qwakers

ok this has been a while. i also seem the have been split posting in this thread and http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=82418 that one. so. having built the trayback ive made quite a few modifications to it. first was to stick a 200tdi in it. (see above link, last page) then i broke the brakes (that was fun !) and necessitated a new pair of front calipers disks and master and a few new brake pipes. then i took the rear lift springs off and fitted a longer set of standard rate springs, this gave me my articulation back but the wheels started to hit the tray, so i remade that and it started to look a bit better and less ghetto! after that its been laid up for about 6 months whilst i renovated my new house. that and i blew the radiator and a cv joint, and the winch stopped braking when the power was released. that was another inconvenient time to find that out! so recently i've fitted a new cv, (not ashcrofts unfortunately...) and started the rebuild to get it up to a better standard. first things first was to get the cv sorted, that took me a while to get round to but got done. then i moved the fuel tank to accommodate the rear rad install, the p38 rad i got as a warranty replacement for the 200tdi one is exactly the right size. that was more luck than judgement i can assure you!!! so i connected the oil cooler in and out together, as i decided i'm never going fast enough for it to do anything anyway, stuch the new rad on the cage stays and bobs your uncle. i replumbed the fuel system, and today i've been doing the handbrake and front winch rebuild. no wonder the handbrake wasn't working!!!! the expander was completely seized as was the adjuster. by the way, how do you bleeding well get the boot on the adjuster? i haven't managed yet and i gave it a good half hour! i just need a new ntc6125 handbrake cable and the little clippy things now and i'm good to go. tried to retrofit a 200tdi version as i have the bracket at the transfer box end but no joy, the handbrake end is too different. the winch i couldn't find anything wrong with bar a fair about of old hard grease. so after reading up on the best way to make the freespool operate without having samson pulling on the rope i cleaned it all up and reassembled with oneshot grease. much easier to turn now and should work fine. if this works out ill do the same to the rear winch. but that's about a year newer so isn't in need of a service like the front. and that's about it for now. just need to plumb in the cooling system (already run the solid pipes...) and find a fan cowl that fits. at least i have a garage now but i cant work in it, but at least i can weld in it of i reverse the landy out first pics wise i seem to be missing the entire section where i redid the tray. (which i am now redoing again to move the battery and winch electrics to below the tray.) plans for the future is to remake the cage front half to come inside the wings to give me a narrower track and cut most of the rocksliders off for the same reason. then im going to cut out and remake the rear hoop so the angle of the bottom bends are max 45* rather than 90* (should have done my homework the first time!) that should make it a lot stronger. as you all know, these are neverending projects....... and as this has all been written with the help of a few bevvies, instead of sorting the pics im just going to dump the whole lot here in some sort of chronological order (i hope) and leave you to decipher what goes where.

i agree self levelling compound is just that, throw it down, trowel it out roughly level and it will settle dead level every time. ive used the cheap screwfix stuff loads and it works great.

the ifor standard hitch lock is useless. i defeated one on my dads trailer in less than 5 seconds with a big hammer and punch.(he lost the key.)

put the back wheels up on ramps and then you wont need to drain the oil...

the worst guff ive ever made gas wise is forgetting to switch the argon on whilst welding alu and then wondering why the weld pool keeps disappearing leaving a bloody great hole

ah no we dont care about things like that. my bike used do do something very simiar to this...

i think of all your videos my current favourite is that one

for that money theres a lovely v8 rangerover on here in the for sale section......

i really would pull the turbo off and have a good look at the exhaust impeller for damage. that will tell you if its hot before or after the turbo.

id be concerned about the health of the turbo... im betting its not looking good in there anymore...

you have to make the post public or we cant see it....

or if its a manual just tow start it.

that will work thats just not the way i'd choose to do it.

now ive seen your pic, doing it the way you have you might as well not have bothered with a relay. all you need to do is move the switch to pin 86, leave a wire to earth on pin 87 and move the earths for the lights as close to the lights as you can.

right i cant quite get my head around the way you've wired it but this is how i'd do it. earth from each individual light to a know good earthing point, this could be the light bar itself, the chassis, the body, whatever. the earth doesn't go anywhere near the relay! pin 30 to battery positive through a fuse rated to just above the total current peak draw of the lights. pin 87 to positive terminal(s) on the lights pin 85 to earth pin 86 to +ve ignition feed. this is the wire you would add your switch to. thats it. simples.

i was just asking because the way you did it seem to be a very overcomplicated way of doing it, but respect to you for thinking out of the box!

why not but a caliper piston removal tool? ive removed some seriously stuck pistons with mine takes about 30 secs.

Why didn't you attach it to the inside above the headlining?

from the magnetic plug i took out of the last motorcycle i scrapped.... quite a few. and i suspect the'd be a few more in a old oilburner......

Why don't you ask the police if it's on the stolen register ? Seems to me that a crim wouldn't use their ow defender to go out finding other trucks to nick

Whereas I leave my disco trayback unlocked with the key in the ignition. It's all about where it's kept.

no thats the hole top dead center of that pic.

looks like one of the holes for the heatshield mounting studs to me.

or Bummer (Budget Hummer)