Quagmire

As long as you buy one that fits it shouldnt be a problem! As stated above- DO NOT USE THE CABLE-TIE TYPE ARRANGEMENT THAT KENLOWE SUPPLY I did, "just to get the thing on" and before i knew it it had been on there 9 months and chewed through my rad! Big big puddles of water. Tears of anguish+ coolant Luckily the v8 was due to go in shortly afterward, so i ordered a v8 rad and mounted it properly. new v8 rad+ 2.25 = very cool 2.25

I'd like to try to put one together to give me a starting point on tweaking carb engines. If i can zero in on the point where the AFR crosses over, and then go back and forth over it in smaller steps, i can theoretically find roughly stoich and then richen a bit? The hardest thing then is how much is "a bit"

My v8 90 runs at 2500rpm when doing 60- and thats where i keep it usually. I guess i could therefore go much faster but rarely do as it costs too much! Having checked my speedo with GPS it was surprisingly dead on- only overeading by about 2-3 mph at a GPS indicated 70.

One of the v8's i collected before getting my lovely one went in the back of my Dads Peugeot 307! Two people can lift one, just.... try that with a 2.25. And as Fridge says, EFi bits are cheap because people are breaking cars or scared of it and replacing with carbs- i got the inlet manifold, injectors, plenum and loom for £40 delivered off a certain auction site. As for reliability- a stock 3.5 v8 will give more ooomph than the tuned up 2.25 and be waaaaaaaaaay less stressed, so theoretically much more long lived. And sound nicer too.

Guys, For a few months now i've had a clunk when taking up drive- but only when pulling away in first, and only if i have lifted off in gear beforehand.So if i coast with clutch in to a stop it doesnt happen. Presumably this means some part is rotating and becoming slack when i lift off... I cannot replicate the clunk in any other gear. I am having to lift the clutch slowly whilst idling stationary to get over the clunk gently before i actually pull away. Any ideas? I was thinking mainshaft wear or the input gear to tbox but surely that would affect all gears ? Yours, confused, Jamie.

I think the v8 and 2.25 engines used the same gauge, from when i microcatted the difference so should read the same- as western notes thats on a carb v8 though. My 90 was a 2.25, when i went to carb 3.5 i just connected v8 sender as was fitted to my 2.25 gauge and it reads ok, well the needle sits dead centre when up to temp anyway...

To be honest i dont think they knew what they were talking about! My 3.5 has been on gas for over a year doing 70miles a day no problem. Mine doesnt run any hotter on gas, even sitting still in traffic on a blazing hot summers day. I think people get confused with the fact that LPG burns slower, so without the timing being advanced you would be potentially letting hot gases out through the exhaust valves still burning! That would heat things up i am sure. LPG+Megajolt = v8 bliss I'd like to EFi mine and go for gas injection on MS. But thats a whole other project for me to think about.

And even if it didn't do ^^^^^^ then water isn't exactly known for its lubricating properties... The only way to tell whats been done is to take sump off and check.

I only ever managed to start my series 2 on the handle in warm weather- perhaps i need to go to the gym a bit more though. Good that the oil pressure comes up- the engine is basically healthy then Even though i drive a v8 everyday, i still love the sound of a 2.25- that lovely raspy burble And the feeling of getting an engine to run that hasn't for a while is awesome. Good luck!

Is a FBH the same as Land-Rover special tool No.1 ?

Apart from the usual wheel changing stuff i have... Small toolbox with: Roll of spanners metric and imperial Adjustable spanner -useful for opposing something if you don't have 2 of the right size. Screwdriver selection Allen keys Pliers Wire cutters Wire strippers Wire -various gauges and lengths Lucar terminals Bullet terminals Cable ties Multimeter Timing light Insulation tape Duck/Duct tape PTFE tape Soldering Iron Solder Spare fuses Ratchet strap WD40 Engine oil - I have to check my levels at work, as my space at home is on too much of a hill. In this weather especially I carry a 10l can of unleaded with me too. This is all in the car mainly because I live in a small 2up 2down and can't keep all that stuff in the house- I use it on the 90 anyway mostly so it just stays with it.

lol @ HFH- nice one!

My 90 has an electric fuel pump external to the tank located in the wheelarch in front of the rear drivers side wheel. That was on a 2.25, but it now runs my v8 so should run a 2.5... Microcat says part number PRC3901 for the pump, and NRC7284 for the mounting plate- although when mine rotted through i made my own. i would take a pic but i reckon its probably just a big block of frozen slush at the mo!

Good point, decided to keep the rev limit @ 4500 (MJ sets advance to zero?), but forgot that i had therefore made the last column pointless!! *edit Actually it interpolates anyway, so it will kind of be using the last column.

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments, much appreciated Right, so time to comment on the general running since Megajolt was installed. Quite simply, it is just unbelievably good. The 3.5 was never slow to start on petrol, but now will always (and i do mean always start before the engine has cranked twice. That is from stone cold, after sitting unloved for days and this is starting on petrol or LPG. Before the MJ I would sometimes struggle to fire up from cold on gas. Not anymore! In these last few weeks I have been starting on gas from cold after being stood overnight when the temps have been -6°C As I said before, the idle was now rock solid. Totally. It pulled better, and after I had got a map from the internet it was needing less throttle and returning better mpgs… Result! So, first thing on my agenda was to get my "map switching" sorted. This allows the ignition map to be changed during running, and in my case was to allow the engine to run specific petrol and LPG maps. The map is switched when a certain pin on the MJ is grounded, as shown here: http://www.autosportlabs.net/MJLJ_V4_vehicle_installation_guide#Enabling_Option_Switch And what most people do is have this on a switch, however I wanted it to be switched automagically. What i did was use a small SPDT relay from Maplin wired up like this (a SPST would have done): *the legs may have been in a different orientation, but you get the idea* This is located in my LPG wiring box and was wired to take a feed from the LPG solenoids, so that when they are powered (and hence you are on LPG) the relay is triggered and the MJ option is connected to Earth. In this manner the correct ignition map will always be selected for the fuel you are running. This is not only convenient, but safer too as running a map written for LPG whilst actually running the engine on Petrol could be very bad indeed. So now that I could write to differing maps i set about getting my LPG map sorted. I started out by using the "standard" 3.5 petrol map that is in the megasquirt thread and then adding more advance. I then tried a map I found on the Megajolt forums written for a 3.9 running gas, and that worked well. However in the end i ended up tweaking that too, as reading around the general consensus on the v8 forum was that you can get all of your timing in on a 3.5 by around 2500rpm. Initially i didn’t really do much tweaking but spent my time driving about and getting a feel for what parts of the map i was hitting when travelling about. From this i then began tweaking the areas I spent the most time in and going from there. Eventually I got to this map for LPG, and I am still running the original petrol map for normal running. Remember this is an LPG map! Now that I had the map more or less sorted i now turned to address an issue that had been bothering me since i installed the closed loop addition to the LPG. If you have a vehicle that runs a throttle position sensor then the control box can be adjusted so that the system goes "open loop" at idle. As my carbed engine did not have a TPS this meant that my system was running closed loop all the time and giving me some annoying hunting when stationary. As the lambda control box is adjustable, i came up with the idea of using the MJ to trigger open-loop mode when idling... After posting on the Megajolt forums, my plan was to do this: Using a user defined output from the Megajolt, i could connect this to the lambda box and it would see 0V when this output was triggered. (All megajolt outputs switch to earth, rather than switching some voltage). To prevent the box from seeing some random floating voltage when not idling the +5V from the Megajolt TPS ref pin is connected to earth via a “pull up” resistor: ***Credit to "Nitropixie" on the autosportlabs forum for his help with this*** Thus the box should see ~5V or nothing at all. See my original thread for more info: http://www.autosportlabs.org/viewtopic.php?t=2518 All that was left then was to set the output to trigger in the Megajolt software- I used output #2 for this. I decided to use RPM, as at the time my MAP reading was spiking a bit here and there: And finally tweak the adjuster on the LPG box until the yellow light went off when the car was at idle and the output was on. Sorted! The vehicle no longer hunts to the degree it did, although it still does a very small amount. Apparently to eliminate this entirely I would need to connect my crankcase ventilation to the air intakes, upstream from the mixer plates. I won’t bother though as for the small improvement to be gained, I don’t think the effort is worth it. If it keeps snowing and i have nothing else to do i will try to jot down my attempts at rad fan control from the MJ...

Good one brother!

I towed someone!

It runs as normal on LPG, but goes like the clappers on Petrol!

Well as the title really, has anyone else had a noticeable drop in LPG consumption with the cold? I figured that the vapouriser may be providing a richer mixture in the colder weather until warmed up, but i also thought that the closed loop system would keep a handle on things. However, i can and do start straight from gas even in this cold and so i guess until the lambda is hot i could just be effectively venting my tank through the engine! In the summer/autumn i was getting between 16-17mpg on gas, now its about 13-15 depending on how late i am for work... Could this be the weather, or am i due an overhaul on my vap unit? It hasnt been apart in 2.5 years since i got it...

Seconded! I have it on my 90, but want to get my youngest brother to Megajolt his s3 when its back together

I should comment on another thing i have noticed- and its a good thing. Using the higher range of the switch so that the fan is switching normally (i.e. only when stationary etc) I have noticed that the engine is running slightly cooler when cruising (fan not on ). I guess that having the big torpedo capillary job in the top hose must restrict coolant flow slightly, accounting for the higher running temp when using the Kenlowe stat?

Thanks for the replies chaps, i will try it in the bottom hose and see what happens then. Will give me a chance to wire the thing up properly anyway as i had used all the same colour wire in my excitement to get it fited *smack on the wrist* Will report back with results

Guys, Quick question for anyone running an x-fan switch on a 3.5 v8... I got one for Christmas and am very happy with it, it makes the engine bay much sexier to look at than the kenlowe knob thing, and has eliminated the annoying weeping i got with the kenlowe capillary jobby. Due to the fact that my top hose is two pieces anyway i decided to put the switch in the top hose and wire it up using the existing kenlowe "jetboost" wiring. i have a single 16" fan that is dual speed. When the first temp is reached on the switch the slower fan speed is triggered. At the same time an illuminated "on/on" rocker switch on the dash lights up to let me know that all is well. At this point i have gained some functionality over the kenlowe switch. Originally the fan would trigger at the lower speed, and then i could manually select a higher speed with the rocker switch if i wanted. I have now got it setup so that this functionality is retained but if the water temp strays into the second range on the x-fan switch then the faster speed will be automatically triggered anyway. Hope that makes sense. Anyway, here's the rub. The lower temp range with the standard 88-83 / 92-87 switch causes my fan to run continuously! The temp gauge is never allowed to reach the halfway point where it used to sit before. Even when cruising at 60mph in this colder weather i am finding that the fan is still on! Using only the higher range of the switch seems to give much better results, with the gauge reaching just above halfway, then the fan coming in and bringing the needle back to below half. So has anyone got any recommendations on using a different switch? Based on the list below i was thinking of going with a 50215 or a 50113... Thanks! Jamie 50100 82-68 50101 84-79/88-83 50250 86-76 50012 86-77 50090 86-81 50120 88-79 50296 88-79/110-102 50271 88-83 50217 88-83/92-87 50240 90-80 50113 92-82/95-80 50170 92-87 50215 92-87/97-92 50011 93-88 50102 93-88/97-92 50035 95-85/102-92 50130 95-86 50030 95-90 50092 95-90/100-95 50104 97-92 50103 97-92/101-96 50214 97-92/102-97 50190 100-95 50198 100-95/110-105 50000 103-98 50191 120-115

When people ask what you drive and you say "A Defender" you either become some kind of lunatic or someone to be highly respected in most peoples eyes... Somehow people in your street will begin to ask you for help with things, simply on the basis that you will know "because he drives a landrover" Or people broken down in carparks will walk past plenty of other fine looking people to ask the guy in the Defender for assistance... Weird innit?

Kev, see here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14006&st=100 Mr BullBarCowboy had a problem with his block whilst doing his awesome rebuild. That link will take you to the relevant section of the thread, but the whole thing is deffo worth a read. V8 porn