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The Decibel scale is exponential, so 30% is easily reached... I believe that it should be about 3 or 4 dB quieter to attain that 30% Either that or the teste was deaf from driving Defenders in a previousl lifetime...

Probably time for a new speed sensor... There was a post on here recently with part numbers and all. As I am typing one-fingered (plaster cast-) I cannot be bothered to search for you...

And check the flexi hose... It could be that this one is expanding too much as well.

When I did some serious road travel I went with my Dutch AA card to the AAA in California. Got all the maps I needed, and for FREE... Mind you, these are not to OS specs. Mostly roads, some trails (Like death valley and yosemite) I am pretty sure they would do the same if you flash your AA or RAC card at them. And it only works when you are already in the States, as they will not send you any maps beforehand.

Tubes and removable mounts are a No-No on most non-UK MoT. But on a early 110 I could 'get away' with the fact that this would have been a 'proto-type', hence the fully connected mounts...

I am planning to buy an early type 110 CSW RHD for a project (Complete rebuild, and from RHD to LHD and later from V8 to 300Tdi/2.8 TGV) I have seen that the V8s in the UK are plenty and reasonably priced, but due to age and the conversion to LHD I am planning a complete rebuild onto a new chassis. As I also plan to use the vehicle overland in South America, I was wondering whether it would be possible to order a galvanised chassis with both the V8 and 300Tdi chassis mounts in place already. Main question would be whether the V8 mount position would foul anything once the 300Tdi is in and vice versa. I would like prevent having to re-galvanise the chassis after a conversion. Anything else I should take into account while I am at it?

Put the car on chassis stands and chocks, take the wheel off, stick your head under the wheelarch. You will see that there is a row of bolts that can be undone, just shy foo the side panel. They can be a [britney Spears on PMS] to undo as the area they 'live' in is a perfect 'cr@p-trap'... Good luck

I do not believe that there is waterproof grease. All grease shold come without water... But to be a bit more serious, water you keep out by regularly checking the condition of the seals, and making sure that the breather on your axle is not clogged. Its the seals that keep the water out. For lubrication, the discussion is what you are doing with the vehicle. One-shot grease is easy, but the swivels are a b1tch to clean if contaminated. EP is easier as it is much more liquid, but would need good seals to keep the EP in and the water out.

Check the pinion bearing. I had a similar issue, utterly annoying. Be aware that if you've had this for a long time, the pinion bearing 'house' might have gone oval, thus calling for a new diff 'nose'.

Seeing that most people looking for an upgrade from 2.5 NA/TD or 200TDi to 300TDi you'd need to change the psoition of the mounts as otherwise the engine would sit too far back, I'd say that a 300 chassis would suit a 300TDi only.

What are you going to use the Overdrive for? Cruising or splitting gears? I guess you'll have to see what use you're giving it, as I believe that an OD behind a 230 would stand relative high levels of abuse...

I am planning to build up my 110 again, a bit 'from scratch'. To keep things in or under budget, I was wondering whether I could use the body off a 109, the axles of a Disco I/II or RRC, etc... The papers and chassis I have are from a 1984 110 Hardtop diesel, but I want to go stawagand a more powerful diesel Early 110s had a selectable 4x4 setup,which I might want to re-install. How would I do this? Alternative would be to buy a pre-1965 109 stawag, coil-spring the chassis, and dunk in a 300Tdi or TD5. (Can I keep the grill mounted lights?) Any thoughts on this?

Time for all of us to start our own mobile museum then... The state some Land Rovers are in, they can be the local equivalent of the Museum of Natural History... Hat, Coat, Museum Ticket Door...

And a big thanks to the replies... Will tell my van-man that he'll soon be driving the Moon across the border...

Ahhh, thanks for the replies, but the only question, basically the main question, has not been answered, and I am still looking for that piece of info... What do the parts weigh ? 300TDi engine R380 Gearbox LT230 TBox Plus some other parts... (Handbrake will probably not make it as this will become an X-eng item anyway) The van transporting the engine has its limitations, and based on the weight, the assembly will need to be 'broken'...

I am planning to have a 300 tdi with an 'R' gearbox and LT230 T-box shipped over. As the combo is still in the vehicle, the owner asked how I wanted it shipped. I can choose between all in one, split, or very split, depending on weight. (kilogramms please...) So, what does it weigh? - A full combo as described above? - The engine, the gearbox and the transferbox all separate - The gearbox and the transferbox apart, and the engine in parts as well (Head off, short engine, ancilliaries...) I'd prefer no split at all, but I will have weight and space restrictions. And while I am at it, which other parts should I ask for once the owner is gutting the engine bay? Thanks...

Weren't the first of the 110's built with a selectionable 4x4, a-la-Series III?

Or try www.lpi.be. They'll send out parts troughout Europe withreasonable prices...

TD4 as in 4 cylinder... Not as in Freelander TD4 engine! But knowing the average competency level of dealers nowadayd, they'll probably forget to mention that...

OK, I am sure I will not have a drill at hand... Bugger all... I believe AA it is then!

OK, my keys kept falling out of the ignition, so this morning while driving to the airport I just rammed the key in and started the Defender. At the airport I switched off the car, but in the process I broke off the top part of the key. Part of it is still in the ignition. I have already tried again to start with the remaining part of the key, but to no avail. I have no tools in the vehicle, other than the odd screwdriver. As I will not be back with the vehicle until this Friday late (22:00, and mucho £££££ for the AA call out charge) I was wondering whether I could order a new ignition unit at a local French stealer and unplug the old unit and plug in the new one? Or do I call the AA and make an appointment? (Remember I have limited tools...) Or hot wire it until back home? (I do have the papers, etc, so if I am stopped, I can prove I am the owner...) Mine is a 90Td from 1988... (Just in case anyone has a part number...)

One city in Holland tried doing this and were repelled by a savvy lawyer (and 4x4 owner) who stated that this would be infringing the freedom of expression, or the freedom of choice, or discrimination against a specific group of the population (Multiple choice here!!!) The arguments brought forward usually coming from the Greens that 4x4's pollute more are based on absolute figures, not in relation with other vehicle types (Motor bikes or 'these diesel running two seater vehicles that one can drive without a B-license) or that 4x4s take up more space (A Chrysler Voyager has a larger 'footprint' than a 110, a VW Passat has a larger footprint than a 90, etc... Any case in court brought against this will be won. Nevertheless, good luck for the fight for a good cause...

You'd need a cherry picker to get to that roof tent, no?

Land Rover will probably say that a trailer attachment should never be directly through the cross member, but via an approver tow hitch set up as pictured above. For the Wolves they strenghtened the chassis considerably...

Have a chat with these guys in Belgium. They reworked their D3 beautifully, and should be able to tell you all about raised suspension. Although the site is in French, you'll have a telephone number there and can call them. They do speak perfect English... Geoland in Belgium Some pics: