garrycol

I am not sure why the UK is so backward as far as electric trailer brakes are concerned - in Aust and most other places we have had them for years and they work exceptionally well and in cases of emergency the trailer brakes can be operated independently of the tow vehicle - correcting bad sway etc. Most of our caravans are twice the weight of your flimsy UK vans and 99.9% have electric trailer brakes fitted as standard.

Megasquirt might be OK in the UK where you have support but not in places like Australia or NZ - it might work well but is difficult to set up, the documentation is not very good and the website is not helpful. Go with a 3.9 injection system and use a 14CUX ECU on whatever engine you choose. Garry

Standard Heads will not raise compression ratio - all Rover heads are basically the same with minor changes between engines. To raise compression ratio you need to change from low compression pistons to high compression pistons.

No - it will be specific for the model you have - have you spent 5 minutes of your life and checked the other locations - if it is not on the other spring hangers it will have been where there welding has been done. Its not all that hard.

Pedal sink is the first action of the pedal moving the shoes out to the drums and the second application is then breaking. The issue is that the shoes are not adjusted up. Adjust brake adjuster on each wheel until the wheel is locked then back off just enough to allow the wheel the move. Adjust them up and if within tolerances all should be OK - if not then either shoes are too worn, drums are too worn or a combination of both. Make sure the adjuster post on the shoe is tight and make sure the cams are not worn and loose. To test for air or leaks - test as advised above - lock brakes and test pedal. Garry

I found an old 67-71 2a chassis in the bush 2 weeks ago and its number was as I indicated - the passenger rear - likewise another earlier series 2 I inspected for club registration was also on the passenger rear. I think series 1s are up the front somewhere, and my 101 is the front drivers side. Does it really matter as it will only take 5 minutes to have a look on all spring hangers - it doesn't need to be hard.

The chassis number should be stamped on the rear passenger side spring hanger

Not all that relevant to the issue, but when I lived in the UK many, many years ago I lived in East Street Hambledon - was a great little village that used to have a small garage at the northern end - was able to work on my V12 Etype but is probably not there any longer. Garry

It is not a 101 pulley - nothing like it. I have a 24v 101. More like something from a car that runs power steering and airconditioning as well as water pump and alternator - like a Range Rover Classic. The 101 pulley has two slots for the 24v alternator (twin belt) and one other for the water pump (single belt).

The 4.6 and 4.0 blocks are the same so the issue that you have with crank sensor on the 4.6 would apply equally with the 4.0 block.

All 4.0 block are cross bolted and have larger diameter crank journals. The 4.2 is a development of the 3.9 engine so you will need a 3.9 block to put the 4.2 crank into. The journals on the 4.2 crank are the same as the 3.9 crank. If you want the resultant engine to still be a Gems - all the Gems stuff will still bolt on but you may need to change the timing cover etc. As the 3.9 block has the cross bolt pads you may want to consider drilling them and the main bearing caps and making them cross bolted but is not totally needed.

1973 - 74 Morris 1300 Auto (first car - not my decision to buy) 1974 - 77 Valiant (Mitshushi) Galant 1974 - 75 Honda 125 SL 1975 - 77 Cooper 250 Motocross 1977 - 82 Lancia Beta Coupe 1977 - 80 Yamaha 400 DTS 1978 - 85 Landrover Series 1 86 1980 - 96 Kawasaki 250 TL 1982 - 1983 Renault 16 TS (in the UK) 1982 - Now Jaguar Series 3 E-type (bought in the UK) 1985 - 88 Suzuki Sierra LWB 1985 - 87 Honda CBR 550F 1987 - 1989 BMW K100 1988 - 92 Landrover Series 3 1992 - 04 Jaguar XJ 5.3C (wreck) 1992 - 99 Ford Escort Mk2 1992 - 05 Subaru Leone 4wd 1994 - 94 Discovery 3.9 V8 1994 - 05 Discovery 3.9 V8 (update) 2004 - 12 Freelander L series diesel 2007 - Now Kawasaki 250 TL 2007 - Now Series 1 Landrover 88 2008 - Now Series 1 Landrover 88 Station Wagon 2008 - Now Landrover FC 101 2010 - Now Range Rover Sport TDV6 2012 - Now Haflinger 700AP Some pics

If you say so - if it were so then people and specialists would be using standard tools. Why not go onto https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/ and ask there.

Standard pullers and presses do not work and a special kit is needed - is not a LR kit - here is one example https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvhQ0OuZft0 https://mthire.com.au/products/land-rover-control-arm-bush-tool-discovery-3-range-rover-sport https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/6180 Just google Discovery 3 lower control arm bush tool and you will see plenty of options.

A special tool is needed to change the bushes which most shops do not carry hence changing the complete arms as in the end it works out only marginally more expensive. If you have the expensive tools or know a shop that has them then Advanced Factors sell suitable bushes - I would definitely stay away from the poly bushes - yes they work well but ride is awful. MEYLE brand sold by Advanced Factors are considered the best. https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/steering--suspension-12-c.asp https://www.advancedfactors.co.uk/lr051585-53-146100001-meyle-front-lower-suspension-arm-front-bush-rbx500311-1724-p.asp

Doh - I did not even consider the 4 cylinder 2a/3 starters would be even the same as the V8s - opens up a new world. I guess I need to think more laterally. These did not come up on any search for V8 starter brushes. Thanks a million. Garry

Does anyone know where I can get the early starter motor "wedge" style starter brushes - all the ones I have seen are the later "block" style from about 1986 on and I have not found the earlier style. This the style I am after IMG_20190629_151007 Cheers Garry

That vid shows nothing about how the terrain response system works but shows exactly the traction control system works.

The puma defender uses the P38 rear diff.

Yes - thanks - unfortunately we have no local old guys doing this sort of thing and it will have to be sent interstate for rewinding at an expensive business if the new armature does not work.

This morning I was able to locate a local supplier who has new 24v armatures for a good price (equiv of £50). As it was the armature and the brush holder that was wrecked, this armature and the spare 12v brush holder should see the problem resolved. Cheers Garry

Thanks for both those comments. Yes considered a 12v starter - they are cheap as chips but not sure how they would stand up to 24v on a difficult start. I am considering changing the starter to 12v but being started from my aux 12v battery but that will mean changing it from a deep cycle battery to a hybrid deepcycle/starter battery but run the problem of running the now aux/starter battery down when camping etc. Normally the aux would be isolated from the starter - though I could always jump start the 12v from the 24v batteries if it was flat. I have considered changing the vehicle over to 12v but as you have listed there are a lot of components there and it is just not something I would want to do at the moment but may consider in the future. Cheers Garry

The starter motor fitted to my 24v FC 101 V8 has disintegrated and as a minimum requires an new armature and brush housing. I suppose I can get it rewound etc but will be expensive so I have been looking online for a replacement. I have looked at all the usual 101 parts suppliers and those that do list the 24v starter are out of stock and the one that does have them want £300 which when landed back in Australia will be close to £450. Looking for suggestions for where I should look for alternatives or other suppliers. Thanks Garry

You can make the 4.6 look original like a 3.5 if you use the 3.5 ancilliaries. I agree with others, if you are going to go to all the effort and cost of rebuilding a 3.5 - go a bigger version - as a minimum a 3.9 and with a stroker crank a 4.2. On that kit - how do you know what size main and bigend bearing shells are required without measuring and machining your current crank, likewise pistons and rings - without check and boring/honing what size rings and pistons will you need. Garry

Just to help those with possible answers - is the 4.6 a Gems or Thor engine and is the crankshaft sensor you are using, the original one on the flywheel or have you put on a trigger wheel arrangement? Garry