Snagger

That's because of the noise, not the available performance - mine's the same; over 60 and it just gets too damned noisy.So, the ad says it's well looked after and reliable, but then says the rad is leaking (and we know V8s are quite sensitive to that sort of thing), he hasn't bothered to do the "easily fixed" transfer output shaft seal and the tyres are mismatched, so could have some interesting characteristics braking in the wet... And how does someone who doesn't know the difference between a prop shaft and crank shaft properly maintain a vehicle? I'll add my vote to making sure your AA membership is valid before you collect it!

The anttenna itself should not be earthed, but the mounting base should be. The antenna mustn't have electrical contact with the mounting - the rubber mushroom is an excellent isolator as well as a flexible mount. The metal clamp in the top of the mushroom only toushes the antenna, not the base of the mounting, so is electriaclly isolated. Screening as much of the antenna cable as possible is important to avoid interference. The military whip antennas can be cut down once fitted to tune the length with an SWR meter in exactly the same way as a standard CB antenna.

Range Rover Spares (breaker) in Henlow is selling a complete set of black leather RRC seats (I din't know they were done in black - may be they're Westminster grey?) - 07803 915937

I haven't got my RRC here to have a look at at the moment (same door shells), and I can;t remeber if they have any adjustment in that axis - I think the only adjustment is vertical and lateral (in/out to get the panels to line up smoothly). If that's correct, you might have to replace the hinge if its bad, but a metal or plastic shim between the hinge assembly and A-pillar on the lower hinge would work. I'd prefer a shim cut to the shape of the hinge rather than washers as it'll spread the load better; washers might press the A-pillar in around the bolt holes and deform it slightly, unless they're very large diameter and could also allow the hinge to rock on its bolts (which would eventually lead to failure of the hinge, bolts or A-pillar mounting point). Mark the hinge's position on the pillar before loosening any bolts so that you get it's position right when retightening - tape along the edges of the hinge or permanent marker lines will do fine.

The injection pump will suck the fuel from the tank too if the lift pump fails, but it's not very good at it and it's also not good for the injection pump's longevity. It does sound like you have a bad lift pump which is not only failing to do its job but is also allowing air in - it'll be either a split diaphragm inside the pump or a bad joint on the feed line from the tank.

Clean any rust off first, use a zinc rich or red oxide primer, paint and then cover in wax before fitting the diff gaurd and you should have no trouble. It's a also a good reason to use the bolt-on types like QT's, rater than the clamp-on type like Craddocks and Paddocks, as the bolt-ons have large voids that let the mud and water drain out.

double post - sorry!

The main brake warning light (hand brake and "!" ) should go out with the hand brake off only once the system is up to pressure - that red light has four triggers: the hand brake lever; pad wear sensors; the reservoir fluid level sensor; the ABS system pressure. As your pump is not activating, the system cannot be pressurised and so the ECU is receiving a faulty signal that the pressure is up. This is why your ABS (and ETC, if fitted) lights extinguish once the vehicle reached approximately 4mph (the self-test speed for the ABS wheel sensors) - the ABS light should remain lit if the pressure is low, a fault in the wheel sensors or ECU is detected. This false pressure signal is the reason that the relay for the pump is not being activated. If you do have ETC on the rear brakes (as mine does), then the yellow ETC light doesn't need motion to go out, but it still needs ABS system pressure, so again, if that light is going out after start, then there is something wrong with the pressure sensing circuit.If you run a wire from the battery to the control terminal on the relay, the pump should activate, proving the relay and the pump wiring. This will isolate the fault to the pressure switch, its wiring to the ECU, the wiring from the ECU to the relay or the ECU its

It could be wear on the door hinges allowing the door to sag slightly, knocking out the lock alignment. Try lifting the rear edge of the door up and down with it nearly closed.

That's the one.

Boris - that's the fella I had in mind; much better than uprated steering rods as it won't make the more critical and expensive parts take any additional strain. Stuck - I'm inclined to agree with you, but if someone has the spare cash and plans on doing a lot of laning, then a bit of protection could pay off if the track hasn't been driven for a while and the grass is long enough to hide rocks or stumps...

Ah - I thought you had an 88 for some reason...

I was wondering how you got around the spring position problem - the 88s have the rear springs under the chassis rails while 109 have them outboard. I presume from the fact that you haven't moved the axle's spring saddles that you have moved the chassis spring hangers outboard as per a 109. That'd be the only way of fitting a 110's Salisbury axle to an 88 - the diff is slightly further across and has a flat section which acts as the bump stop - there would be no way of attaching the axle to the spring on that side in the standard 88" position.

Rimmer Bros are the big RRC specialist supplier, but Dunsfold LR are very good on price and service where they can supply RRC parts (they seem to specialise more in Series stuff).

My 109 appears to lean to its right when parked on my drive. The drive has a lean at the entrance end, but is flatter near the garage door. The rear springs are stiffer than the front, and I also have an anti-roll bar on the rear but not the front, so the front suspension is much more pliable than the back. This means that the twist of the driveway is taken up almost entirely by the front springs, creating an appearance of a lean which is not actually present. Could you have a similar issue? I'd recommend removing that isolating ring or fitting one to the other side. Whatever you do with suspension or brakes, it must be symmetrical. You could run into legal problems if you have a serious accident, even if the suspension was nothing to do with it.

It sounds to me like the pressure switch on the pump is stuck in the pressurised position, stopping the pump and telling the ECU that all is well - with no ABS pump pressure, the three brake warning lights (aka three amigos - the red "!", amber ETC and red ABS lights) should all be staying on. It's normal for these lights to be on for upto 45 seconds after switching the ignition on while the system pressurises, staying on if the pump takes longer than that even if full pressure is reached. The pressure switch is the cylindrical attachment on the pump body, usually anodised in green, with the lead with the black plug. You may be able to fix it rather than replace it by carefully stripping it down and cleaning up the parts. There is a guide on this forum of how to rebuild the entire pump. Failing that, replacing it with a second hand unit might be the next best option - I don't know if the pressure switch is available separately from the pump, but a complete pump costs £800 (plus taxes) new in the UK, so god knows what it would cost you if you can get one! Have a quick look in the Range Rover or FAQ section of my blog here: http://www.nickslandrover.co.uk/range-rover-brakes-abs-pump-replacement/ . That will give you a bit more information.

Given the location, I'd say it was the vacuum pump or its mounting plate. The rivets securing the outboard end of the pump casing stretch and allow a hairline crack in the powder coating. The pump is operated by a cam on the cam shaft and takes quite a pounding, so any looseness in the mounting bolts could also cause a leak between the pump casing and the block. If the T-seals were leaking, you'd be losing oil through the bell housing - the bell housing to block gasket would need to have failed for bad T-seals to leak externally.

Wasn't there a type of similar system which had a similar steel tank guard plate but with two welded parallel flanges running fore-aft towards its rear, each with two holes, and then a separate hitch carrier that was fitted to the flanges with big clevis pins, so that all that protruded from the tank guard when not using the hitch were the two flanges which didn't affect departure angle or the aesthetic of the back end of the vehicle?

If the back of the 90 is being dragged down so much, doesn't that point to the tow hitch and trailer hitch levels being incompatible or the trailer being loaded with too much nose weight? Helper springs like you have fitted will be as reliable or more so than an air suspension system as it has the redundancy of the coils and the air bags are only taking a small proportion of the weight when in use. They leave the vehicle 100% operational when failed, too. Perhaps you have been unlucky or have used some poor quality helper springs. If helper air bags aren't sufficient and better balancing of the trailer and alignment of the hitch are not possible, then how about fitting the Boge strut from a Range Rover Classic? You'd have to swap the A-frame ball joint with it and fabricate a suitable mounting on the chassis, but that would all be viable and robust.

I have the same concerns. A steering guard will hopefully protect the drag link from any impact in the first place, while the axle protects the track rod to some extent. HD steering rods might resist bending better, but will make the ball joints or PAS box (or steering relay and manual steering box on Series vehicles) take much more punishment. You can steer the vehicle home with bent rods for repair, but you can't drive a vehicle with sheared ball joints or steering box shafts.For very frequent laning or heavier off roading, I'd fit a steering guard up front and one of the full-span track rod guards that fits between the radius arms and connects to a diff guard, retaining the standard rods. I can't remember whether it was a Gwyn Lewis or Southdown product, but someone else should be able to let you know that.

Check the seal of the olive joint at the bottom end of the pipe from lift pump to filter - the vibration wears the olive and creates a leak which is initially just small enough that no fuel leaks out but air leaks in when the engine is off, allowing the fuel in the lines to drain back to the tank. Even then, though, the filter canister should stay full, any leaks only letting the filter mounting drain back to the level of the hole though the banjo bolt in the lift pump pipe top. Check the injector pipes for tightness and cracking too.

Re-read my last post - I think it's your ignition timing.

Why would you want to replace a cheap, reliable and robust system with a complex, costly and unreliable one? I did a trip around the Alps with two air sprung D2s; one ripped a spring from top to bottom and was unable to drive except gently on its bump stops on road to the next camp site until the system was replaced. The owner chose to fit HD coils to avoid future problems. The owners of the other D2 spent the next fortnight worrying about their suspension.

I had dreadful problems getting my 1980 Lightweight to run properly. It had problems like gunged up pipes in the fuel tanks, a leaking lift pump, dirty carb, leaking manifold joints (corrosion of the exhaust manifold) and a distributor fault, but the biggest problem turned out to be the timing - the manual figures don't work as they were for 2star or 4star petrol, and modern unleaded burns very differently. You'll need to set the timing by finding the distributor position which gives the highest idling rpm and then adjusting the carb settings to get the idle rpm right.

The pump should run for 30-45 seconds when you turn the ignition on after it has been stood a few hours. You need to find out if the pump has failed, it is lacking electrical power or the pressure switch on the side of the pump is faulty. The RRC's system only uses hydrostatic pressure from the pedal on two of the four pistons in each front calliper - the other front pistons and all the rear pistons use pressure from the ABS pump. That means that you are currently using only half the front pistons and not getting any rear braking at all.