garrycol

Thanks Johnno - yes there are alternatives - such as magnets strapped to a driveshaft as used in some cruise control systems but a purpose made transducer that allows speedo cable use with a pulse takeoff would be preferred. Pulse rate needs to be about 8000 pulses per mile. Cheers Garry

Thanks for the comments - I will try without and see how we go and if there are issues get a generator. Cheers Garry

Thanks - the gearbox is an LT95 not a LT230 etc I will see how if runs without speed input and if there is an issue deal with that then - there are clearly options. Cheers Garry

I am looking at this to provide speed input to a 14CUX (Hotwire) ECU in my FC101. A friend also has a FC101 with 14CUX system and he does not have any speed input to his ECU and the vehicle runs and idles fine. So is speed input important to the 14CUX Hotwire ECU? Thanks Garry

Thanks - that is what I thought but I was a bit unsure.

I need to get an electronic speed signal from a LT95 transfer case and was thinking of attaching a Pass-through Pulse Generator to the speedo cable - something like this https://www.kam.com.au/pass-through-pulse-generator.html Does anyone know of a similar product that will fit a LT95 speedo cable? Thanks Garry

With a RV8 that is on carbs but ignition is being provided EDIS 8/MegaJolt (so no dizzy) and I wanted to replace the carbs with the 14CUX (Hotwire) injection system from a 3.9 V8, where would I take the ignition signal off the EDIS 8/MegaJolt system for the Hotwire ECU to operate? In the original setup 3.9 dizzy and coil arrangement, the Hotwire ECU would have taken the 12v B+ signal from the low tension side of the coil. I am not sure what is the equivalent is with EDIS 8/Megajolt. Not sure if it is relevant or not, but I have built this tach module to run my dash tacho and it works fine - so maybe this signal can be used for the Hotwire injection system - would seem to be the equivalent of the 12v B+ on an old style dizzy and coil. Tach_adapter_sch Advice gladly received 😍 - oh yes as has been discussed previously, MS is the way to go but please can we just stay with MJ at the moment. There will be a time before not too long when the MS3X questions will start in earnest, so please bear with me. Thanks Garry

Just remember the L320 has conventional shock aborbers (dampers) and unconventional springs (air) (they are separate components in the combined suspension strut) - you describe a problem with the Electronic Air Suspension (EAS). In view of the air compressor issue you will need to get it checked out as well as the front and central air blocks - also check the front airbags and air pipe connectors for leaks - these may be causing the air compressor to be over working. Garry

Maybe it just needs new shock absorbers (dampers).

Sorry if find the 1000 pages of MS3 documentation is just too overwhelming for me at the moment - the dedicated MS forum is carp and there is no support locally - most tuners have never heard of MS and don't want to talk to you about it. Megajolt is cheap basically ready to go out of the box initially (yes I will have to do some fine tuning while help with MS later) and while from the same family as MS is just simpler for me. Not doing MS at the moment. As megajolt is not home built - there will be more chance of selling it on at a later stage if I want as the internals will not be played with by some amateur like me. I built my MS3 and I cannot get it to work on Jim Stim so it will probably go in the bin. If there were people locally to assist that might be different but there is no one. The nearest person to me that I know who uses it is over 350km away Thanks Garry

Ok - gotta come clean as I found out something yesterday. But first this was the engine running on carbs with EDIS on default two years ago - starts easy and ran well. Then as you can see it was still on carbs and the EDIS wiring was just linked together with twisted wiring and electrician tape for insulation - but it ran and actually with fixed ignition ran very well even under load. Since then the carb manifold has come off and a Thor manifold on in anticipation of MS3. The Edis wiring was hard wired in and last week I tried to start the engine without MS3 on starter fluid with LPG but it backfired etc. In frustration I took the Thor manifold off and put the carbs back on thinking I could get it to start on petrol but alas no it did not happen. Then as, mentioned I fixed the plug to the coil issues but it still would not fire correctly. Sometime back someone either here or on another forum someone said that the symptoms I had was if the firing order was wrong and I checked this 3 times and it was correct. With this in the back of my mind and having just found a fault in the coil plugs I deciding to verify the EDIS wiring was all correct. I pulled out EDIS and put it back where I had it in the vid above - on the passenger seat floor - I thing unpicked all the cable shrink wrap and tape on all the wiring and then it was obvious for all (me) the see. I had wired the coils the wrong way around - you can see that I had them right at the start in the vid and somehow doing the permanent wiring I got it all wrong. Now it was not that I had plugged in the plugs into the wrong coil, but I had actually sent the wires for the left coil to the right coil and vice versa - the harness to the right coil is a lot longer than the one to the left so I had not just plugged in the wrong plug to the wrong coil - I completely stuffed it up - I cut the cables and reconnected them the correct way. Well the engine fired on first start (it will not run on the carbs) but with a dribble of starter fluid going into I managed to get it to do a reasonable idle for two minutes - so now I know I have reasonable ignition and just need to sort the carbs that have been sitting for 2 years so just might need a clean out - I will see if i can get it to run on the LPG this week before playing with the carbs. So it has taken a little while but with all your help I have been able solve this little mystery - and cause myself a little embarrassment. Ultimately this engine will be injected and running on MS3 with no EDIS but what this issue has reminded me is that it is best to deal with one issue at a time. So the plan is now to leave EDIS as it is and get the engine running on the carbs (where I was 2 years ago). Buy a Megajolt ECU so that when still on carbs I have full ignition control. When I have that I will pull the carbs off and put on a 14CUX injection manifold and get it running on its ECU with Megajolt ignition. Then bring in the MS3 to start on ignition or fuel then both and do away with EDIS - then sell off EDIS, Megajolt, 14CUX ECU etc. I dont want to be sorting fuel or ignition at the same time - it is too stressful. Thanks for all your help. Garry

I bought two new coils and when I was putting them in I found out why cylinders 1 and 6 were not working. The coil connectors what were provided by a Megasquirt seller when I got the trigger wheel, edis and coils are of extreme poor quality and the metal connectors in the plastic can turn from horizontal by up to 45 degrees and when inserting the plug into the coil the feed for cylinder 1 and 6 must have been twisted and the connector in the coil pack pushed it out but also damaged it. I straightened it all out and put is all back in so I now have spark but the engine will still not fire up. Yesterday I reject the timing and trigger wheel alignment, the VR sensor is on tooth number 5 and the sensor is 1mm from the teeth - that is the closest I can get it. With a bit of starter fluid it is still fluffing back out the intake but now a little into the exhaust. While it is fluffing a bit rather than backfiring the engine is not trying to run at all. I am running out of ideas. Cheers Garry

Thanks for all the comments. Yes, the ones that are not working are the front two on one pac - cylinders 1 and 6 which are a wasted spark pair so when 1 fires so does 6 and vice versa. I need to go to my local car shop to get some more - the ones I have came from the UK (either Megaquirt-V8 or Trigger wheels - cant remember) and I think they were for Escorts - now we do not have those cars here, so what general spec I should be looking at for replacements. Thanks Garry

Trying to get my RV8 to run on carbs with EDIS8 in default mode - has run before see here https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... ps6l_3Mrno It ran on its carbs with Petrol and LPG on EDIS 8 in default - actually ran quite well, but it is not running now. Fault finding I find it has virtually no spark and cylinders 1 and 6 (wasted spark pair) have no spark at all - is not the spark plugs as they are new and work fine, the leads are OK - the issue is in either the trigger wheel (not sure I have that right), the sensor, edis 8 module or the coil packs. I am currently pulling it all back out and rewiring it to see if that is an issue - unfortunately I am not familiar with this gear and there is no local expertise on megasquirt in my area. Other than the wiring I do not know how to test the Edis module or the coil packs. Any other ideas on what the issue might be. Thanks Garry

Yes add the early 110s to your list - also Aussie Perentie 4x4 and 6x6. Basic system for CDL is the same on all - a vacuum arrangement with a vacuum switch. Control cables and gear levers are different (but work the same basic way) in all models.

Half the engines were not fitted to the Defender - yes the previous Land Rover 110/90 etc but not the Defender. I guess the author is assuming the previous 110/90 was a Defender which it was not. The Isuzu engines were never fitted to Defender only the Landrover 110 (and Perentie Variations) and the Series 3 Stage 1 109.

Sorry but any over heated 1.8 will most likely have slipped liners as well as all the other issues mentioned above. Did you do the thermostat/cooling mod to stop the thermal shock that kills these engines - it most likely overheated due to the thermostat being closed and the engine getting hot and then letting a rush of cold coolant into the hot engine and causing thermal shock. I bet this was the reason you had the engine replaced originally. Unfortunately the replacement engines also failed a short time later as the engine themselves were Ok but not the cooling system. You have a good good run out of this second engine. Local used car yards used to take out the thermostat while the cars were on their used car lot in case they failed. No thermostat then no thermal shock - only worked in summer though. There was a mod that virtually eliminated the thermal shock problem with the 1.8. Garry

I am glad you have this sorted (well sort of). garry

To me I would have thought it would have been in the transfer case section but it is hidden at the back. You should download the PDF versions of the documents as they are helpful. Now I am not surprised you are having difficulty finding parts for this even at 101 suppliers are it is only the 101 that has this type of PTO - others are chain driven. I had my PTO out a few years back and it is all quite intuitive. I would just take the worn bearings to a industrial supply place and get them matched. Really the PTO sits there doing nothing for 99.99% of its life so when you put it back together, intuition on how it looks and feels (noting sizes of bits you have replaced) should be fine. My universal between the PTO and the winch is a little worn but given I have only used it 5 times in the last 10 years it is just not worth the hassle of changing it. As far as end float goes - in the absence of specs I would just ensure and slack is taken out when cold (but not tight) so that it might tighten just a little when warm. I assume the bearing that has collapsed is on the constant mesh side so it turning without load when the tfr case is turning - I am surprised it has collapsed as it is under no load 99.99% of the time and only under load when winching. I would be checking why it has failed - eg corrosion, something else has failed in the transfer case and it has had swarf in it. Anyway - good luck with it - the 101 is the best 😎 Garry

The Overhaul and repair manual does have the PTO information in it in the optional Equipment Section 90.20.05 The 101 was never sold as a commercial vehicle so its part numbers do not exist in the standard LR parts system. You need to contact 101/military parts suppliers such as 101 Parts https://www.101parts.co.uk/, the 101Club, Planchards etc. Garry

I doubt that charger will be suitable for Lithium batteries.

Lithium camping batteries need a particular charging regime so need a dc/dc charger that has a lithium setting on them - these are available but I have only seen them in a 12v - 12v configuration - you will need to see if any are available. Also, I assume you know that lithium batteries in about the 100Ah size are still hellish expensive so you really need to be sure that you need their smaller size and smaller weight.

Do you have bi-xenon lights? If so, the halogen lights are just fillers as the main high beam is in the Bi-Xenon projector. If you do not have bi-xenon then yes the Halogen is the hi beam - you can adjust the lights but it also adjusts the low beam at the same time. I put HIDs into my hi beams and worked great except that light up took a while so I went back to super bright Halogens which are good. I have not tried LEDs as I did not think they had the range for hi beams but if you can adjust the bulbs separately to the housings that may help. Garry

Do not get one that has a higher load rating than you need - when used at lower load rating than designed they so not stretch much and provide high shock loads.

Thanks for that - very helpful