Bowie69

Sounds good Soren, plus with an auto, the box would just slip a bit to make up the difference I guess Pretty promising if you ask me

Yes it will work fine, they are ATF safe so won't degrade, and the fittings whilst a bit strange, can be got hold of easily.

Stanley knife round the rubber and lift it out.

Very late RRCs, from about 1993/4, later Disco 1's, very late 200TDI Defenders, and 300TDI all models onwards.

Yes it should work fine with no illumination. I suggest the switch is broken, or you have a duff earth on the back of the switch and/or at the lamps.

Pretty sure, as with the old Detroit lockers which work on the same principle IIRC, the reason they are recommended for the rear only is because they can cause steering and handling issues if used up front. Also, Detroits were recommended only for vehicles of over 100" wheelbase due to twitchy handling on anything shorter, it may also be the case here.

I've got a pair here, no wait, they're for a proper engine Sorry, but you asked for it coat, hat, door -gone.

Well,in a bit of a rush, I have swapped over to hydraulic fluid, but due to phone calls etc, not managed to bleed it all out properly yet, but the fluid is now golden coloured, rather than pink/red When flushing, I first flushed the reservoir, by dropping the return hose off, then ran the engine until fluid stopped coming out of the return (a very short time!). Next I topped the reservoir up with HF and ran it up thinking that should do it, then had a thought and realised the box would basically remain full of ATF, so fitted a small hose to the box bleed nippe and opened it up while I topped up the reservoir until it ran clear, plus turned the steering back and forth a couple of times. The stuff in the reservoir is now clear, if a little foamy. I have left it to settle for a while, and will go back and bleed properly shortly. Agreed on the ID of the steel pipe, was been rather dim this morning

There is 2 lambda inputs in MT, so I assume as much.... But as above I would rather run a balance pipe and get a much nicer running engine

Hmmm, now I have woken up a bit more (woke at 4:30, not been to sleep again yet!) I need to check the return line ID, I thought from looking at this: http://www.allisport.com/index.php/products/25-reservoirs/25-land-rover-tdi-v8-aluminium-power-steering-reservoir That the return line was 16mm, it actually makes more sense for it to be 12mm, and the feed to the pump, as it is suction, 16mm -their description is just dodgy if you ask me I am guessing here that 12mm down to 10mm will be no problem at all! Just tighten the clamp down on it Migth get to try the hydraulic oil today, will post when done

OK, well I now have 5 litres of 'VG32' hydraulic oil from my local place -Mayflower Hydraulics in Bridgwater, used them before for hoses for my autobox, very helpful as usual. VG32 is their 'basic' one size fits all fluid, and good for up to 3000PSI, apparently, so should be man enough for this application... They do have VG48 and VG64, which are higher pressure fluids (up to 8000PSI or something) which I decided as they only had it in 25l, was going to be no good for me Not changed it out yet, but I have another question, in preparation If I were to fit a cooler in line (I have failed to find a Rangie bog brush in good nick yet), most PAS cooler kits or autobox kits are just AN10 (10mm ID in my understanding) fittings at maximum, if this was fitted in the return line is it going to cause issues? I know it's very low pressure, but don't want a restriction like this affecting flow to the point it starts changing the way the steering operates Any views on this? Cheers, Pete.

All personal preference really, but I much prefer my auto off road. RRC's should all be auto IMO

That's a very nice use of an old LT230... i'm guessing here, but that could well be rather cheaply when made in bulk, with just the flange adapter and spline adapter...? Can't really see, but is there still room for an X-Brake ?

Time for you to have a word with Nige then, he said it!

IRB do TDV6 and TDV8 conversion IIRC....

If now part of Allmakes, if they don't ruin the product it will be a good thing for the market if you ask me

It will be different, as the bit you currently screw into the drag link to fit to the swan neck adds ~ 20mm to the overall length.

I had nothing to measure, just made sure this was the case and clamped it on. TBH, I think what I did was fitted everything, left the clamp loose, and turned full lock left, this moved the bracket to a good position, I moved it 10mm more and clamped it down, checked full lock right and it hit the stops before I over-extended the damper -job done.

I think you'd be better with the nice MSO2 additives in the swivel grease in all honesty, plus it has good sticky properties to make sure it stays around all the parts of the gearbox, and not drain to the bottom when not in use. Personally though, I have used some spray PTFE white grease, not used it yet (truck off the road atm) but the freespool is lovely

Cheers DD, Will nip down my local farmer place and see what they recommend. I don't think I will need to go to the same extent you have, it is already much improved over stock, and I'm running an adwest quick ratio box. Will report back when I have swapped oil out

Hmmm, I only need to use my propshaft tool to undo those bolts, they don't spin for me (no spanner needed), and I replaced them when I fitted my wide angle props

I run a P38 pump with standard 4-bolt box, and steering is fine, I've even been fiddling with making it lighter.... It might be worth checking the pump outlet to see if someone has been drilling it out, stock it is 3.2mm. *edit* OR, as I think Nige found out, there is a restrictor in the P38 hose, if you are running a hose without a restrictor then maybe this is what is mucking it all up....

I made my own damper bracket, piece of cake really: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=45874 Other people have used 30mm U-bolts and a piece of angle, if you think of the force it needs to transmit it is pretty minimal really, compared to say a major suspension mounting point.

Pretty sure you need a disco one, I know I did when I swapped from swan neck to 300TDI Disco arm on my RRC.

Cheers varsas, old age kicking in again!