Bowie69

No, but no point fusing something higher than the cable is rated, it's not fused then, is it....

That's good to know re:microsquirt TCU, I knew they used that hardware, wasn't sure what had happened, since, it always felt quite an expensive route, but if it now runs on the GPIO extender then definitely the way to go.

As I understand it, yes, the bellhousing are swappable. In fact, you can interchange a lot of the later electronic boxes internal parts to strengthen the HP22, but still end up with a hydraulically controlled box, if that's what you want. The HP24 can be controlled with Megashift, but I'm not an expert on MS3, for all I know it may have trans control built in now. The shift solenoids are the same as, I think, the 4L60E, but do some research, there's only so many ways you can't turn on and off two solenoids!

I'd start by wanting to know what the battery to fuse box wire is rated to, otherwise 200A may just allow it all to catch fire happily while not blowing.

Even so, 50A seems rather light.

Well, he does now, you wait. As I've never used one, I can't recommend.... But Merlin or similar will have something on the shelf.

Suspect 50A won't be nearly enough I'm afraid... Depending on what equipment you have fitted. Heated rear window can be 20-30A by itself, headlamps 10A, heater 10A, ecu/engine 10A... And that's just off the top of my head, there will be a lot more.

No other place for it, plus it is out of the mire where it is.... And the inlet isn't that bad of a job.

Honestly I wouldn't put an external pump in an MGB, they are really noisy and MGBs are hardly the best soundproofed vehicles. I would look for a swirl pot with built in pump, and rubber mount it, or it will be really, really invasive. That way the current fuel pump stays in place and feeds the swirl pot.

Madness.

Yep, most likely.

Bring the revs up a bit and see if you get greater than 12.5V on the brown wire, if so then the exciter wire, which should have a small current flowing in it is not exciting it and needs the revs to get going. If it doesn't, then that alternator is kippered as well.

Japanese most commonly use year, month, day. Looks like you may have a early non interference one then..... Maybe.

Excellent, he will be thrilled to see this

They are reverse light switch and starter lockout, I don't think the 300TDI was an electronic box therefore you don't 'need' any wires hooked up at all.

I shove vaseline in most of the connections on the car and never have a problem. It needs refreshing every now and then as it has a tendency to dribble out in the hotter places, be interested if there is a high temp version of dielectric grease? The sensor itself is waterproof, so you are only trying to protect the pins from corrosion, you can get waterproof JPT plugs, but they are expensive and can be quite good at keeping water in...

The clarify, the black and green aren't joined! That's the firewall grommet.

That looks splendid.

Clearly just simpler to swap the whole engine out.

Whichever way you wish to present it

Maybe yours is bent out of shape

Not unheard of to get faulty master cylinders.... Especially if in a blue box.

Find mwchanical tdc (either piston stop, dial gauge or whatever) mark it on your front pulley against a pointer you will likely have to make and get it running, and with a timing light see where it is. Set advance to 0 degrees in tunerstudio and make sure the mark on your front pulley is on zero and you have your timing set - physically and in your software.

Yes, was a bit of a rushed reply, but essentially as Fridge says, do you know where your physical TDC is?

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