garrycol

Thanks already looked at them - hellishly expensive here where the 14CUX is cheap and can be locally upgraded.

Thanks - I will get a hotwire idle stepper from a wrecker and check it out. The Thor PWM is self contained and remote from the intake and simply unbolts so there should be space for the idle stepper but will find out when I get one.

You just use a spacer on the crank - you use a cam with the dizzy drive and the oil pump is in the timing cover being driven by the cam. All standard stuff.

Is the 4CUX idle valve a autonomous part like the Thor PWM or is it built into the manifold?

Is too hard with no real support outside the UK/US - looking at other options. I would like to keep this discussion on the 4CUX running a idle air valve on a Thor manifold and not a discussion on the pros and cons of Megasquirt.

Great - thanks for that information - confirms what I had in the back of my mind. Cheers Garry

I am putting in a Thor 4.6 into my 101. ECUs are an issue so I am thinking of putting a distributor onto the front of the engine but would like to keep the Thor inlet system - the easiest ECU to use would be a 4CUIX as they are cheap and readily available and can be remapped to provide the extra fuel for the 4.6 over a 3.9. Now I am not all that familiar with the 4CUIX but one I believe sensor inputs are similar to the Thor Motronic system. One difference is the PWM valve on the Thor to provide air to the engine at idle - I believe the 4CUIX has some sort of stepper motor system to provide a similar function - so will the 4CUIX be able to control the Thor PWM or would I need to rig up a 4CUIX system on the Thor. Are there any other complications I may have missed? Also does the 4CUIX support knock sensors? Thanks Garry

They are one of the worst engines around - atrocious reliability - as bad as the 1800 version. The KV6 was also used in the first Kia Carnival and they all went quickly to the big carpark in the sky as their engines cooked. I believe the Freelander L series diesel goes in a series pretty well. Garry

Yes - I guess I was just waiting for someone to tell me. I think I will just adjust the trigger wheel sensor and maybe the trigger wheel if necessary so that the timing reads 10BTDC via Edis rather than going through the whole process of finding TDC again. Cheers Garry

This is very important - I have a 4.6 which has no timing pointer or marks on the harmonic balancer - I set up a pointer and marks after determining TDC via measuring No1 piston position - I then had the engine running on Edis in default mode so supposedly 10 BTDC but when I put the timing light on it it was showing 15 BTDC - so I have doubt in my mind that the marks are correct - or does Edis actually deliver 10 BDTC - I dont know. I am going to try again to measure TDC in the engine and if necessary readjust the marks but the engine is now in the vehicle so will be hard to do because No 1 cylinder is up near body work. So with any MS system you need to have TDC measured correctly - with MS you still want about 3-10BTDC (I would go 10 on 95RON) at idle (800rpm) - adjust the trigger wheel pick up to get the idle timing you want, and then of course as you increase revs MS should then advance the timing (there are preferred timing vs revs graphs available on line) but generally you will advance up to somewhere around 30/35 BTDC depending on what you want. Of course MS should also change timing also based on load (MAP sensor) but that is hard to measure when setting up in the garage. I went with MS3 so can use my knock sensors to adjust timing if things get too advanced in some circumstances so in theory I can use MS3 to keep the engine as advanced as possible for any circumstance - I say in theory as I have not got my MS connected up yet and have been running on LPG with Edis in default mode and no electronic control of the gas. At 10 degrees (maybe 15) the engine starts fine and runs fine at all load conditions all at fixed timing - when I thought it would start to suffer with retarded ignition at higher revs - but didn't seem to happen. Garry

Static timing is 3 BDTC but it can handle up to 10 BDTC static timing if you are confident on fuel quality or use higher octane fuels.

I guess UK people will know what year a 51 plate is - I had to google it and came up with 2001/02 - now this is the transition period for the 2.0 L series Diesel (Di) to the 2.0 BMW TD4 (both were termed 2.0 not 1.9 but just a minor point). So both had ECUs with the L series just controlling the fueling of the fuel pump where the TD4 ECU controls everything. In either case I cannot answer you question but someone who can will need to know where it is an L series diesel or a TD4. Cheers Garry

Ok thanks for the clarification

If that has the BW transfer box then they must have changed the axles etc as I understand the BW drive shafts are on the left not the right like other earlier transfer cases.

Lifeguard 8 is for the ZF 8 speed gearbox and is not suitable for your gearbox. Use LG 6 only in your gearbox. Advanced Factors will have the sump - make sure you get one with a drain plug - also the filter and bolts. The sump which is the same as the BMW one can also be purchased at a reasonable price from ZF dealers (I got mine from one) also they sell the LG 6 but usually in 20 litre drums. garry

The Landrover specification is .61 litres of Castrol SAF-XO - 75W/90 spec grade oil Now any high quality Full Synthetic 75W/90 diff/gear oil will be suitable. I have used Fuchs and Penrite oils in the past with no issues. If you a standard rear diff it takes 1.1l of the same oil. If you have a e-diff rear diff then it needs a different oil. GGarry If

One of three things. Could be the rear diff mounts have failed allowing the diff to hit the body. More likely is the viscous coupling (VC) in the tail shaft has failed causing windup in the drive train - this then causes the drive in the Intermediate Reduction Drive (IRD) that sends the drive to the rear (is a crown wheel and pinion) to fail - the bearing are over loaded and fail causing the crown wheel to wobble causing it to unmesh from the pinion. The meshing and unmeshing causes the banging you can feel. To temporary stop this disconnect the drive to rear of the car. With no drive there is no load and the IRD bearings can cope. The VC needs to be tested and replaced. Lastly - the knock can be caused by a failed inner CV on the front drive. You need to explore further

Service Schedule below - top - right hand column

I agree with small fry - look at the VC carrier bearings first. Noise with the the prop shaft in and no noise when the prop shaft is out points to one of the following : the bearings in the rear of the IRD where the rear drive is taken from (these can be noisy with the load of the prop shaft but fine when there is no load like when the shaft is out), the front prop shaft CV, any of the universal joints in the drive shaft or the bearings that hold the VC in place. The most common failure is the bearings that hold the VC in place and these are relatively easy to replace. If it was the bearings in the rear of the IRD you would probably hear loud bashing a crashing as worn bearings can allow the crown wheel and pinion of the rear drive to unmesh. The CV on the front of the prop shaft goes on forever and the first you would probably find is it being so worn there would be no drive to the rear. The UJs would make noise but are like any other UJ. With the prop shaft in place and looking for movement in the CV, the carrier bearings, or the UJs should be obvious. You also need to test the VC - if you look on Youtube and type in "test freelander viscous coupling" you will see lots of vids on this - I did one about 8 years ago that is there but cannot find it but there are plenty of others. Look to the VC carrier bearings first. Garry

Yep

Actually it is an EU pollution thing where waste oil polluting the environment is a no no so to meet environmental requirements manufacturers are extending oil change requirements to minimise oil use and waste.

That is an old wives tale - the service schedule does not mention anything about "sealed for life" - now it is a long time but not sealed for life - 10 years or 250,000km whatever is earlier but there are is a caveat about arduous use shortening the time - city driving is considered arduous use so the "approved" time is actually far less than 250,000km or 10 years for the average car - nothing about sealed for life. It is all in the official service record document that list service types and intervals. Nevertherless you point about accountants etc is quite valid as even though the LR service interval for the ZF gearbox is up to 250,000km, ZF themselves claim the service interval on their gearbox should be less than 80,000km (max) depending on use - a lot different the the LR interval.

With the rear seats folded flat you can sleep in the back of a RRS - a double mattress will fit and at 6' I can fit in the back of mine - I do agree though a D3 is 5" longer in the wheelbase so you have that extra room inside of the D3

Making a statement not answering questions.

DOHC diesels have been around for years - nothing special about them. Require minimal day to day servicing - cam belts etc are no harder or easier than any other belt OHC engine. Brakes - the same as any modern vehicle. No problem. Suspension arms are basically the same as any modern IFS vehicle - yes airbags are different but are relatively simple to replace though rarely needed. The air system itself is just a series of tubes and valve blocks all easy to service if needed - the main issue is the compressor which are rebuildable or easily replaced. Gearbox, tfr case and diffs are easily maintained but if there is a gearbox or tfr case problem then they are off to the experts. Sorry if you look at these vehicles in the cold light of day and without the bull - underneath they are not a lot different to other vehicles. Yes some things are best left to the technicians but most routine maintenance is possible at home. My car is now 11 years old, is used offroad quite a bit - it still has its original air compressor, all original suspension components, original engine, gearbox, diffs and tfr case, but it does have a new alternator early in the year - took about 1 hour 20 mins to do - outstanding work I will do shortly - complete rear brakes (the fronts done last month and took about 1 1/2 hours) and front lower suspension arms - I will probably get someone to put the suspension arms in as I have arthritic shoulders and probably could not undo the hi torque bolts without hurting myself but you only need to watch Youtube to find out how to do these and many other maintenance work on these cars. Once you start working on these cars the mystic soon disappears.