Bowie69

If one A frame bush is worn more then the other, it can rotate the axle left and right...

Chris, I have refitted a torque converter successfully a couple of times with a gearbox in situ, just take your time and make sure the distance from bell housing face to mounting lugs on the converter are as specified -this is more than likely listed in the workshop manual, it certainly is for the V8 where most of them are at 51mm. Assuming it has come out, I refitted by lifting, rotating and gently pushing until it slotted home, it was 3 separate stages before it was home enough. You are basically trying to line up three sets of splines, so do it with that in mind and I am sure it will go back together OK again. If in doubt, pull it off and try again, I did it a couple of times to make sure I was happy, and each time got it to the specified amount, bolted it all up and has been fine ever since... Good luck.

That's the state I am in with my Series box, transfer box is disassembled, haven't yet examined for wear, so looking forward to this write up very much

A-frame bushes on the rear, and radius arm bushes or panhard bushes on the front can give the same.

Still possibly will sort it, though it is a different description to what I thought I had worked out before It may be that the sender is falling off the bottom of the rheostat and shorting, giving a full reading. It is certainly the cheapest option to try and bend it for sure.

As above, bend the arm to adjust it so full = full on the gauge. In certain cases I have pulled the needle off the gauge and reset it's position as it has been out as well...

Hummm, the RRC doesn't have this, which is what the headers and Y are from (it has a chassis mounted errr mount ), so maybe this is the problem?

Hmmm, I found a load of stuff about this including wiring diagrams... hang on a sec... here's a wiring diagram for starters, assuming the lighting circuit similar/the same as the series vehicles (LR carried on using standard wiring colours for years): Clearly you need to be able to read a circuit diagram, if you can't then , as above, leave it well alone! Looks to me it's like this : Plain red is front side lights Red w/Black is tail and number plate lamps Plain purple is lights 'feed' and this is switched between dip and main on the stalk obviously. Brown/Yellow is the main feed to the lighting switch, so take this to your switch. Now the question, why? If the switch is dicky, get a can of contact cleaner from your motor factors, remove the switch, and squirt it into every hole you can find (on the switch!) working it all the time, I need to do this fairly often after the Lightweight has been laid up, but never fails to sort it, and keeps it sorted whilst in regular use. Even replacements can be got for ~ £30 on ebay.

I tend to buy the 6mm x 150mm which means you get nice 6" squares out of it

WELL... I only started cavitating at 5mm (stock is 3.2mm), but bear in mind this is on a P38 PAS pump, not the regular RRC pump, and no idea how it compares to the one DD is running. If you have a spare pump there's no harm in trying, the port unscrews easily enough with a 27mm socket.

Something to divert the fuel flow would be a better option than lagging the exhaust -a small aluminium tray which if leaked into would transfer the fuel somewhere safer just through gravity would be best. Any reason why you think it it going to leak?

Cheers Les, still trying to make time to look at it, bloody work gettin' in the way

Les, don't you think he should buy a new or refurbed one, that doesnt smell of burnt honey toast?

Well, for once I totally understand the hugely difficult job that the people presiding over the green lanes have, and think they are doing a good job actually.

Are you sure your RRC has 24 spline axles? Only the very very late ones had them (1994> softdash IIRC). I take it you have seen the diff end of one of them given the tyres you're running Take a deep breath, for uber-strong LR axles you are looking at a couple of grand... (and then some). Probably best value would be a 4 pin open/LSD pegged front diff with uprated CVs, shafts and drive flanges, then in the back a pegged Ashcroft air locker with matching shafts and flanges. Spilling another £800 on an ARB in the front is probably not worth it, IMHO. Even then you are looking at serious beans.... Ashcroft locker built into a pegged casing.... £900? * Pegged open 4 pin front diff £500? HD Shafts and CVs £1000 Flanges £200 Oils, grease, seals, bearings, stub axles etc £300? Got deep pockets? *Note these are only off the top of my head and only ballpark.

Oil life and a sweeter engine, especially at higher temps, in my experience.

BAH, spent ages trying to think what it smelt like, then forgot to include the word BURNT.

Better ground clearance would be created by running larger tyre more effectively than a suspension lift...

I'm not guaranteeing anything, but from how you have described your tests I fail to see how it can be anything else.

You may be able to see an obvious if you pointed a multimeter at it, but then without knowing what to look for you could just be wasting more time -you have checked the servicable bits, the bearing and the brushes and found no fault, it must be the windings burnt out.

Well you can try electro-cleaning it all, reassemble and refit but it's your time, what's it worth? £20-30 for a known good second hand unit? Would have saved you hours potentially.

Agreed, you also don't show the armature, which may show signs of catching or not. BUT.... if you have tried and tried and tried to start an engine on it, you have given the starter a helluva hard time, and the insulation may well have broken down inside the windings and shorting where you can't see, did the inside of it smell burnt (like a sweet grilled honey on toast kinda smell)? If so it's scrap.

http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/ovality

Have you got fuel at the carbs?

Cheers Tom, Another thing to add to the list