Snagger

I remember seeing the results of people doing this on another forum and it was both cheap and effective, apparently. I have acoustic matting throughout my tub and foot wells, but still hear the spray quite loudly, so it's something I may do too. It has the added benefit of reducing stone chip and road salt damage.

Given the state of the stuff on the parts stands at the shows, and their prices, I don't think it'd make the slightest difference. I wonder how much of that stock shows up markings under UV lights...

Heavy grease or copper grease would be perfect for the job. Make sure you fit a reinforced fork (plate welded over the back of the pivot).

I would use aluminium plate and angle. You can get 2mm thickness aluminium angle at Homebase amongst other places.

You don't need to make the swap - there is no significant loss of strength having a turn or two of thread not engaged, and this was left as is on the MoD 90 and 110 fleet refurbishments when fit with HD wheels. It also happens when people use after market 8-spoke or modular wheels.

It's a very commonly spread myth. The main shafts an gears are almost identical, and all the bearings and bushes are identical. The SIII lay shaft is a single piece with radiused section changes, while the II/IIA shaft is splined with added gear wheels and has sharp sectional changes that concentrate stresses. That is why that shaft is so much weaker than the SIII type. Some claim that early SIII boxes have weak 1st/2nd synchro units. That is possible, but I see little difference between them and the later versions so I suspect this to be another myth. Ultimately, a worn out box with infrequent servicing and aggressive driving is going to suffer, while a unit in good order, well maintained and sympathetically driven will cope with little trouble.

Only on the face of it, though. A couple of bits are a pain, like getting the clip off the main shaft third gear, but it's simpler than it looks. R380s look a little daunting to me, but I know it's fundamentally the same. A SIII gear box is stronger than the SII type, specifically the lay shaft. I broke two teeth off the third gear of my SIII box because of fitting 3.54 gears in addition to overdrive and Tdi, and then using 3td overdrive for 30mph zones where 4th was used with original diffs. That was my fault for using the box inappropriately. They can take a Tdi or V8 as long they're driven with respect.

I have Mintex on my 109 (Discovery brake system) and they're good, but the EBC green pads (and their grooved vented discs) transformed my RRC's braking. In fairness, rebuilding the calipers probably helped a lot, but the green stuff pads really work well. Bedding in wasn't much of an effort at all. It seems a minority perspective to like them, though - I can't remember whether it was on this forum or another that almost everyone complained about them crumbling. Mine are in still very good order after over 15k.

Gas dampers always extend by themselves - they're pressurised, which is the whole point of them; the higher pressure stops the oil boiling over. That is why they tend to be shipped with a strap running around the length of them. Standard dampers don't, as they are not pressurised. Never use gas dampers on steering, for this very reason - it's disgraceful how many aftermarket suppliers recommend them. The springs should all be slightly different. It was the same with leaf springs on Series vehicles. it allows for the slightly uneven weight distribution of the vehicle - the engine and gear box are to the left side.

The angle used to be 90 degrees, but LR changed it to 81. I don't know when that happened, but it suggests that 90 should work without too much of a difference in steering rate left and right. It certainly won't be the cause of your problems. With the wheels straight, where does the bottom relay arm point? Do you have a steering damper? If that has broken up inside or has been incorrectly fitted, then that can certainly cause such trouble.

Well done! Gear box rebuild next!

Great. Don't these idiots realise the cost tot he tax payer of their vandalism? They should have all their fingers broken. Ideally with a hammer.

I would not run an engine more than 10 seconds without the coolant system working. If the timing is right, it should run. It'll be terrible if the timing is even one tooth out.

Why would you only fit the rad temporarily? Even if you needed to remove the timing case again, that can be done with rad in place. Not necessarily a bad idea to try it first just with water to check the water pump is OK, but the waterways will rust and scale with pure water, so I wouldn't leave it too long like that (especially with the night time temperatures dropping). But you can run it a very short time without coolant, just not long enough to drive it at all.

Are you sure you're looking at difflock, rather than high/low range?

I have Noise Killer matting under my bonnet. I intensely dislike it - the foil tears easily and looks untidy, but more critically, the glue on one large piece never stuck to the freshly cleaned bonnet underside, and it kept falling off. My concern was it falling into the steering mechanism directly below. I prefer a mechanically fixed blanket like those above, and the pattern panels may suit my needs well at £60odd instead of £240+.

To replace the crank bolt, you only have to remove the crank bolt. It's worth firing it up to make sure everything is working correctly before fitting the winch and drive mechanism, just in case anything does need opening up again - it'd be more of a pain to remove the winch than just swapping the bolt over.

That and the Stansted/London City runway sitins are exactly the sorts of eco-terrorism the police should be using high powered weapons for. These sorts of hypocrites are using and abusing the ecological debate as a smokescreen merely to get away with causing trouble. They are not activists, they are just terrorists. As for selling bling to Dubai and China, there is a downtuirn n the economy down here because of gas and oil prices, but the only models that sell in great numbers here are the L405 and RRS - a fair few expats have Discoverys, but they're too expensive to sell in big numbers and aren't exclusive enough for the rich. The new Discovery and Discovery Sport will sell here, but not in any useful amounts.

It depends on how bad the thread was. Pictures would tell us a lot more, but even they can be deceptive. If 75% or more of the thread was intact, I'd expect it to be fine.

The temperature capacity of that mat will be hundreds of degrees hotter than the sound proofing, so it'd be safe, even if it fell onto a naked turbo. PVA would hold it in place amply and be flexible enough with good penetration of both porous surfaces. You could use PU adhesive. Contact adhesive has the appeal of being instant set, but would come apart when it gets hot.

I'd remove the old shield and bracket only once the new blanket is fitted. As for the noise blanket, trim away the peeling bits of scorched surface lining and then stipple with a mix of PVA glue and black emulsion - duct tape will fall off.

... Because you didn't have an oil seal fail. If you keep the plugs in and have the crank front seal fail, the timing case will get a hell of a lot of oil in it, almost guaranteeing the timing belt will slip and jump a tooth or more and causing subsequent damage to the valves, pitons and rocker gear. If you leave the plug out and have such a seal failure, then the oil will run out the bottom and give you good warning with no further harm.

That's what I'd expect at that price now, Les, but a flick through the classifieds in the magazines shows tatty, unrestored SIIAs and SIIIs with price tags of £7-8k, still on the original chassis and the owner thinking that a recent water pump or master cylinder is a major bonus. It's mad!

The best option is to have the raised breather and fit the plugs for wading and remove them afterwards. But I think the risk of running with wading plugs permanently installed is higher than wading without them (no breather). If you can't remember to fit the plugs before wading, then put a storage bracket on the dash or next to the transfer box lever.

I hope it's the latter - there are some nice ones about that are worth the asking price, but there is a lot of ropey old carp with owners who have no idea of their own bad ownership and how desperately their vehicle needs a small fortune spent on it to make it a reasonable vehicle. Some of them are chancers, most of them are just deluded.