Bowie69

I vented mine quite happily in the orchard, well away from any sources of ignition, I did have no choice though, the solenoid valve had jammed open.

No need to drain it, but you will do yourself an injury, especially as the gas slops from side to side, managed to wrench my own back doing this, but it was only 1/3 full... To drain, leave it somewhere open (no where near any drains), disconnect battery, and undo the outlet of the tank -there's normally either a small tap with a knurled top to it which you can just undo once you have removed the outlet pipe, or you have to remove the solenoid. Vent it SLOWLY, leave for as long as possible

Why not just use plasterboard? Fire rated for 30 mins at 3/8" thick IIRC.

Yep, and I qualified it with the vent not being blocked.

CV's are FAR more expensive, yes. Open one up and take a look at the engineering that goes into one, and then compare it to the simple spider and needle rollers in a UJ.

How many fan heaters have you owned that whilst in use caught fire? Don't see any reason why it would be any different inside a vehicle as long as the vent isn't blocked.

Yeah I said disable it, not unplug Set the duty cycle to a fixed...25 IIRC is closed, and it won't open or close. Tuning closed loop idle can be a PITA, especially on an auto.

Yep I use this quite often, though I tend to have 4mm kicking about most of the time, once it is through I tape securely the wires to it, and pull back, job done The other good one is thos old net curtain rails, nice and springy and very strong, with a hook on the end to make tying the wire to is easy. There are special electricians fibreglass pusher rods available, but never seen the need to use them.

You can disable it in Megatune/Tunerstudio, just turn off closed loop control and leave on warm up only. Or the idle cells are seriously out of whack.

Looks like a CV joint rather than a UJ...

Good plan Si/Nick You could fit a 2KW inverter and run it off the second battery -it wouldn't have to be on for long nor be an expensive inverter, as I doubt a coil of wire needs a perfect sine wave to operate...

Just disable it for the mot, and fix it after the event.

Forget all that and fit a Lexus 1UZ-FE

If you are not hitting 100KPa then it could be that the airbox/filter is restricting things a little, I manage 98/99KPa, but blame that on the snorkel. Of course the other thing is a small variation in the MAP sensor, and not worry about it. As long as you tune to the signals received it should all work OK

Yes 17A is a common size cable for example, so of the circuit is wired with it and you run 20A through it without blowing the fuse, over time you will melt the wire... 15A is close enough to 17A to not cause you any problems, same for 10A and 12A.

Pretty sure you calibrate it to pulses per mile, a magnet and reed switch is all that's required, IIRC. However, a bit of searching found this: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/how-get-instant-fuel-consumption-megasquirt-5474.html No extra hardware required, and makes sense when you think about it, just a bit of jiggery pokery required

Sounds good, sorry I missed that bit from Ian above. That's some good stuff to know and for me to try for off-road too. I seem to remember that there was some way to get an instantaneous MPG from Tunerstudio/Megatune using a compatible vehicle speed sensor somehow, anyone played with this?

Neil, Those figures seem quite a jump, I would be smoothing the edges of the cruise 'box' and not going quite so high. You seem to have a bit of an odd spark map tbh, lots of advance at idle, and not as much as I expected at the top end, I've attached my spark map for comparison. Or is this because you are 4.6? My map for a 4.0 P38 engine, I think derived from Nige's Megajolt tune initally.

Some interesting/useful comparisons here: http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26084 Shows the serp belt p/n.

90A normally.

Drill out the manifold and fit a new stud, much much cheaper than a new manifold.

Fine for carbs and lpg

Sounds like your kickdown cable has become detached to me, it's connected to the same place as the throttle cable. If it has, then you shouldn't really drive it as you will knacker the box very quickly. Sometimes they become detached inside the box, which is quite a bit of work to fix....

I'm guessing it's a rusty boot floor etc, but actually quite good value with all that kit in it.

Range Rover P38 had the compressor the other side! (Passenger)