Bowie69

I tend to use 1.6mm for the areas you indicate, easy enough to cut with a small grinder and a slitting disc, and can be 'formed' with just a small hammer pretty easily, even better it won't distort so much as if you use 1.0mm stuff. For stuff like body mounts and more structural areas I go up to 2mm, which is still easily formable but much, much stronger.

Sorry I can't help with the part number, but I suggest you remove the last 3 or 6 digits from the chassis number you posted, rather than broadcast it to the few rogue people out there (as this is an open forum). I think you'll need a mod to do the title line though

Drivers side longer? With the stronger/longer spring in the front drivers side, it could cause the front axle to creep under a little shortening the wheelbase...? That's without a driver of course.

3mm steel plate, enough unless you are dropping big diesel engines on it day in and out, assuming you have a wood or some other substrate Oil it with engine oil after fitting, then wipe down with a rag, stops it rusting and infecting components with rust-dust which they won't like.

On the RRC there's a plug along the inside edge of the inner wing, you may find this is the same on the Defender, it's just a small black round two pin plug about 10mm diameter.

Negative! 'Radically altered'. Not to mention the bulkhead outriggers that need adjusting to fit the new bodywork. IVA required.

Gotta admit, that is a whole lot of storage/camping space in one of them.

Good stuff Si, nice to have it in black on pale blue You mean it's IVA time, right? Because I have spoken to VOSA on this specific subject recently, and they were fine about it, just you need an IVA at £450, £150 retest fee.

With that clamp design, I think you will struggle to ensure sliding forces in the rear stays, for example, didn't just allow it to move along the chassis rail. The other thought I had about bolt fixing would be to drill, fit crush tubes and bolt it through the chassis, 6mm plate either side, with the top plate sitting tight to the chassis above it. I suppose a lot of the regs are there so they allow proper inspection of the mounts -it's easy to see a 6mm plate welded to the chassis, and easy to see the 4 M10 8.8 bolts holding it in place, not so easy to define or see how a bolted fitting should look, or whether crush tubes are present and indeed fitted properly.

If you wanted a bolt-on kit, Ashcroft do one which looks pretty effective: http://www.ashcroft-...d&productId=156 Roverdrive do a cooler for the LT230 if you want to go mad: http://lucky8llc.com/Products.aspx?ProductID=3355

Silicon sealant is both fuel and oil safe and not degraded by either.

Ah, well it could well be exactly that Still, it's all fitted now Well, it will be once I find something to bodge fit the air hose better between box and carb, but very pleased with the reduction in noise! Some pics as I promised The thing that made me go for this air box in the end, was the fact it was about 5 inches shorter than the 300TDI Defender and 200TDI Disco air boxes, not sure where to go for a longer hose, the bodginess is strong with this one at the moment.... Thanks for the pointer guys, maybe this will helps someone in the future Pete.

Cheers guys, I took a look at the Defender 300TDI air box, and the Disco 200TDI air box when I got there, but could I find a 200TDI Defender airbox? No So.. I came away with what is supposedly a Range Rover air box(according to a sticker on it), it's not a round 3.9V8 box, or a square soft dash one for sure, but it is round, and has a top exit, side entry, which is what I was after -I think This is coupled to a 90... something base with three legs bolting to the chassis on the near side makes for a pretty compact air box, just need to frig it into position now I had a look in Microcat... the part number RRC4002 comes up as: Air cleaner assembly, all 4 cylinder petrol models to FA375497 ...and also lists asfor the Defender 1987-2006 in Microcat. So I think I have a 2.5 petrol 90 filter assembly Will get a pic up when finished. Ta muchly again

I've had the o-ring leaking on a new Zenith before, I cured it with some silicon sealant around where the ring sits -no problems since, touch wood.

I don't come over here very often, as the LWT doesn't give me much bother, and it's standard so I spend much less time on it than my Rangie A PO decided in their infinite wisdom to remove the oil bath air filter and replace with a K&N which promptly got squashed by the bonnet, this has been on for a while now, but the noise is too much for me in my old age, and want to stick a 'proper' filter on it. Being an FFR the air box is not mounted on the battery tray, but to the left of the radiator right up against the inner wing and grille panel. I still have the brackets attached to the chassis for the oil bath style filter, but frankly I don't want to be messing around with expensive oil and expensive petrol, and making a mess on the drive every service, so want to try and get a later paper-elemented air box in there instead, which should of course keep the noise level down a bit. So has anyone been there with a series already? I will be heading to the scrappy tomorrow anyways to see what they have kicking around, but would be great to know if say a 2.5 Petrol 90 air box fitted up with the original carb elbow and hose. I need to pick up the carb elbow and hose at the same time, anything else worth getting? (Standard 2.25 with a Zenith carb on it.... and a K&N plonked on top:() Thanks, Pete.

Oh, well in that case so have I, an EFI harness is going to be the engine loom in my book... for the binnacle stuff I will have to look again...

If going MS2 and driving the original LR stepper motor for the idle valve, then the connector is a bit of an oddity, so to get a matching loom is a good idea in that respect, I do agree it seems a shame to chop up a brand new loom when any second hand one will do fine, and cost about £20 from a scrappy

PRC8587 then.... well that's for a Range Rover Classic, based on my vehicle, SALLHAMM3HA6xxxxx

Other thing I meant to say was... with some re-plumbing of hoses you can do away with the silly spherical stat (replace with a T-piece with two large and one small outlet) and fit a 'normal' stat in the inlet manifold of even the very late Serp V8s, then you have a greater choice of temperatures.

Is this the sender for the EFI or the gauge? If for the EFI then it's a normal mini-timer connector. If for the gauge, isn't it just a peg, with serrations along it? Seems a normal bullet connection may do the job: http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/31/category/6

So which engine are you trying to hook up? Flapper, Hotwire, Gems, Bosch? (I think that's the 4 options...)

Of course not, but then the engine should never get up to 105C unless it is working EXTREMELY hard on the road, these temps are far more likely manouvering trailers or sustained off road, where the fans will come into their own. With adequate airflow (i.e. 40mph+) if you are getting to 105C (and running an 83/88C stat) there is something wrong with your radiator/cooling system!

TempestV8, your theory is sound if you run a standard cooling system (viscous fan and normal radiator). I f you run temperature controlled electric, or a 'cooler' vicous fan (if indeed one exists) then you will run at the temperatures that the fan switches on and off, or locks up and unlocks in the case of the viscous unit.

Do you not have to shorten the radiator mounts when fitting a Disco radiator in a 90? Pretty sure it is covered in the Tech Archive on here....

Yes, you have nailed the understanding of engine cooling now I run twin electric and switch with Megasquirt, so not a worry for me (TBH I doubt I could fit a viscous to my P38 unit anyways )