Stevie D

If it's that wet look for the tell tale rust streaks, the most likely culprits have been mentioned above by the guys.... There's also a weld / lack of weld on a join at the bottom corner(s) of the windscreen, often filled with dum dum puty at the factory - it dries out and cracks allowing water in. Only visable with the dash out so leave that until all the others have been eliminated. I've also found the seam sealer cracked in behind the outer wing, letting water in and leading to the corrosion in the seam as mentioned by Particle. The water runs off the windscreen and into the scuttle panle, out through the drain hole and straight into the seam. Other one id the seal around the wirning loom letting water in from the engine bay / or the join imediatley below this rusted out. Have fun. Get the soggy stuff out first and all should be obvious. Steve

Lots on that well known internet auction site lol.... Steve

Lots here just across the pond in Ireland!

A nice example of a Disco - nice 5 bar chequer plate job... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/blue-land-rover-discovery-300-tdi-m-reg-/171003208350?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item27d095e29e

I'd assume it's been damaged or something? Similar construction to the 200/300 shells and they're spot welded to to body shell along the gutter line. Would like to see it in person before I parted with any cash. HTH Steve

Many Thanks will give Chris a call to see what he has / recommends etc! Steve

I'd don't want to opena a big can of worms - so only asking if anybody has used this or is it not suitable? Anybody tried this stuff? Any good or waste of cash? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/140894037514?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 I need to replace my steel wire cable on the disco, using an x9 with an uprated motor, no winch callanges or anything like that just to odd bit of recovcery out of sticky situations etc. I'm a synthetic virgin lol. Unfortunatley don't have the budget for the normaly recomended bow rope or the dyneema.I know buy once and all that - but monies tight and I need to buy carefully. I know of a guy that is using this - but he's using it with a suk and not sure if it's man enough for the disco's weight. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170896429732?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Thanks, Steve

I'll watch with interest - I've a much bigger ex mod 24v version with a 5.5hp 4 stroke engine, but it's too big for proper portable use - think full size 240v genny - i us it for my off grid log cabin to supplement wind power. i'd passed up on a much smaller 12v kubota version . It has a manual control circuit rather than an auto control circuit - being mod it has the circuit engraved onto the plate - i can try to dig it out and get a photo if you're interested. Mine will also struggle to charge a pair of 12v 110ah batteries that are fully discharged. Steve

I've had reasonable succes with bearmarch rough track - couldn't afford the Koni's at the time, quite soft but got rid of the excess bounce effect your talking about - similar use as you describe. Lost interest in the procomps etc - kept busting them on articulation / compression on tracks. The ruff tracks lasted a good few years with the same treatment / spring set-up. I think it had either the bearmach or britpart heavy duty 2" lift fitted from memory. Steve

Anything that I've seen from QT has been excellent before - haven't seen these in the flesh though I do have thier diff guards fitted without any complaints. Think the company was started by enthusiasts and developed fom there. Steve

lol I think your right - but I'm bound to warp the roof with too much heat or end up with a few pinholes in the weld bead that would leak as well. Don't want to go down the painting route or expense either. Anyways I like the light in the extra light in the disco with them. Thanks, for all the suggestions folks - the caravan stuff is called butyl rubber sealant afaik. I've used that in a roll form to seal the rear qtr panels back on again - thought they were sure to need taken off again so didn't want to use too much PU based stuffthere. I'll nip over to the autofactors / paint supplier shortly and see what they recomend too and then get a tube of something suitable. I'll let you know what I end up doing and then in a month or two see if it leaks when we get the summer showers. Cheers Steve

I'm putting the 300TDi Disco back togther having finished the welding to what seemed like the entire bottom 3" of the body and would like it to last for a few years. With that in mind I'm going to replace the sunroof glass seals this weekend, and remove the frames to seal them again in a bit to get rid of a few drips. What should I seal them with? Windscreen sealant - the old type for rubber seals - I belive it stays soft / doesn't set? Sikaflex / polyeuretheane sealant - seam sealer type stuff - my favourite option? Traditional silicone type stuff - as avocated by some of the ebay vendors to bed the actual glass seal with? What would you recommend. I think land rover used a very thin paper seal... Cheers Steve

Unlike the 300 series - They're bonded in - similar to the front windscreen, so I guess bribing an autoglass guy to do it might be a good idea, they'll have the gear to ensure it is done properly.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the Italian police used it in their fleet of defenders for this reason. Nice option and well executed for the lightweight. Had one in a 220 in my boy racer days, less willing to rev but much more torque than the honda engined 216 gti it replaced. Steve

Capilary action seems to take place around the gutter areaa and the back door! I found rot on the inside of mine here below the safari / skylight windows in the rear qtrs. It wasn't the window seals. Have got as much of the old sealant off and replaced with fresh polyurethene stuff, but think I'll go down the route of the captain trolley stuff too, it's only a few £ for a bottle. Steve

Is it not the case with these fitted that you loose the main beam or is there low / high beam versions now?

I had a 10 x 5.5' TT105 - it was quite a bit higher to the load bed, 3-4" than the standard IW units. Had the steel ramps - as said they were heavy but robust, carried all sorts of things on it, the 90 was tight, but with the sides off and ladder rack off it was doable, Even had a 110 rolling chassis and pushing it with a David Brown 996 tractor once, was a bit top heavy but managed well. Good trailer but heavy. Steve

I'll not bother wasting cash with the chequer plate then, not fussed on the look of it really on the disco - and just access the rack from the back end. Cheers

Was wondering as I start to reassemble the disco if the bonnet would be strong enough to stand on like I was acustomed to doing wiith the 110 to put stuff onto the rack, put up the roof tent etc or am I just going to bend it / make it look like a beat up old wreck. Are the 2mm chequer plates providing enough structural strenght or just for looks? I'm no lightweight lol... Steve

If it's the truck I think Matts bought - the door's were stripped , frames galved etc - not to say that the galvanic corrosion won't be an issue eventually. I'd recommend a good wax for the chassis and any other cavities, like doors, cross members etc. Dinitrol is apparently very good. Good luck with the new truck ! Steve

Have a look here - shows a pair....or more depending on the chassis no. http://lrparts.net.ru/

You really aren't the luckiest of people are you? You need ATF Dexron IID afaik. Not well up on the Auto's but what you've wiped off the dipstick looks really dirty - it sould be bright red! Cosider changing it again after a few days - the detergents may lossen a lot of carp, effectively blocking up the valves again. Steve

One of my trailers does the same thing empty or loaded - it's got a very long extended drawbar to enable me to carry canadian canoe on the twin ladder racks. It's on those indespension units too - these were new a few years ago, and are 750kgs units. They're supposed to be self damping? It was running 13" wheels unit last year - they were badly perished, so went to 14" as they were available. Although the tyres were new on a set of rims, I beleive they are the problem, with weak sidewalls, I'll go to reinforced 'C' rated tyres next. Nice splitter btw. Was going to make a small trailer frame to mount my tractor 3 point unit onto to make it a bit more flexible. Steve

Thanks guys - I'll give it a try then. Micro ballasts it is, think there's a reasonable abount of room in the enclosure behind the reflector. Cheers. Steve

Had crossed my mind - what cleans better, diesel, parrifin, kerosene? Cheer Steve