturer capacity is stated as.

To check mech advance take off dizzy cap and see f you can twist the rotor arm. It should feel sprung and Allow you to rotate it a few degrees, when you let go it should snap back into position. Mine currently doesn't and although I have had a minor drop in mpg, performance doesn't seem to be too bad. My vacuum is still working though As for timing, have a look at the crank pulley, there should be some marks on there. Clean them up and highlight them with some white paint. Stick a timing light on it, connected to cylinder 1. Fire it up and see where your White marks align with the pointer. I tend to just paint the book figure on the pulley as you only have one line to look for then. Witht he carbs, read the manual I posted up and all will (hopefully) become clear. good luck!

That seems to be how it is with most of the LR range- my '84 90 is much more solid looking than some later ones half its age. Guess the quality of steel etc changed...

Yup, remove all stuff in the way and any belts that need to come off- I believe you lightly grease the gasket before it goes on. With the thermostat it should have a little hole in it to allow air to bleed through- make sure this is at the top when you fit it. And just be careful with the bolts, i seem to remember that there are a few different lengths, make sure you know what goes where, dont want to strip any threads by winding a bolt into a blind hole its too long for... Check here for general v8 stuff (mostly Rover) - V8 Forum

Its not really- SU's have hardly any moving parts I have a link to a decent manual - mods please remove if this breaks any rules... Weber/SU Manual I have EFI stuff ready to go- honest! Have inlet manifold, injectors, plenum loom etc from old flapper system- just need to get the MS 'n' EDIS Allocated funds always seem to get trashed on other more 'important' things like gearboxes

Have you checked the plugs? Got any cleaner than others? That would indicate water in cylinder and potential head gasket failure... As for oil in the dashpots- if you unscrew the big black thing from the top of the SU's you will find you can pour oil in them, these are the dashpots that damp the motion of the piston and therefore the needle as it moves up and down. If one side is reacting different to the other you can get bad running. Do one carb at a time- do not mix the dampers up! I tend to take the top off the carb so that it I can get it spotless inside- you can also then sit down somewhere nice to clean them, like the kitchen Undo the three screws at the base of the carb "dome" bit. Lift it off. You will find a big (but weak) spring, and the piston that holds the needle assembly. you can take these out and clean them too if they are gunked up. Now with the top you removed, unscrew the black plastic screw thing at the top and withdraw the damper. Clean meticulously and put to one side. Now do the same with the "tube" that you removed it from. You will find that it is (probably) full of rank oil that is black. Once all clean, reassemble carb top onto body, replacing needle assembly and piston. The piston can only go in one way as there is a tab that locates in a notch in the carb base. Now you have a carb minus damper. Simply fill the top of the damper with ATF or 20/50 and replace damper, thicker oil will give more richness on acceleration. The oil should be filled to 13mm above the damper top when inserted. I always just guess mine and make sure each side is the same. Screw damper back in and test when both sides done.

Valley gasket is the gasket on top of the engine, between the inlet manifold and block. I think Boothy is saying you might have a leak on one of the waterways there, the book advises you smear a little blue hylomar on the gasket around the ports for the waterways when fitting (if you change it). As Boothy said, if the dizzy or leads are wet then you might get a misfire, otherwise it sounds like timing? Is the missing always at the same spot? Could be an issue with vac or mechanical advance not working i guess. I'd concentrate on the water situation first though. One more thing- surely if its a 3.5 on carbs then we aren't really looking at a liner/block issue. If it is anything like that it'd be a gasket surely?

Red oxide coated in black Tractol does it for me Seems pretty chip resistant B)