Bowie69

Yes, however that was under SVA regulations, and not IVA. Under SVA it would have needed to comply with MODERN safety standards and airbags etc.... i.e. no way to pass. IVA is less restrictive than IVA in this area.

OK, from their legislations... bear in mind this took a while to get a clear meaning from: So we know what an amatuer built vehicle is legally defined as. More to come...

Cable length adjustment? Carpet jamming the mechanism?

Old jack handles are pretty good for this too I've used trackrods and polybush sleeves as well!

Oi Nige, back your box, and next time use current page links

Oh, and on 'bobtail4x4', they are quoting SVA specifications, which is VERY out of date, 3 years or so, and at that point you couldn't even re-reg a bobtail, it would have to be destroyed -search on here for the bishtail).

Here's a link: http://www.direct.go...hicle/DG_191068 The relevant bit is: That is pretty clear cut if you ask me. BUT, don't be scared about it, it's a bit like an extended MOT test, others have been through this in the forum, and I will be soon, the IVA Inspection Manual is your friend -downloadable from Business Link website.

It is definitely required, will dig up the legislation tomorrow for you. That Ebay add is talking a crock of....

That may be the case for LR products, but Hotwire and 14CUX was used for a long time after that, on TVRs, which IIRC disposed of the tune resistor.

Yep, a couple of sacks of cement help my lightweight loads in the comfort department.

Mine were too, just order new shackles and pins at the same time....

It's normally recommended to have 2 leaves for soft top vehicles, 3 for hard working truck cabs/lots of towing for example, 4 is really for 109s only. But as said above you do get a good variance between manufacturers, and shocks too, you may find cheaper ones with less damping suit your needs better, but it could all get rather expensive if you keep having to swap them out... You can get polybushes for the chassis separately, just took some googling... I replaced mine recently with these: http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/polyurethane-bush-black-britpart-569746py-p-6318.html I know it's sh!tpart, but what's better, a bush that waggles about in the hole now, or one that might waggle in a couple of years or so -it's on a low mileage truck.

Often people find 3-leaf paras on the back of an 88 too hard, what is the body o nit? Truck cab, CSW, hard top? Also, is that a home made spring mount on the rear? To me that doesn't look right, 88's have the mount underneath the chassis, is this a much modified motor or...?

I think FF wants standard parts You'd have to do something with the crank pulley as well, they are pretty short on this engine. FF, one other thing, if you're not running a remote oil filter you may need to... the P38a setup plonks it in a totally different place -I clouted mine with the diff pumpkin before realising I know you are on portals but the same may apply, as IIRC you had the axles in the same place as stock.

Half good news then I seem to remember that to show full on the gauge you needed to short to earth, in which case I would be looking at the wire going from the switch to the sender for chafing/piching etc, there's a lot of panels with sharp edges found here for it to catch on.

No probs

Yep, good plan, the P38a setup is nice and tidy -it's what I run There's also the possibility of sticking a hydro pump or Sanden compressor where the old AC pump went, it's a nice strong chuck of ally

I believe the problem is the timing case is shallower, and won't support/have enough room for a duplex chain. The best you can do is go OEM for timing chain and sprockets, and that of course makes your current cam redundant.... as the timing sprockets are different. Also, if you don't have it, you should have a retaining plate holding the cam if you don't run a dizzy, older style cam shafts do not have the groove in the camshaft end to support this, though many suppliers will do it if asked, and you want to fit a multi-V front end on a serp block. Nige may be along to say the 3.9 serp cover is deeper, but then you still have a hole for the dizzy...

I have this info somewhere... 2 secs... ERR4461, Dayco 7PK1870. This is it

RRCs have this setup inside the stub axle to support the CV joint. They rarely wear here either, but I'm guessing the CV joint is a fair bit harder than plain old mild steel....

Microlaunch, all credit to Retro, who is on this forum http://www.retroanaconda.com/landrover/2009/12/land-rover-microcat-november-2009/

Probably design it in the later half of the century! Seriously though, the petrol is well known that the inlet and exhaust manifolds(and exhaust system actually) are a pretty big restriction, and when doing performance upgrade they are one of the first htings to change. The next is often a compression lift, though granted you can't do that so easily to the diesel... but the final one is to gas flow the heads. I'd be suprised if you didn't manage to get 85BHP out of a 2.25 diesel with all those mods.

I assume this is the 24V FFR trucks, but Series or 90/110? There are major differences between the two, and there are different variants fitted on the series trucks as well. If you have a series, I have proper diagnostic manuals (pretty sure I found them on the HMV forum), and worked a treat for me to in the end find a burnt pin on the alternator.

Just in case people don't realise, it's not a DC100 concept, it's an Evoque http://www.autocar.co.uk/News/NewsArticle/AllCars/261486/

Very nice!