Ash.Witty

I acquired late last year a pair of low mileage ARB lockers for my Salisbury axles, they are in good working order but I'm wondering if there is any advantage fitting either one in the front or rear axle. Now the front axle, I don't have enough clearance above the diff to have the fitting in the normal place but I plan on using a bulkhead compression fitting and having it exiting the diff cover. Anyone see a potential problem with this? The only reason I mention the above is that the sump has only 1/2" of clearance on the extended bump stops and I don't want the fitting to come into contact with it. Are there any mechanical/pneumatic advantages of either unit? Also after info on shimming the RD20 as I have an RD161 installation manual but not one for the earlier unit.

Is the chassis harness earth tag fitted to the drivers side on transfer box?

Why not upgrade to a larger capacity v8 like a 3.9,4.0,4.2or 4.6. More power and torque which means it doesn't need to be pushed as hard to make the same power as from a smaller engine. I converted my 110 from 300Tdi to a 4.2V8 as told anything under 3.9 is a little underpowered, my average mpg was 8-14.and went really well and was great off road on tick over also went even better with the turbo on but mpg went to 6-10 and i couldn't be bothered anymore. I also ran a 4.6 P38 last summer on petrol and I averaged 22 mpg on a 120 mile run, which was more than a mates 3.5 v8 110 on lpg which averaged the 19mpg on the same run.

About 19 seconds in, Don't think it's driven in the video.

There is one at the Anson Engine Museum in Poynton, they have an engine driven workshop build in progress, pretty sure it's the same as that from memory.

The intake charge should be about 14psi standard, mine blew off from the turbo but were silicone hoses which are incredibly slippy when oily. The wastegate regulates the boost pressure by limiting the exhaust gasses travelling through the turbine and dumping the excess out of a separate port into the exhaust, this controls the speed of the internals to keep a constant level of boost.

No, the stem seals can be changed in situ but you will need to make a valve spring compressor tool to attatch to the head. You will have to remove the rocker shaft, push rods and valve stem caps. Bar the engine until a pair of cylinders (centre pair or outer pair) are at T.D.C. Using the tool compress the spring, remove collets and retainer (Stuff some paper towel in the push rod holes to prevent anything falling inside the engine) Using pliers remove the seal and replace with new. There is a possibility it might not have blown off, it could just be worn out, worth doing as it isn't very expensive to try and rectify the problem.

Sounds very likely to be the stem seals, Is it running standard boost? One of mine popped off possibly due to running 20PSI of boost a while back and had the same symptoms.

That is the top bolt which attatches the panhard rod bracket to the chassis.

I was looking at this setup yesterday. Made by Superior Engineering of Austrailia. http://www.superiorengineering.com.au/product_info.php?cPath=1723_3124_1727_2203&products_id=21543 http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/158446-superior-engineering-superflex-arms-rovers.html

The 200Tdi doesn't have E.G.R. so shouldn't have the crud like the 300's in the manifold. Where are you getting the pressure reading from, manifold or turbo side? Are you using silicone hoses? as they blow off easily if the is a film of oil on them, they have to be fully degreased. Have you change the air filter like for like? In what way has the exhaust been repaired?

My mates was injector seals, whole system would bleed back to the tank overnight then it would crank and crank until it spluttered into life, was worse when hot though.

cool, any chance of the item number?

I have seen them fitted and also think a standard defender tub might be the correct width but as I don't own the trailer, just modifying it i have to stick to the budget set. If it was my own I would be more than willing to shell out for a few nice bits n bobs but really need to keep the sankey tub, to keep costs down.

I'm in the process of working out how to increase the capacity of my Land Rover clubs trailer, its a wide track sankey on drums and in quite good condition. I want to make a top to suit the existing tub but I have a small budget of £200-250 to spend on materials, parts and paint. It needs to be waterproof, fairly secure-locking lower and upper tailgate or door. Look decent not like some hacked together bodge job. It is to be used as a camping/parts and tools trailer whilst on weekend laning trips or pay n plays. I have measured a Defender 110 van back sides and roof will be long enough, but the sides will have to be angled slightly steeper to account for the Sankeys wider tub and the end corners removed and replaced with a single sheet of aluminium cut to suit the profile of the roof, sloping sides, and at one end either a door or upper tailgate. The roof is long enough to fit with the flat section and sloped front removed, but I'm uncertain how it will look with flat ends. Any ideas or thoughts would be greatly appreciated

Most likely it'll be axle oil or grease from the wheel bearings passing the inner hub seal. In order to change the seal, the wheel, brake caliper, half shaft, and hub will have to be removed. You will need a a 1/2" or 13mm 12 point socket, 17,27 and a box spanner or 52mm socket. You will have to set the wheel bearing preload once its nailed back together. It's all covered in the Defender Haynes manual.

I snapped the rubber bushes on my v8 110, I eventually made some new chassis mounts utilising the nice P38 V8 engine mounts to sit my 500kg cummins on, they seem to be working well taking the weight so shouldn't be a problem for the lightweight v8 and absorb the vibes off the six pot diesel very well.

There is a lot more work involved in changing the head gasket on a Td5, get a Haynes manual that covers Td5's. The timing chain needs to be secured so that it doesn't drop off the lower timing gear, it has a gold link on the chain and the engine should be barred until the mark aligns with the timing mark on the top gear to make sure when rebuilt its in the right location, it will take a few rotations of the engine for the mark and link to line up again as its a long chain, unlike a Tdi where its every two revolutions. Spend time undoing the head in the correct sequence and check for flatness with a straight edge once removed, if its not overheated and removed correctly it shouldn't need skimming, my dads was in spec when I changed his 5 years ago and it's still going strong today. The head bolts will need to be changed as they are stretch type, long and thin and for £30 could save yourself a lot of hassle rather than snapping one in the block. If the cam and injectors are to be left in use an engine crane to lift off as they are incredibly heavy built up.

Did you flush the radiator when doing the rebuild? Are you running a heater?

If it still pulls strong I'd leave it in or rebuild it. I have seen a 300Tdi D2 converted from a Td5 to go on an overland trip, sure it just utilised everything from a 300Tdi disco.

Yes it breaks the earth when oil pressure is made and will turn the light off. Try the wire to a good known earth to make sure the light works and test the pressure switch to an earth with a multimeter to check for continuity.

Looks pretty normal, have you checked the A frame ball joint and all the suspension bushes? The A frame ball joint will make a good clunk if its knackard with a lot of play.

Have you fit a new master or slave cylinder or pushrod? I had a problem recently where I hadn't correctly adjusted the clutch master so the pushrod had 1-2mm clearance from its piston, this meant as the pushrod was still in contact with the piston it wouldn't operate the internal valving and allow the oil to flow back to the reservoir. It kept slight pressure on the release bearing and clutch forks and if giving it some lead foot it would slip badly.

I think the point of the vacuum (negative tank pressure) is to reduce the amount of oxygen in the fuel tank, with only highly concentrated fuel vapours this will mean much less chance of ignition due to fuel pump problems etc. Don't know if that is a load of rubbish but sure I've heard it somewhere before, my efi v8 didn't have a charcoal canister so not entirely sure what its purpose is.

Mine was propshaft uj's, but I'd jack a wheel up and rock the wheel back and forth whilst watching for play in the joints and might be able to diagnose it precisely.