DC_

This is a bit of an eye opener, I think I'm going to save my pennies for the good stuff and spend my time prepping the chassis etc for the application. I'm seeing treatments of waxoyl for £400 ish.... If it's done right, this stuff will cost me nearer the £200 for the paints alone. But protected for a lot longer.

Aye the front of the landy will be ok with the designer drips...... I'll make sure I get a good primer. The job of prepping the chassis first. Might do it in wee sections. Any suggestions for a zinc based primer that's not £115 a tin

Having looked at the price of it it's out of the running, £115 for 5 litres !!! I'm reading a lot about TETROSYL chassis paint too, I'm thinking of prepping the chassis (Good rub down and sand) primer on (red zinc base) then TETROSYL over that. Will take me a while to so but reading up it seems the best way to do it. I'm not a fan of waxoyl anymore. That POR15 I'll have a read up on.

Thought I'd ask in here rather than the military forum (no offence) Ok having previously under sealed my last landy in waxoyl, I want to know if there is a better way? I'm thinking down the line of, after rubbing down the chassis to prime it with oxide paint? Then Hammerite? I know the waxoyl is a creeping agent but after the last landy, it was a bit of a pain working on certain things as you also got covered in waxoyl again and again..... And again.....and So what's your opinion?

Just back from a trip in Scotland. Starting really at Glencoe but the drive past Loch Lomond was also good. Glencoe - fort william - arisaig - sand of morar - spean bridge - Caledonian canal - newtonmore - - laggan - fort william - Glencoe and homeward bound..... http://s9.photobucket.com/user/C11CHA/library/Scottish%20Expedition%202016

Hehe guid yin Mo

Kevm after I cleaned the shaft with 240 sand paper (finest I had) little copperslip on it, the damper slid on a treat. Just marked where the key was on the dust seal and lined it up. Good luck with doing yours ! Thanks peaklander, I'm the one in the family with the patients apparently

Hard to say as we can't see the whole thing, C'mon Tom get those pictures up.

Not sure if it's the same as this one of mine Tom? As you can see the bottom left bolt secures to the block, there's a spacer in that bolt though, it's not on the wrong side of the bolt is it? That would cause your alt to be at an angle. The top bolt in the pick as you probably know is the tension adjuster. There's a third bolt bottom right. It goes right through the alt to a threaded "sleeve" which doesn't me to be anything more than 30Nm I would say. Hope this helps.

Yes it's celebrations but sad the saga is over !! I'm sure there will be plenty more in the up and coming hours, eh I mean years...... Can't thank you guys enough for keeping our spirits high and ideas coming. If this helps someone in the future it's well worth all the effort..... I'd like to thank my friends and family for standing by me....... Hahaha... Sorry couldn't resist !! I actually really like this engine and my New addition (end of June) as it really is solely for enjoyment. No rush to go anywhere just take our time and hopefully have great memories. We are heading out on Monday to Glencoe in Scotland and hopefully further north during the week. First expedition....... Wish us luck !!

I'm sure that day will come Vulan

Well here is the latest update to the "crank pulley saga"....

Was Gona say MAF but you said you checked that. Have you got a replacement MAF to try or borrow? Sounds like it's hunting, (rev counter dancing to it's fav tune) Once every now again sounds to me like there's a sensor on its way out? Wonder if it could be the MAF or a leak (air).... faulty penometer? Or idler at the back of the plenum chamber? If you can borrow them from someone to see if it makes a difference.

I do now....

Got a box of jubilee clips ready to be put to good use. Pipe ordered. Pump ordered. Need to relax today as my legs and knees are about shot ! Thanks western, I found this too which was useful https://www.landroverworkshop.com/diagrams/engine/2.5-na-naturally-aspirated/water-pump_53087

Got it ! ERC5654 for the small connector hose. Other pipes look ok and will get a good clean.

Stephen do you know the part number for these pipes? I wanted to change too but with everything going on keep forgetting. If not too expensive I can put them in with my pump order and make it look even better.

BINGO !! Get that man a packet of roast beef and mustard ! Yep the water pump sent was non viscous and luckily (taking a positive from it) we noticed before we put everything back together. It was going to be a bit of drilling here, a bigger belt there. Then we paused and thought, "where does the fan connect to?" New correct water pump ordered but won't be here til Tuesday which is a bummer!!

I'll give it to 12pm and let you know if no one gets a BINGO!! (Need some sort of cliff hanger,it's been a while)

With tierd and weary limbs, it's still not finished..... What a soul destroying moment (but only because we were so close to finishing) Who can tell me what's wrong with this picture?

All ready for tomorrow nice and shiny....

This is how it's looking currently.... I'm planning on going back to Hreen. Haven't decided NATO green or bronze green. I've irdered a hazard warning switch so I'll look into what connectors I have dangling down. The dash was removed to weld the floor but hasn't been put back on. So I may find I'm a couple of switches short of a full set !

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222170066471 Is the kit I got with a dayco belt in it. The tensioner is in there too along with a dust seal for the front cover. I'd make sure your pulley is the right one though, get pics up. The mates is different from mine, we're having to adjust the holes for the bolts as they don't line up 100%..... The water pump has a square type fitment on the new water pump and mines has a round fitment. Always get what you can afford, but try your very best to get Genuine quality

Thanks Stephen, I'll have a read later when I get in.... Kev, this is my fan, viscous coupling in the centre

The timing pin looks like it goes in at the back of the engine, right swine to get into unless there's another? I'm sticking to belt and braces, RTV and gasket, don't mind taking my time scraping it off with a cold beer to keep me company one sunny weekend hopefully well into the future ! How easy/hard is it to knock the sprockets out of place once the belt is off if you don't have a pin in? weighing up the job to get that timing sprocket off for the oil seal, I'm swaying towards leaving it. Then it's hopefully off on our first adventure in them......