Ash.Witty

I read a little bit into this for when I was building my 110. If you convert leafs to coils, you're altering the chassis and axles by adding brackets, tabs and various other bits to allow the fitment of the radius arms etc. that's altering the chassis/suspension system. Fitting HD coils to a coiler or parabolics to a leafer is a modification but you're not actually straying away from the original land Rover design. So you would keep your points and retain its original I.d.

I had a 4.2efi lse v8 in my 110, it would get to 94' stat open and stay at 89' all day long even when thrashing the loving daylights out of it. I had a twin speed kenlowe which stopped functioning but the best fans I used were P38 air con fans, about £40 and were top notch. Just a though, have you fit the universal Chinese fans? If so, make sure the fan blades are the correct way round for which side of the rad it's mounted to as it might not be working efficiently and thus not drawing or pushing enough air through the core.

easy way, lock the cdl and turn the prop flanges. a 1.6 will turn the input gear once for every 16 turns and a 1.4 will turn the input gear once for every 14 turns

Think its 300Tdi onwards front axles, part number 23. I remember the pressing the flatter face in first, and the recessed side is facing the needle rollers.

I had a 300tdi 110 that I converted to v8, gearbox stayed in the same pace and my mounts are in exactly the same pace as yours. I'm thinking you need a different set of gearbox mounts/crossmember to move it backwards,

Top job Mikey, that will be an awesome company to work for

I used a slitting disk on a grinder to cut the grub screw section out, then dressed back to the spindle with a flapper wheel, then simply pulled off. 10mins work and one newspaper to cover bodywork.

I had an Allmakes one, no problem at all.

When I modified mine, RRC to suit 110 thank, I measured the depth of the tank and the height of the fuel pump. Worked out the difference and fitted a slightly longer section of injector hose to the pump and altered the screw positions of the actual pump. Its easy to work out once you have a pump in front of you. Same bolt pattern as the tank return pipe as well, also pull out the old Tdi pick up pipe and cut the pipe down otherwise the pump strainer will not sit in the very bottom of the tank.

They were bolting it straight to the inlet manifold with and adapter plate, not enough space between the blower and manifold to allow a decent air flow to all cylinders.

Yes, I occasionally trundle through Disley in the 110, slightly different sounding to most Land Rovers

Possibly RPI or V8Developments, it was an eBay listing years ago and I took the last kit... Unfortunately I never got the chance to run it, I bought it when I was a 19 thinking 300Bhp+ would be nice. My insurance company had quite the opposite thought, so I shelved it. Although a year later they changed their minds and I fit a cosworth T34 turbo instead.

I did my conversion on the cheap in terms of the gearbox, here's what I did.... 300Tdi R380 defender box, R380 V8 bellhousing, Td5 clutch release setup as it is identilcle to the v8 gear just superceeded part numbers and a V8 slave cylinder. Then had a v8 spigot bush bored out to 7/8" to suit the Tdi input shaft. I drove it just over 20,000 miles like this absolutely no problem, the spigot bush ends up being about 1.5mm thick but I measured it for wear when I pulled the lot out to do the Cummins swap and it was absolutely spot on.

I purchased it from a v8 tuning company who had 10 of these kits, new old stock about four years ago. It was originally fitted to the De-stroked rover v8 powered TVR's which were 2.0L for the Italian market. They utilised an Eaton M90 supercharger (suits up to 5.7L engines) and had it underdriven as it flowed enough air for the 2.0Lversion. This kit is essentially the same as what I had intended to fit on my 4.2 v8 in my 110 but you can see it has a bypass valve between the supercharger and throttle body, my kit didn't have this modification.

I had a TVR supercharging kit, unfortunately sold it but sat over the starter motor side rocker cover. All the throttle gear was a direct swap from the original plenum throttle body.

That's exactly how it's done, vary the size of the pulley to limit boost. The dump valves are only put in place to prevent damage to the throttle assembly if the supercharger is fitted upstream. If you rearrange the inlet system so the throttle is fitted before the supercharger this isn't required.

Keep it efi, do as need4speed says as that's how I did mine... 300Tdi to 4.2 efi Rv8. RR efi fuel pump will fit into the 110 but will need lengthening a tad. Nice easy conversion, I drove 80 miles to my works workshop, installed it all in 3 days and drove home on the fourth no problems and I was an 18 year old apprentice... The only thing that spoilt it was, I was an apprentice and v8's love petrol and most of my wages went on feeding the beast which stopped 2 years ago when I put a bigger, more powerful and economic diesel in

Did you order 2 piece or single piece doors?

I ordered the exact same stuff Arrived, and have to say they look excellent! Still got to build up my 109 ambulance before being able to test fit but all looks good so far. Also get the window top studs as well.

Check the battery terminals are tight and where they connect to at the other end.

The studs either come as a 20 pack for a 4.0/4.6 and 28 pack for earlier engines. Physically the same studs in both kits.

There is no difference between the 3.5, 3.9 and 4.2 kit vs. the 4.0 and 4.6 other than an extra set of studs to do the outer row on the early engines.

I put a set on my 4.2 using 4 studs per cylinder like the 4.0/4.6 and I torqued to the same specs as the non stretch bolts. Reason being they don't stretch so if they were to be angle torqued you would end up with a rediculess torque figure and possibly pull the threads out of the block. Also the moly lube build past allows the nut turn more and give a higher torque figure than building dry due to having less resistance on the threads and nut base. 70 ft lbs seems to be about right and what I torqued mine up to. http://www.v8forum.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=9647&sid=583f2c8f70f2659442da9cd2df201151

Double check the timing, if the engine is fine and making boost, the pump is on factory settings maybe the timing is slightly out. Possibly a tooth or on fine adjustment, not sure how much loss of power you'd expect being a tooth out maybe even running like a bag of nails. 20 minutes, baring the engine and fitting the timing pins will establish quickly whether something is amiss.

Well, cut a long story short the chassis is in superb condition... I thought all the military under seal was hiding some nasty problems but actually quite the opposite The body will remain in position for now