qwakers

and etch priming is often done wrong. if you put a thick coat of etch on it wont do its job. a very light even coat is all you need, then normal primer on top of that.

they will either require a engineers report or a receipt for the engine. hint, it cost nothing to search companies house for bankrupt businesses and create a suitable receipt..

use weld through primer.

so cool. me want. and as you say, make it road legal and drive it to work :-)

my brand new expander failed after 1dunking in a river. carp design. imfitted a xbrake.

another good candidate for microsquirt maybe?

my trayback wont go above 1800 rpm without my facet plugged in, my mech lift pump is buggered and my fuel tank is sat on top of the tubular crossmember so not that far off standard. there are defiantly no leaks, so im thinking my injection pump is a bit worn.

if the jump lead you used to test was too small itd turn over slowly. clean or replace the engine and chassis earth and try again.

does the battery light on the dash come on when ign is turned on and (in this case) stay on when started or go off once started? iirc the alternator gets its exciter current though the light on the dash so if that bulb has blown or the wire broken the alternator wont produce any current... or the alternator is buggered. either works for me

i would expect as long as the bell housing is the same a discovery v8 one would fit. possibly a 200tdi one too. (in fact i think theyre the same. http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/211514/0/clutch_slave_cylinder_range_rover_classic___discovery_1 maybe? at the price its gotta be worth a punt. as for master, i have no idea,

i see no reason why a lr part wouldnt fit.

are we going to have another addition to the epic mr bump thread?

and if youre like me when i do that... when you DO need it you wont be able to remember where you put it

sticking caliper.

i feel i must side with the dealer too. i warrant the IT work i do, any kit i sell for 1 year and any work completed for a month to cover any mistakes i might have made. once its out of warrenty, tough, im not a charity. this has served me well and id expect the same from anyone i do business with. including car dealers.

your not that far from me either and if i had the space id do it for you

if the light stays on when started but goes out after 5mph has been reached... thats normal operation and it should pass...

well time has told. not a drip on the ground after driving it to the dealership and back to get some recall work done. all is good.

i did a weld like that once..... then i woke up.

but quite useful on a winch challenge truck to get better rampover angles and to be able to fit bigger tyres so you dont bottom out in ruts all the time....

sorry to hear it didnt work out. at least you tried the dream, most dont have the balls to try, me included. cant help with importing the disco back but i wouldnt think it'd be too hard.

you are talking about land rover you know...

got it in one mate. :-)

ok so not a landrover but im sure youll forgive me.... spent this morning sorting a large oil leak on my kia sorento. no recently i rebuilt this engine for a snapped cam chain. ever since ive had a large oil leak from the front of the engine. i thought it was the crank oil seal so i replaced it. the leak got worse. so today i took a couple of pictures with my endoscope (visiability is limited...) and this is what i saw... oops.... one new seal fitted in the daylight this time... and all seems to be well. time will tell..

i just use a lenght of wire reinforced silicone flexi hose for mine....