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qwakers

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Everything posted by qwakers

  1. because its leaking. typical britpart.
  2. has anyone got a old v8 radiator kicking around? it needs to be in working order but other than that anything considered. old disco or defender heck id even consider looking at a freelander petrol rad. im trying to do a rear mounted rad on the cheap. thanks guys n gals. edit just realised ive put this in the wrong place. could a mod move? ta.
  3. yeha i dont go on the road with it so thats not a issue. ended up buying a bearmach cv for it. if i break it ill rethink...
  4. the only issue with that is im already working 96 hrs odd a week.
  5. i had that problem recently. turned out the belt was about 2mm too short....
  6. so my challenge disco blew a cv last time i used it (and has ben sitting for ages since,but i digress) i was thinking about CV strength and what the best route would be, barring ashcrofts. i dont have that sort of money, then i thought, would it be possible to fit uj's in place of the cv, and would it be stronger. if not, whats the best cv for a small budget.....?
  7. i thought the rrc was a different pcd?
  8. i would also recommend looking at adrian flux. ive got my 7.5tonner insured with them at 1/3 of the price of nfu and no one else will touch it....
  9. we do, they're even called the Yellow Pages. spooky.
  10. blocked or otherwise degraded rad. theres more than one reason for a rad to fail to perform its desired function, my p38 for instance the rad was completely free flowing (confirmed when i took the end tanks off and weighed it in) but the truck was overheating, was in the end a rotten core.
  11. try removing the stop solenoid plunger first...
  12. just out of curiosity, why would you want to put it back to drums?
  13. and anyone stupid enough to do that deserves the blocked radiator and heater matrix that most likely will be the end result.....
  14. a local tyre pace that i USED too use plugs tyres with a kit like this as a permanent repair. i took a tyre in for a repair and he came out with this kit.i then promptly drove off...
  15. easist way of finding out is a compression test. but yes, it is possible.
  16. +1 the only one i ever fitted myself cracked.....
  17. your car is a monocoque. the bits that are bent are part of the chassis. bodging it is out of the question unless you want your family to die if someone runs into the back of you. as i said the only possible safe repair is ti get it on a hydraulic jig and have it pulled straight.
  18. that would need putting on a jig to fix even if it can be done, and is definitely a mot failure. i really wouldn't consider towing with it.
  19. ive got a full set of alloy nuts if anyone wants them for postage and beer. or even better send me a set of steel nuts....
  20. when you've got the magnetic pickup tool give it a poke down the hole you lost the bit of dowl down before you take out the core plug. you may find it without going to all that trouble....
  21. the 2 pictures on here explain how its wired. http://www.hardworkingtrucks.com/winding-road/
  22. if its been overfilled by that much your going to have leaks from every seal imaginable, however before getting carried away replacing them all, reduce the oil level and use the truck for a bit. then give it a clean and you'll probably find the majority have stopped leaking....
  23. it could be the bias valve. certainly cheaper to replace than the calipers and i wouldn't bother machining the disks.
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