garrycol

The R380 is considered marginal behind a Thor 4.6 V8, but the LT95 and 4.6 in my 101 handles its torque without any issues. Unless you have deep pockets and know someone who can get a TDV8 to run in isolation away from a body ECU of a RRS then this engine would not really be an option.

Modern oils can corrode the bronze components of the gearbox - the correct engine oil works well and the shift is fine - stay with it. I cannot help with the other questions - my LT95 just works fine. I lock the CDL when offroad and unlock it on the hard stuff - not sure what you mean spin oil out. Garry

I used to get up to 70mph in my 56 series 1 with a Holden 161, the valves were bouncing as that engine does not like to rev as the LR 2 litre does but the issue was that at 68mph the death wobbles in the front wheels would settle in. Garry

But if you disconnect them then you will just get the same codes and any following cascading codes.

Definitely do the above - also be aware that when you get a primary fault you will/may get secondary fault as a direct result of the primary fault - sometimes it is obvious what is going on sometimes not - I generally ignore communication faults if there are other major faults exist. Also be aware that when a fault is fixed it may still continue to display until after one or two starts. Eg - I had alternator faults where everything lights up - fixed the alternator, cleared faults with my FCR and restarted - some faults continued until two starts. On your list I would look at the IAT and MAF faults first, then see what remains - the others may be important but who knows. Garry

4.0 pistons will raise the compression ratio depending on what you are starting off with - you need to change out the 4.0 gudgeon pins for the 4.6 gudgeon pins as the 4.6 pins have thicker walls.

Ok to put you out of your misery (but I dont know why the OP would ask his question on a UK forum). The Holden 130 to 202 cubic inch engines are a range of 6 cylinder car (tractor) engines fitted to Holden vehicles from the late 40s to the mid 80s. There are variants (Grey (first types) red (most Common) and later Blue and Black - really all were developments of each other. Google them for the detail. The red engines in particular the 161 and the 186 were a standard conversion for Landrovers in Australia in the late 60s to 80s. Landrover engines were very expensive to repair and fitting the Holden 6 became a standard much cheaper conversion - offering a bit more power but not much more in the way of road speed because of the standard gearing. Kits were available to so the conversion and authorities gave class engineering approval for the conversion. I got my series 1 86 in 1977 and it still had its 2 litre engine that was of questionable reliability so in 1979 changed it to a Holden 161 cubic inch 6 cylinder which I ran for the next 6 years as an everyday driver with no real issues. The Holden 6 could not rev as well as the Rover engine hence it did not have a higher top speed but the Holden had more torque and could pull better through the gears. The 186 engine was considered the sweetest engine of the lot - it seemed more balanced, revved easier and seemed more relaxed. The 202 being a larger engine had more power but seemed to work harder to produce what it had. For the OP - if the issue is just tappets and valves etc then stay with the 186 but if a bottom end rebuild as required it will obvious cost - if the 202 is ready to go straight in then but it in but only on the basis there is little extra cost involved - it will replace the 186 no issues. Garry

In would not quite agree with that view - the first Kia Carnival was fitted with this engine and in Australia there is not one of these vehicles left on the road - all died due to engine failure.

There is nothing wrong with HIDs - Landrover have been fitting them as OEM equipment since the early 2000s and they work fine - I have converted the halogens in my RRS to HIDs and they work great. However technology has moved on and certainly for low beam I would look at LEDs - LEDs are not quite there yet for Hi Beam but good elsewhere where you do not want distance.

Doesn't look like a 101 canvas - looks too short, there should be straps all along the seem above the windows to allow the sides to be rolled up and the tie down ropes go on the inside of the top not the bottom. As far as the windows go, originally there were no side windows in the main sides of the canvas but there is a small window at the front on the passenger side to allow the driver to see over his shoulder when turning. While no windows in the side as original, they can be fitted. Here is a pic of my 101 with its original canvas - note the buckles along the top seam (the straps are on the inside), the lower tie downs on the inside of the canvas, not the outside like yours, also note the small window at the front (on a LHD vehicle the small window is on the opposite side). Also - you can see the sewing for your windows so it looks as it it is on your trailer inside out. Garry

If the starter motor turns but no drive is getting to the flywheel then it may very well be the bendix - before failing completely they sometimes grip, sometimes not and then then engine will not turn over - but then cheap aftermarket starters are available on line for far less than the cost of buying a new bendix and getting it professionally fitted.

There is a small clutch type mechanism in the starter that can slip - this sounds like what you have - it slips and next time it bites and the engine turns over. Mine failed a while back and I just replaced the part This is a pic of a 3.5 starter and the bit is RTC834. Later starter like yours also have this.

As indicated - what engine, what gearbox what do the codes say - they will point to the issue.

When the R380 first went into service in late 93/94 ATF was specified as no suitable MTF was available. Within a year MTF94 (94 being the year it was introduced) was specified as the replacement oil for the R380. ATF has good gear change qualities but less effective wear qualities. Use a modern equivalent to MTF 94, something like Castrol Syntrans. Garry

I just had a look though the 101 parts manual, the vehicle handbook and the workshop manual and while they do give some general dimensions of the vehicle itself I could not find anything specific to the chassis along the lines you are seeking. I can only suggest contacting maybe the 101 Club or Able Engineering who may have something. Likewise you could put up what sections you are specifically looking for and 101 owners like myself could get out and do some measuring for you. Cheers Garry

Yes they did but that would have been mainly because there is no space at the front with alternator, a/c compressor, power steering etc and they can be mounted centrally with spark lead length being the same for opposite cylinders. On my 4.6 I have mounted the coil pacs on top of what would have been the A/C mount at the front left of the engine - they work fine but it is a long distance to reach number 8 cylinder. garry

Well its a D4 not a D2 - if you have an issue concerning the safety design of your car I suggest you take it up with LR - I have never heard of the emergency stop aspect of the EPB failing.

What sort of catastrophic failure do you envisage - noting that each brake has essentially its own brake circuit. Head out onto a gravel road and get up to 60kph and pull on the EPB and see what happens - don't forget to hang on 🤣

Google is your friend - try it sometime or get a reader that gives a description as well as the code. If you Google landrover fault code P140D you will get pages of hits. P140D should be the left hand side EGR.

With these vehicles if you pull on the handbrake while the vehicle is moving - as on rollers or on the road braking effort is not provided by the handbrake shoes in the rear drums, the emergency brake on these vehicles operates the disk brakes on all four wheels. As I indicated above the handbrake shoes only hold the vehicle, not stop it. In theory the handbrake shoes should never wear out as they are not used on a turning brake drum, however they fill with dirt which does wear them. If there is a emergency handbrake issue when doing an MOT on a rolling road, or via a decelerometer test then the actual disk brakes need to be looked at. Garry

Your VCU sounds quite normal - there has to be a substantial difference in speed between the front and rear wheels for the VCU to lock - when the VCU fails it locks - the opposite of what you have - maybe be a heavier approach on the throttle to spin the front wheels will get it to lock up quicker.

Noting that the shoes in the rear drums on a D3/4 is not the emergency brake but simply designed to stop the car rolling away when stopped, even in the state you have shown they may have been good enough to hold the car when stopped in the past.

Well in Aust we do not have an issue with electric brakes where they are normal for trailers/vans over 2 tonne which is the max weight for overrun brakes here. And yes in many of our jurisdictions there is an annual MOT for trailers over a certain weight though in some there is no requirement.

Not for a Thor system it is not.