Quagmire

Not below 2000rpm for 20mins. No idling at all!!!!!! Use lots of cam lube during assembly.

Is this an open loop system (no feedback) or a closed loop system that has an oxygen(lambda) sensor in the exhaust controlling a stepper motor after the vapouriser? My family run three rover v8's on gas, and my advice would be thus: Get the car running on petrol sweetly first, and then get the LPG sorted. When you say it won't take throttle, does it just bog down? How have you reset the mixture after reassembling the carbs? Did you balance them? I have the SU manual if you need a copy... Troubleshoot one thing at a time. Make lots of changes at once and you won't know which made the situation better or worse. Ask me how i know! Don't buy silly things like Magnecor leads, or whizzy spark plugs. Just ensure you have a genuine/good quality set of normal leads and plugs. Route the leads carefully to avoid crossing each other or leads touching. Buy more spacer thingies if you need to. Make sure the silly screw cap things on the spark plugs are not loose, and that all the plugs are gapped correctly. Ensure your dizzy cap and rotor arm are in good condition. If you need to replace them, then make sure you buy genuine as these are the best. My starting technique on gas requires a little throttle to start when stone cold first thing, but anytime after that for the rest of the day i can start it standing outside the truck. I have Megajolt though so have massive sparks. Lean mixtures or too much ignition advance can cause tricky starting (i think). The fact that it is hard to start on both fuels would seem to point to an ignition type fault, so i'd go through these first. So is it just short journeys that make it hard to start? I.e. it starts better from cold or really hot, than it does from just warm? As for the lumpy running, on petrol mine idles so smooth you can put your hand on the dash on not feel any vibration. On LPG idle is not quite so good (mine sits at 600rpm, so a tad slow), but i believe this is down to the fact that the crankcase breathers feed back into the carbs after the mixer plates, rather than before. One thing i will say is that once you get it sorted you'll love it! I certainly love mine :)

Thanks guys- i will check the thread next time i undo it, have a horrible feeling its the finer type...

I have a brass filler/bleed plug in the top drivers side of my rad (its an early style v8 one) but the socket i need to undo it is huge, and slightly bigger than my biggest adjustable . Am getting a bit fed up of having to drive over to my parents (25miles away) to borrow one of my Dads sockets to bleed the radiator properly everytime i do any tinkering that may have introduced air. So my question is this: Are all rad bleeds the same thread? I was thinking of getting an x-cap and wanted to know if it was a case of "one cap fits all" Anyone got one on a factory v8 defender? Thanks!

Read this peeps: http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=133 There are also endless threads on the site for what comp ratio will be derived from which head/gasket combo.

Just put a RaRo classic axle on my 90- it had the correct flange already so was a straight swap. Just make sure when buying an replacement that you dont pick up an early range rover axle where the shock mounts are on opposite sides of the axle. I took the opportunity to replace the a-frame bushes and a-frame balljoint. You'll almost definitely need a new jumphose for the brakes unless yours is only recently fitted.

Whenever mine have gone it has always been the breather blocked up- the tube on it was v-short from the previous owner and was getting full of road dust. dust+oil vapour = perfectly sealing gunge. I have extended the breather up along the a-frame, back along the chassis and into the back body by sticking it up through the gromit for rear lights. It sits there hidden away behind the speaker and hasnt blocked since. And no, my speaker isnt covered in oil either The front axle has always had the breather up into the engine bay and has never suffered any problems.

LPG! Mine does 70 miles a day, with me grinning the whole way.

Mine does this too Heater only though. I have to turn it off to see how much i really have, but then it does run out when showing 1/4 tank left anyway... I use the trip counter, much better! Seriously though, i second the idea of checking earths are good.

Need a tumbleweed smiley...

A cam would not run fine and then go wrong over a period though- it'd just be pants all the time. Mike, check the sparks and then report back- there are EFi diagnostic manuals on here somewhere- check tech archive. Popping into the intake is a symptom of lean running (i think). So does it run fine from cold then go bad when its up to temp?

For OSX or Linux users, try Virtualbox from Sun systems. Its free and v.v.good. I have a win xp machine installed on my hackintosh just so that i can run Microcat

I second the copper grease comments! Amazing stuff, you cant quite beat the feeling of getting ready to attack a bolt that you think is going to be stuck solid, and instead it just undoes like its new beautiful... But yes, only use it in the right places- most of these are common sense

I want to do this to my youngest brothers s3 that is currently being re-chassis'd. I figure that it'll be fun along the way and at the end you should have a well running car, that gives as good economy as you can get. Nice! Good luck and keep us posted.

Nice one!

My 3.5 has 10 bolt heads from a 4.0 Disco engine. They were cheap at the time (£23 ) and have allowed me to keep my 9.35:1 compression whilst being able to use composite gaskets. All tickety-boo so far

Does it do it when the engine is cold? Or only when its warmed up? See point #6 by ThreeSheds...

I stand corrected it'd still not do your chassis any favours though if it did go ping... change of pants would also be needed!

Ah, sorry - 07:19 must be too early for me to be posting in the mornings!

I'd be wary of making any repairs to a prop- if it lets go at speed it could flip the car...

Like this? http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=8009

Thanks for pointing that out, I hadn't noticed ! That screenshot was taken on my work desktop- the laptop I use is actually set to display correctly. I will change the screen to avoid confusion. Thanks for the kind words too. Appreciated

What you measuring? I would offer, but unfortunately my engine with the correct number of cylinders (8, as all engines should be :ph34r:) is a 3.5 Carb bitsa in a 90

I had this on my LT77 fitted 90 after parking it one night and for some stupid reason leaving it in reverse. I pulled forward ok the next morning but could not get reverse at all. Like you described it was as if there was no gate to go across and through into reverse. My problem was found to be the plunger as markpc described.

LOL- , having seen what other people have done, i would now have to agree. My dad got a fan for free from a Volvo- a guy at the dump was about to chuck it and Dad happened to be there to say- "i'll have that" The fan works, so not sure why he was lobbing it anyway... That and an x-fan jobby and his 110 will be sorted for muchos less pennies than mine was. I have since ditched the Kenlowe leak maker switch as I got an x-fan for Christmas.