Bowie69

Given that a MSnEDIS setup will cost you around £5-600 all-in, plus all the work to fit (that Nige did) means you're looking at about a grand for the engine, which is, if the condition is as you say, a billy bargain. I don't need a power plant (nor would I waste my time on another Rover V8!), but if I was in the market then it would certianly appear an option.

From an ability to dissapate heat, I would have to say yes. 2 x quality shocks and you are laughing

Speed events and continuous used on unmetalled roads. Look good to me

Nomally LPG backfires are either stray HT or lean mixture, or both, so as above for the HT leads and cap/rotor etc, but it seems like you are half way there with that already. And as above, check for air leaks, a can of WD40 or easy start is good for this, spray it all over the bits that you think could possibly leak (and other places too!) and if you hear the engine revs rise as it's getting extra fuel, you have a leak in the vicinity, then go hunting closer. The other thing that no-one has mentioned is the actual setting up of the vapouriser and power valve -it could be that these are just out of adjustment and need resetting whilst attached to an exhaust gas analyser. The other thing that can happen is the filter in the LPG line can become blocked and therefore restrict the gas supply, causing a lean mixture, causing a backfire. The last reason I can suggest, and I only mention it becuase you have had a lot of backfires, is the diaphragm in the vapouriser can split with continued backfires, this is what is used to regulate the LPG flow, which means if split it will throw your mixture all over the place. Inspection and replacement is easy, you just unbolt the back cover and have a look HTH, Pete.

It looks very like the high pressure pump, but plumb it in, if you have the wiper-tubing conversion then you don't have the massive restriction that normal jets have and thus should work fine. If you have the Peugot style wipers then a few minutes with a Dremel opening up the holes would be a good thing to do,just to increase the flow, but I don't see any issues really. Do you need working wipers to get the engine running?

http://www.devon4x4.com/index.php?option=com_phocadownload&view=category&download=60:magnum-tyre-bead-quick-reference-chart&id=16:instructions-how-to&Itemid=36 or http://www.dynabeads.co.uk/auto4x4.php If you need to convert your metric to imperial size....which is (285 * 1.5) / 25.4 + 16 = 32.8" Assuming you are on about the 285/75/16 tyres.

Looks the same as the Rangie headlamp washer pump -the way to solve your dilema is to fit Rangie headlamp washer nozzles to your bonnet -much much better clearing then

Leave them off, and just make sure you get under there with a hose/pressure washer every once in a while..... You are right, they cause the rot in the inner wings where the studs push through.

Drop the idle rpm, that will sort it. This is, after all, what megasquirt is all about.

Sounds like your oil pressure is fine TBH, it's normal for the oil pressure light to come on after you stop drilling, just like when you stall the engine. Though your description is a little vague, so not 100% sure what you were up to

To stop numpties from starting in gear and careering into the car in front or worse, a pedestrian.

Yes, if the window is sticking in its runners (quite common).

Not 'blaming' the H&S people for anything, mentioning that it is actually a good idea, and I can't understand why it should cause a problem on a competition truck.

That or drop down to you local engineering works that has a guillotine, ask nicely and chuck em a tenner and then each one is exactly the right size

What he said, don't undo what the H&S people have put in there -just in this case of course

No, they are normally adjusted up by the throttle butterfly -there will be two cables attached, one is attached to your pedal, the other to the gearbox. 2 13mm nuts secures the one you want to adjust to the bracket. Haynes/other wokshop manuals will say to leave 1mm between the lead pip on the cable inner and the cable out, I find as cables get older 3mm seems about right, and mine revs to 5500 before changing up with my foot mashed to the floor

1.4 boxes are out of later(post 85 I think) 90/110s and Defenders

Forgot to mention that... the kickdown cable adjustment is pretty crucial, HOWEVER, it will still not drive as it was designed to once you have larger tyres on it, getting very confused about when to change up/down, and lockup. The only way to restore the original driving 'feel' is by changing ratios.

OK, as you don't sound too bothered by the ratio change off road (and why would you be, with an auto....), I'd stick with changing the transfer box for a 1.4 ratio item, you can pick them up for around £100 with a known history.

Really need a better idea of why you want to change the ratios... But even so, you have a couple of options... Assuming you have an LT230 transfer box, it's most likely that it is a 1.2 ratio one, in which case swapping to a 1.4 ratio box would restore your on-road gearing, but leave your low-range unaffected (i.e. probabyl slightly too high). Get some high strength ring and pinions from the likes of Ashcroft or KAM and choose your ratio and drop them in, bit spendy though. What exactly is it you are trying to acheive...? The Disco auto box is no different to the Rangie one, ratio wise anyways.

I don't know much about other ABS systems, but both my Audi and my Rangie use a pump (electric/hydraulic in the Rangie, and engine driven on the Audi) to charge a nitrogen sphere which then basiclly acts as the servo, charged to something daft like 2000PSI. On my Rangie, it doesn not have traction control, HOWEVER... I believe I read somewhere that adding TC to a Classic that already has ABS is just a case of swapping the ECU over, so this answers your question about whether the valve block is able to send high pressure fluid down the line to a caliper without relying on the brake pedal effort. Thinking about it, for fiddle brakes you should just be able to find the right wire for the left and right rear caliper solenoids and put a MOM switch to send high pressure fluid down the line -damned sight easier than fiddle brake levers and two sets of calipers, brackets etc..... *EDIT* It got me interested and I googled.... the valve block is slightly different when an RRC has TC..... : 1) PCRV valve moved to below booster unit mounted in inner wing 2) accumulator - has direct feed to ETC valve block. accumulator bleed valve relocated to ETC valve block.

Either that, or you have a small leak at the front-end, or the relay has failed -this last thing is VERY common. The relay is under the passenger seat, replace it now! This is the main cause for the pumps to fail, as they run and run and run.... The only other option is the pressure switch is duff, but I doubt that.

3.9 and 3.5 diffs are exactly the same. Series ring gears are thinner than coiler-based axles, so you would be reducing the strength significantly. Manual or auto?

Very nice! Now waxoyl it!

Yes in that case, blink test it is