Bowie69

Just out of interest, would the rims be wide enough for 235/85/16?

Just double-checked, it is an add-on written by HTC.... which I guess is why you don't have one

Sounds good

weldequip (trades through the phone and Ebay) does the Clarke 150TE (new version) for £219 delivered, I got one from him and no complaints whatsoever from me! He also frequents www.mig-welding.co.uk

No-one, was just browsing your website and spotted it! I know exactly where Wellington is, I'm onyl about 30 mins away, just had never spotted it before Quarterly would be great, although if numbers got too much, 6 a year maybe? Classes are good, but I wouldn't want to comment on what is/isn't allowed

I'd expect the tyre size is down to rolling diameter, not width, and as 265/75 is SLIGHTLY smaller than 235/85 I reckon you will be OK, but let the JST confirm

This would be VERY interesting....... Out of interest, where abouts is the Wellington site?

The Salisbury axle will eman your rear prop will be shorter, but I can't tell you by how much atm! I am sure someone has done this before and can get a tape measure out

Weird.... it's actually a little annoying, when you close lots of programs, with the X and end up on 'Today', it the pops up with the task mangler, if you click once too many times......

There's a Task Manager in WM6 top right, on the today screen, rigth where the 'x' normally is on other programs. Or there is on my TytnII, WM6...

Whoops..... I do apologise.....

You will still wear your tyres out very fast on the front, with no diff action between them.... Have a look here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ackermann_steering_geometry You can see clearly that the inside wheel will have to turn more slowly than the outside when going round a corner. This is fine off road as the wheel slip easily on the surface, but on hte hard stuff you will at best wear your tyres, at worst have a vehicle that won't go round corners or skip across the road when you do. I would definately not recommend it for on-road use. Bowie.

Duckhams Q-Grade 'green' 20w50 I find to be the best all-rounder for my older engines...... 5w50? I guess this V8 is newly rebuilt.....

Most likely not, the later one is a viscous diff, the other a manually locking centre diff.

I don't think it will cost any more than normal to get it done with unleaded valve seats tbh, in fact I would be surpsied if an engineering firm supplied unhardened seats at all.

Common consensus is......... don't bother with additives etc, they would cost more than a newly refurbed head over time, and by the time any valve seat recession DOES occur, the rest of the engine will need an overhaul anyways.

You'd still have problems with prop angles.....

Only immediate problem I could see would be the drasticly increased propshaft angles..... if you already have a 2" suspension lift then you are going to be in real trouble with your UJs! Actual technical difficulties of doing what you suggest.... well I don't know too much about the gearboxes on these things..... that's this winter's job on my lightweight Bowie.

TBH, if you can just get a decent link to a google map that shows your localtion it would be a MASSIVE improvement

I really think you could do with a webby Really tempted to get down there this weekend, got a make with an Rocsta, and want to see him get stuck But then I spose I will get stuck in my Rangie as well

My 1991 RRC V8 Auto gets pretty hot -the carpet on the side of the transmission tunnel is lovely and warm

I might be up for this on Sunday?

If that's your setup, then yes, you probably are at the far end of leaf-sprung articulation, and they would most likely help you out here! Original reply was based on you haveing no major mods, but as you have......... Let us know how you get on mate

I can think of more important things to spend £85 on, but if you were to, then I would suspect it is just a case of pressing the old out, and pressing the new in..... oh and the new set of springs you'll need unless you already have them

Have two batteries, charge them in parallel, and draw for the radio off them in series..... 12V in, 24V out.... althought you will probably need to upgrade your 12V alternator -this is if you want to run them int eh truck of course! If you just want to run them on a bench then 2x12V batteries in series is fine.