Mr Noisy

On that subject, I am specifically keen to keep my disco roof at the same height as a stock defender for lane clearance This means 3" lift and 33" tyres for me, but I can sneak down lanes where many more aggressive looking discos fail.

No such thing as hardcore green laning, and if there is, don't tell anyone about it.

Poor chap

Yeah I doubt there'd be any trouble having slightly extra in there As above, I'm running 280g front and 170g rear

Nope, approx 1mm They are in theory able to be fitted through a tyre valve with the core removed but in practice they jam The are almost fluid like they are so small As such I imagine they balance very well

The welding thing is believable and cross hatching or similar on a carrier pin is not uncommon, saw a nice example the other day but can't remember for the life of me where. But I think the problem generally is the plain simple torque load through the single pin, it simply gets snapped because the diff cage wants to turn and the sun gear/gears don't...

Oh and don't bother trying to get them through the valve I had hella trouble, was easier to pop the beads and chuck them in I know that American car dudes are in the practice of simply chucking a handful of metal BBs in the tyres, no measuring Regards tyre wear etc, no problems, do get plenty of ceramic dust in the inside of the tyre but no abrasion etc Cheers

Hi guys I have dynabeads, the proper ones About 80 quids worth! Have had them in 3 sets of tyres now I think, they're so expensive I can't afford to lose any so it's a bit of a faff scooping them out and transferring them etc BUT they do work Started with 33x12.5x15 MTs which were smooth anyway, balance weights lasted 5 mins off road so looked for another option, I was advised 8oz per wheel Fitted, happy days I'm on -50mm offset rims also so they are very prone to death wobble, as such balancing is important. Now have 33x13.5x15 pitbull rocker which are an absolute dog on the road (no pun intended) When I first fitted them I tried them without beads, OMG couldn't get above 20mph without bad death wobble! So decided to separate my beads into 10oz for front wheels and 6oz for rears Now I can cruise right up to the max speed rating of the tyres (85mph) in vibration free comfort Ok the tyres are noisy as hell and death wobble occasionally but on the motorway they're reasonably good Long story short beads do work Some tech: These dynabeads are apparently the larger version for 4x4s etc and are around 1mm diameter Bikes use them a lot according to the man but they spec a smaller bead To put in perspective, 10oz of beads fills a regular aerosol cap, ie a cap from a 500ml aerosol, around 50mm diameter, 50mm tall I know from my paint spraying that a 500ml aerosol cap holds 125ml thinners (handy mixing cups) so 10oz is approx 125ml of beads Hopefully some of that info will be helpful

Couldn't tell you cos I think the disco setup has the arm placed differently, need a tratter owner to confirm for you, or Simon!

...that will never get finished...

Hi Steve

Looking forward to it! Friend on LZ has just picked up a new rear D80 for his, urm, supercharged big block series 2 build

Don't forget air starvation, collapsing rubber hoses. Easy one

The rubber tunnel gaitor thingy is almost unobtanium over here too. It's not produced anymore, most breakers cut it out (person I'm not that keen on) and many in regular use are in disrepair Just sayin'

^^^ sounds fair If you're too scared to phone or it's not urgent enough then it can wait

They do, because not only do they need LOTS of fuel, they need to stop it getting blown back down the fuel rail Although, many OEM pumps are capable of good pressure and flow, most of which is delivered back to the tank via the return at all times.

Is just like to see what I am letting myself in for, and how well supported the entry levels are Not much point if 33" is going to see me snapping winch ropes all day, and upgrading the vehicle for the sake of improving my performance is something I wish to steer very clear of, been there before with 1:10 scale RC racers and 1:1 scale track cars and it gets too expensive too quick!

Hugely valid point and if I have no luck with chrome balls it will be my only sensible next option.

Honestly no! Moreover, you've got a front axle casing and knuckles that look like they belong on an earthmover, yet you still use stock swivel balls, and with those tyres I thought you may have had problems! I have now sourced and fitted original LR chrome balls and am hoping for no further problems!

Is it spectator friendly? Is one allowed to spectate? Is there anything to see?! I'm kinda on the fence about 4x4 competition, my vehicle is built to a good standard these days and is ever improving but I'm not sure if I want to compete with it, at any level! Having a look to see what the deal is would be nice, having never attended any 4x4 competition, I feel it may help

Trying not to digress too much, but does this mean anything to you Zim? Happened to me twice now, Bill is well involved in the discussion already, just wondering if you have any experiences to share, please?

How different is the series brake to the LT230 brake? In my experience the latest incarnation of brake from say a 300 disco where the cable enters the backing plate directly is trouble free enough for most people Maybe starting with a brake designed for 2.5tons minimum and 3.54 diffs would be a good option, plus very very cheap to obtain, as long as it is adaptable it might do your job.

Too risky and tbh unnecessary complication to allow the motor to oil itself, better emissions yes as lowers oiling on tickover but premixed fuel is the regular 2 stroke way and it works just fine!

This jet ski is already Efi but the system has gone crazy and cannot be economically repaired, and micro squirt is being looked at as a sensible, simplified and tuneable replacement. As far as i know it currently injects fuel only into the crankcase via 2 injectors and oils itself separately, although it would have the oil system removed and be premix which is a common mod. We were working on the basis it might not be too tough to convert an already Efi motor...

Was a well sorted machine if a little bit of a rough looker, had force9 axle up front, first one I've seen in person, was, urm, HEAVY duty!